Gonna try this one last time.
Warning: This was the hardest speaker change out I have ever done in over 20 cars that I have done. You must not be faint of heart and must have at least average jury-rigging skills to do this successfully.
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This is the right front door before we start
![Image]()
First step is to remove the outer door handle trim. See the small slot in the picture above, put a small screwdriver in there and pry the trim toward you. Once it starts to come pull the bottom toward you first and then swing it up until it pops off. When you put it back on you will have to put the top together first then bring the bottom down or it will not go back together.
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The picture above shows the door handle with the outer trim removed.
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In the above picture see the three 10mm recessed bolts, remove them.
![Image]()
Next, you have to remove the small trim panel behind the door lever to access the hidden screw there. Put your small screwdriver in between the door lock button and the trim and sorta pry it toward you. It pops out real easy from that direction
Next, feel at bottom of the door trim. No Picture for these next steps. There is a small slot at the very bottom and middle. Place a padded screwdriver there and pull out. You will hear the little #$#ing plastic connectors start popping. Keep pulling the door panel out and up until they all pop free and the panel is hanging from the window sill. Lay on the ground, shine light up in between the panel and door and disconnect the wire clip to the window control.
Next lift the door panel free of the window seal. Reach behind and disconnect the tweeter wire and at the back or outer end of the door lever wires, there is a small little pinch clamp. Pinch that and those lever and lock cables come free. The panel can now be set aside for now.
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Above you can see the old speaker. As you can see it is riveted in place.
![Image]()
Un-clip wire from the speaker and drill out rivets. You then have a blank speaker hole as above. You could easily put a 6 3/4 speaker there. Toss the old speaker, it is crap.
![Image]()
My choice of new speakers. Infinity sounds really nice and will not break your wallet. I got all these at Sonic Electronix for less than $200.
![Image]()
Old Speaker and new speaker backs. Look at the difference in magnets
![Image]()
Old and new speaker fronts
![Image]()
On all the speakers I cut the plugs off, spliced, and soldered extensions on. I soldered the wires to the new speakers.
![Image]()
Above you can see the adapters for new speakers that come with speakers. WARNING there is only about 1 3/4 inch depth from door panel to window. These speakers are 1 and 3/4 inch depth. Using the adapter and foam on both sides gives you about 3/8 inch clearance. KNOW YOUR CLEARANCE or you can damage the window or speaker or both.
![Image]()
Above is the new speaker in place. If these pictures post part 2 will be on what I did to replace tweeters.
Picking up where I left off. Still working on the right front door will show how I changed out the tweeter.
![Image]()
Above you can see the back of the door panel. The tweeter basket is held in by two Phillips head screws. Remove the two screws and it will hang free.
![Image]()
Then remove the tweeter wire from the clips on the door. There are 4 little plastic tabs holding the old tweeter in the basket. Using a jeweler's screwdriver gently pry those tabs up so the tweeter will slide out.
![Image]()
Above you can see the old tweeter and the basket that I re-used.
![Image]()
Above is the old tweeter, new tweeter, and basket
![Image]()
Above is a close-up of the new tweeter, the old basket, and the crossover for the new tweeter. The new one-inch tweeter fits in the basket perfectly. The little tabs will not hold it in. I used a trick I have used in the past. I used a hot glue gun and high temp glue and just put a bead all the way around the back of the tweeter/basket. Holds it like a charm. You cannot pry it out. If you ever blow a tweeter then use a razor knife to cut glue off and you can re-use the basket again. You could epoxy or use regular glue but that would mean you could never use the basket again. Screw the basket back on the door panel. There is plenty of room for the crossover behind the panel so just put it where you want. I hot glued it to metal to keep it from rattling. Do not have pictures of that cause was having to hold the panel and glue it at the same time. Tried but could not hold the camera in my teeth.
Hold the door panel, attach the tweeter connector, pop the lock/lever mechanism back on and hang the door from the window sill. Reach under the panel and hook the window wire clip back. Turn the start switch on and roll the window up and down. Hopefully, the window will clear your new speaker. Note.....you cannot roll the window down from the driver's door unless the electrical clip is put back on the panel.
