A torque wrench would be the most accurate and safest. But, 99% of the time, most dealers and wheel shops just use the impact guns to re-install the lugs. You can ask them to use a torque wrench, I do anyway. Or, if you have your own or swap your own wheels, re-check the lugs yourself.

 

I NEVER install any wheels unless I can torque them to proper specs. But that's just me and I'm @n@l. I set my V wheels to 80 lb ft star criss-cross and always retorque 10-20 miles later.

 

Torquing is easy and the best way to go by far.

 

I've changed more wheels than I can count and have never used a torque wrench and never had an issue.

 

This is not a time to be trolling smellypanda, you better be serious.

 

I've had idiots put on my wheels with an impact wrench and paid the price with warped rotors. To be safe always have them torqued or do it yourself.

 

I didn't used to have any issues when it came to hand tightening. Then one day, I was removing the the wheels to install new brakes and broke a wheel stud in half. I had over-tightened them, apparently. Or at least that one. So, from then on, I've always used a torque wrench if possible. 80 lb. ft. is normally about right, but since my wheels are so heavy, I go with 100. No problems since.

 

The correct torque value is derived from the size of the lug and the make-up of the lug mating surface (on the wheel) on passenger cars. Some aluminum wheels have steel inserts in the lug holes and some don't. Some are ball seat, some are cone seat, and some are plain flat seat. Typically the ball seat and cone seat don't need quite as much torque as the flat seat lugnuts. Also, the rims with steel inserts can typically take more torque. On our Velosters you shouldn't ever need any more than 80 lb ft of torque and you'll be just fine. Since the wheels are hub-centric, it's always good practice to retorque them after the initial drive to make sure they are seated in their hub center. This will minimize vibration and ensure your lugs don't work their way free in time. Yes, I'm very @n@l when it comes to my wheels because I've had a few mishaps in times past when I didn't torque them.

 

85# is pretty typical. I used 100 on my Jeep.
Using only an impact driver can be dangerous. I used a 600# impact but still had movement with a torque wrench to get to 100#.
I had lugs loosen in my older YJ on a long highway trip because I didn't check the torque manually.
A torque wrench is cheap insurance.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using AutoGuide.Com Free App

 

Always used a TQ Wrench set to 80lbs, no worries.

 

After on-off-on-off-on-off of Autocross and Rallycross (and a few broken lugs, and handfuls of stripped lugnuts), I've settled on 70lb-ft (periodically cleaned and oiled) with an S|K 20-150lb-range torque-wrench on my Bullitt and former-Accent. I believe the "spec" was 95 on the B, 85 on the Accent - but that torque was established by the Factory Engineers with the thinking that nobody would ever mess with them for a year or two (between sets of tires): the wheels are barely on there a week during racing-season (and only hours for the race).

It'll likely be the same on the Velo, once I get a few sets of wheels and start in with the tire-changing again....

 

These answers are all over the map, and not one of them have any link suggesting it's source. There is also a BIG difference between ft-lbs and NM which I haven't seen above. Since this is a foreign car, I bet the torque is measured in NM and not ft-lbs. Don't know the #, but beware of under-torquing for obvious reasons or overtorquing because you'll warp your rotors. Look in manual or call dealer service manager...

 

I have 4 Japanese vehicles, and every one of the factory service manuals on them refers to ft-lbs
The better manuals of course reference both, and most clicker type wrenches contain both scales

 

Most cars today are designed with lightness in mind, it helps performance and MPG, the first of course was what motivated the great Colin Chapman. With that being said, the primary thing holding the rotor in place is the wheel. If a wheel is put on with big differences in torque it can aid in rotor warping, especially if it is a car that is pushed to its limit, i.e. subjected to heat extremes.

I for one cannot fathom putting a wheel on without using a torque wrench. For wheels the basic clicker type torque wrench is fine, for finer things like engine work the beam type is more precise, but that precision is a tad overkill on wheels in my book.

A very decent clicker type torque wrench can be bought at Sears, the Craftsman is a good, cost effective option for many people. Manufacturers clearly spec the proper torque settings and I typically go by them, just adding a few extra pounds to compensate for any margins in the tool itself.

If someone wants to really maintain their vehicle, a torque wrench is a must, and please, never use that wrench to loosen the lugs, it's just not designed for that backwards load.

I know squat about this plasti dipping thing, but I do know about powdercoating, which has a tendency to be very hard and slippery, causing the lugs to loosen over time. The torque wrench allows the operator to quickly and easily make sure the lugs are not getting loose if checked frequently.

If you are not using a torque wrench on your wheels, you cannot really call yourself an enthusiast...

 

If you are not using a torque wrench on your wheels, you cannot really call yourself an enthusiast...

Like! You should make that a part of your signature.

 

If you are not using a torque wrench on your wheels, you cannot really call yourself an enthusiast...
Like! You should make that a part of your signature.

Thanks man!

 

Ok dudes, this is the answer: 88.3 ~ 107.9 Nm tightening torque. I'd call it 100 Nm to be safe. That's the equivalent to 80 Ft. lbs. No more, no less. Source: Suspension System pdf from: http://www.veloster.org/forum/9-hyu...9-hyundai-veloster-engine-transmission/1640-service-manual-direct-download.html

...which is no longer hosted, but I thankfully grabbed all the PDF's a few months ago.

 

Ok dudes, this is the answer: 88.3 