If your window clears, then reverse the removal process to put it back together. Start at the top and tap on the door to reset all, those %$&#ing plastic tabs. Put the hidden screw back in behind the door lever, and replace the 3 recessed bolts. Put the outer handle cover back on. Remember to put the top of the handle tab together first, press it together and tap to reset all the tabs.
Woot Your first door is done.
Part three will cover the driver's door and rear door
This part covers the driver's door and the right rear door. The driver's door is just like the right door except there are two hidden screws and two wire clips that have to be removed (window and mirror controls). The driver's door has a hidden screw, up behind the lever and another one inside the grip on the door. There is a little tab you have to pry up to get at it. Be very careful with that tab. It has a long tail that can break if you rough handle it. You can see the second hidden screw below.
![Image]()
Other than the two wire clips and the second hidden screw it is just like the other side.
The right rear door has no outer handle trim to pull off. There is a hidden screw inside the handle like on the driver's door and behind the little triangle piece at the rear of the window. That little triangle piece just pops off like the front one and is no issue to pop back on.
![Image]()
Remove the rear door panel just like the front one after you remove the Phillips head screws. Start at the bottom, pry toward you till it hangs from the window sill, reach behind and remove the window control wire, and just lift it off. Above is what you see. Again, the speaker is riveted in.
![Image]()
Above is a close-up of the rear door with old speaker.
![Image]()
Rear door with new adapter in place. Again, only about 1 3/4 inch between the window when down and the door panel. You will need shallow-mount speakers or an adapter to give some space.
![Image]()
My soldered-in wire splice for new speakers. I always solder in new speakers, you could use clips if you want but I was told once that since the back of speakers is exposed to high humidity in the door that the clips can corrode and you do not get as good a connection. I have actually seen this so I always solder now.
Replace the door panel in reverse order. That right rear door is really the easiest.
Part # 4 will be the dash center speaker.
This part covers the center dash speaker. Advise you to cover your dash with towels around the speaker grill so you do not accidentally scratch or burn your dash if you solder the speaker in.
Use a small padded screwdriver and go around the edge, pry up the speaker grill. Do not do all of one side first or you might break the tabs on the grill. Go around the edges and incrementally pry it up.
![Image]()
The next two pictures are taken through the windshield so not of good quality. As you can see speaker bracket is held in with two Phillips Head screws. You will need a shorty Phillips driver to get them out as the dash is very low.
![Image]()
Remove the screws, lift the speaker, and disconnect the wire and you have a hole in the dash as above. Save this speaker, you can re-use the metal bracket part. Do not damage the dust screen either as you can re-use it also.
![Image]()
Above is the old speaker and my new one. Note how small the bracket is on the new one. It would fall through the hole in the dash even though the speaker itself is the same size. First, remove the old dust screen gently so you can reuse it. I cut the magnet away from the actual bracket by cutting all those tabs with tin snips. Then I smooth out sharp edges with a small grinder and now I have the original top part of the bracket to re-use.
![Image]()
Above is my modded bracket and my new speaker.
![Image]()
Another view above
![Image]()
Above you can see I drilled two holes and mounted my new speaker in the old modified bracket. The old dust screen is beside the new mounted speaker.
![Image]()
Above you can see the new speaker in the old modded bracket. I hot glued the old dust screen back on the new speaker to keep dust out of the speaker.
Easy now...just do a wire extension, attach to the new speaker and screw back in the dash. Tap the grill back down and it is done. The new center speaker makes the car bitches voice sound much younger......I think I could fall in love with her.
This ends part #4. Now comes the part to separate the men from the boys.....The left rear speaker in part #5
Okay....here we go. I saved the best (not) for last. Part #5 will separate the men from the boys. Changing the left rear speaker..... I will tell you upfront. This is not easy. You have to remove the whole bottom part of your rear seat and take it out of the car to do this.
Are you ready.....two shots of tequila are recommended at this time....here we go.
Removing seat bottom from the car:
![Image]()
Fold your back seats down. Under the seat right in middle is a 12mm bolt that holds down a ....will call it a U-catch....In the picture above you can see mine are rusty.....now why are they rusty when nothing else in the car is rusty....hmmm. Anyway remove the bolt on each side and the U-catch that holds the back of the rear seat bottom is free.
Fold the seat back up. Reach in the car and with a little jerk pull up on the left side of the seat bottom. You will feel the plastic retainer pop free...repeat on the right side and the whole seat bottom will now lift up and you can pull it out of the car. I was physically nauseated at this point. From being nervous I was ruining the seat or from the Tequila, I do not know.
![Image]()
Above see the back seat removed.
![Image]()
Above see the very bottom of the left panel. There is a little tab with a Phillips head screw remove it.
![Image]()
As seen above, remove the plastic trim on the driver's side door beside the seat by starting at the front and popping the tabs free.
![Image]()
Then as seen above.....Start at the lower front left edge and start popping the left panel free working your way back and up. I did not completely remove this panel as it would require removing all of the back seat. When you pop it out there is room to work behind it.
![Image]()
View of the panel popped free from the rear.
![Image]()
View of the old speaker in its bracket attached to the car. As you can see if you pull the panel toward you there is room to work without totally removing the panel.
![Image]()
Above is the old speaker in the bracket removed from the car.
![Image]()
Above is my new speaker in the old bracket. Redo your wiring and re-install the bracket. Replace everything in reverse order and .............yes you are done!!!!!
Now for the good part. Park the car in shade, roll up the windows, 2 more shots of Tequila....and the test. There is one song that is better than any other for testing a stereo system. With all the acoustic instruments, bass, and percussion it is an exquisite test. Get a copy of the Acoustic version of the Eagles' "Hotel California" from their "Hell Freezes Over CD" Put that in, close your eyes, and let it play. Damn, that sounds so much better than the stock speakers...you cannot imagine. Need to do that subwoofer soon though.
I hope this helps some of you in your own replacement project. The stock speakers really are not very good. Good Luck.
![Image]()
Wife took this of me passed out in my V after the speaker change. I was celebrating with the music and the rest of the Tequila......
Warning: This was the hardest speaker change out I have ever done in over 20 cars that I have done. You must not be faint of heart and must have at least average jury-rigging skills to do this successfully.
This is the right front door before we start
First step is to remove the outer door handle trim. See the small slot in the picture above, put a small screwdriver in there and pry the trim toward you. Once it starts to come pull the bottom toward you first and then swing it up until it pops off. When you put it back on you will have to put the top together first then bring the bottom down or it will not go back together.
The picture above shows the door handle with the outer trim removed.
In the above picture see the three 10mm recessed bolts, remove them.
Next, you have to remove the small trim panel behind the door lever to access the hidden screw there. Put your small screwdriver in between the door lock button and the trim and sorta pry it toward you. It pops out real easy from that direction
Next, feel at bottom of the door trim. No Picture for these next steps. There is a small slot at the very bottom and middle. Place a padded screwdriver there and pull out. You will hear the little #$#ing plastic connectors start popping. Keep pulling the door panel out and up until they all pop free and the panel is hanging from the window sill. Lay on the ground, shine light up in between the panel and door and disconnect the wire clip to the window control.
Next lift the door panel free of the window seal. Reach behind and disconnect the tweeter wire and at the back or outer end of the door lever wires, there is a small little pinch clamp. Pinch that and those lever and lock cables come free. The panel can now be set aside for now.
Above you can see the old speaker. As you can see it is riveted in place.
Un-clip wire from the speaker and drill out rivets. You then have a blank speaker hole as above. You could easily put a 6 3/4 speaker there. Toss the old speaker, it is crap.
My choice of new speakers. Infinity sounds really nice and will not break your wallet. I got all these at Sonic Electronix for less than $200.
Old Speaker and new speaker backs. Look at the difference in magnets
Old and new speaker fronts
On all the speakers I cut the plugs off, spliced, and soldered extensions on. I soldered the wires to the new speakers.
Above you can see the adapters for new speakers that come with speakers. WARNING there is only about 1 3/4 inch depth from door panel to window. These speakers are 1 and 3/4 inch depth. Using the adapter and foam on both sides gives you about 3/8 inch clearance. KNOW YOUR CLEARANCE or you can damage the window or speaker or both.
Above is the new speaker in place. If these pictures post part 2 will be on what I did to replace tweeters.
Picking up where I left off. Still working on the right front door will show how I changed out the tweeter.
Above you can see the back of the door panel. The tweeter basket is held in by two Phillips head screws. Remove the two screws and it will hang free.
Then remove the tweeter wire from the clips on the door. There are 4 little plastic tabs holding the old tweeter in the basket. Using a jeweler's screwdriver gently pry those tabs up so the tweeter will slide out.
Above you can see the old tweeter and the basket that I re-used.
Above is the old tweeter, new tweeter, and basket
Above is a close-up of the new tweeter, the old basket, and the crossover for the new tweeter. The new one-inch tweeter fits in the basket perfectly. The little tabs will not hold it in. I used a trick I have used in the past. I used a hot glue gun and high temp glue and just put a bead all the way around the back of the tweeter/basket. Holds it like a charm. You cannot pry it out. If you ever blow a tweeter then use a razor knife to cut glue off and you can re-use the basket again. You could epoxy or use regular glue but that would mean you could never use the basket again. Screw the basket back on the door panel. There is plenty of room for the crossover behind the panel so just put it where you want. I hot glued it to metal to keep it from rattling. Do not have pictures of that cause was having to hold the panel and glue it at the same time. Tried but could not hold the camera in my teeth.
Hold the door panel, attach the tweeter connector, pop the lock/lever mechanism back on and hang the door from the window sill. Reach under the panel and hook the window wire clip back. Turn the start switch on and roll the window up and down. Hopefully, the window will clear your new speaker. Note.....you cannot roll the window down from the driver's door unless the electrical clip is put back on the panel.
If your window clears, then reverse the removal process to put it back together. Start at the top and tap on the door to reset all, those %$&#ing plastic tabs. Put the hidden screw back in behind the door lever, and replace the 3 recessed bolts. Put the outer handle cover back on. Remember to put the top of the handle tab together first, press it together and tap to reset all the tabs.
Woot
Your first door is done.Part three will cover the driver's door and rear door
This part covers the driver's door and the right rear door. The driver's door is just like the right door except there are two hidden screws and two wire clips that have to be removed (window and mirror controls). The driver's door has a hidden screw, up behind the lever and another one inside the grip on the door. There is a little tab you have to pry up to get at it. Be very careful with that tab. It has a long tail that can break if you rough handle it. You can see the second hidden screw below.
Other than the two wire clips and the second hidden screw it is just like the other side.
The right rear door has no outer handle trim to pull off. There is a hidden screw inside the handle like on the driver's door and behind the little triangle piece at the rear of the window. That little triangle piece just pops off like the front one and is no issue to pop back on.
Remove the rear door panel just like the front one after you remove the Phillips head screws. Start at the bottom, pry toward you till it hangs from the window sill, reach behind and remove the window control wire, and just lift it off. Above is what you see. Again, the speaker is riveted in.
Above is a close-up of the rear door with old speaker.
Rear door with new adapter in place. Again, only about 1 3/4 inch between the window when down and the door panel. You will need shallow-mount speakers or an adapter to give some space.
My soldered-in wire splice for new speakers. I always solder in new speakers, you could use clips if you want but I was told once that since the back of speakers is exposed to high humidity in the door that the clips can corrode and you do not get as good a connection. I have actually seen this so I always solder now.
Replace the door panel in reverse order. That right rear door is really the easiest.
Part # 4 will be the dash center speaker.
This part covers the center dash speaker. Advise you to cover your dash with towels around the speaker grill so you do not accidentally scratch or burn your dash if you solder the speaker in.
Use a small padded screwdriver and go around the edge, pry up the speaker grill. Do not do all of one side first or you might break the tabs on the grill. Go around the edges and incrementally pry it up.
The next two pictures are taken through the windshield so not of good quality. As you can see speaker bracket is held in with two Phillips Head screws. You will need a shorty Phillips driver to get them out as the dash is very low.
Remove the screws, lift the speaker, and disconnect the wire and you have a hole in the dash as above. Save this speaker, you can re-use the metal bracket part. Do not damage the dust screen either as you can re-use it also.
Above is the old speaker and my new one. Note how small the bracket is on the new one. It would fall through the hole in the dash even though the speaker itself is the same size. First, remove the old dust screen gently so you can reuse it. I cut the magnet away from the actual bracket by cutting all those tabs with tin snips. Then I smooth out sharp edges with a small grinder and now I have the original top part of the bracket to re-use.
Above is my modded bracket and my new speaker.
Another view above
Above you can see I drilled two holes and mounted my new speaker in the old modified bracket. The old dust screen is beside the new mounted speaker.
Above you can see the new speaker in the old modded bracket. I hot glued the old dust screen back on the new speaker to keep dust out of the speaker.
Easy now...just do a wire extension, attach to the new speaker and screw back in the dash. Tap the grill back down and it is done. The new center speaker makes the car bitches voice sound much younger......I think I could fall in love with her.
This ends part #4. Now comes the part to separate the men from the boys.....The left rear speaker in part #5
Okay....here we go. I saved the best (not) for last. Part #5 will separate the men from the boys. Changing the left rear speaker..... I will tell you upfront. This is not easy. You have to remove the whole bottom part of your rear seat and take it out of the car to do this.
Are you ready.....two shots of tequila are recommended at this time....here we go.
Removing seat bottom from the car:
Fold your back seats down. Under the seat right in middle is a 12mm bolt that holds down a ....will call it a U-catch....In the picture above you can see mine are rusty.....now why are they rusty when nothing else in the car is rusty....hmmm. Anyway remove the bolt on each side and the U-catch that holds the back of the rear seat bottom is free.
Fold the seat back up. Reach in the car and with a little jerk pull up on the left side of the seat bottom. You will feel the plastic retainer pop free...repeat on the right side and the whole seat bottom will now lift up and you can pull it out of the car. I was physically nauseated at this point. From being nervous I was ruining the seat or from the Tequila, I do not know.
Above see the back seat removed.
Above see the very bottom of the left panel. There is a little tab with a Phillips head screw remove it.
As seen above, remove the plastic trim on the driver's side door beside the seat by starting at the front and popping the tabs free.
Then as seen above.....Start at the lower front left edge and start popping the left panel free working your way back and up. I did not completely remove this panel as it would require removing all of the back seat. When you pop it out there is room to work behind it.
View of the panel popped free from the rear.
View of the old speaker in its bracket attached to the car. As you can see if you pull the panel toward you there is room to work without totally removing the panel.
Above is the old speaker in the bracket removed from the car.
Above is my new speaker in the old bracket. Redo your wiring and re-install the bracket. Replace everything in reverse order and .............yes you are done!!!!!
Now for the good part. Park the car in shade, roll up the windows, 2 more shots of Tequila....and the test. There is one song that is better than any other for testing a stereo system. With all the acoustic instruments, bass, and percussion it is an exquisite test. Get a copy of the Acoustic version of the Eagles' "Hotel California" from their "Hell Freezes Over CD" Put that in, close your eyes, and let it play. Damn, that sounds so much better than the stock speakers...you cannot imagine. Need to do that subwoofer soon though.
I hope this helps some of you in your own replacement project. The stock speakers really are not very good. Good Luck.
Wife took this of me passed out in my V after the speaker change. I was celebrating with the music and the rest of the Tequila......
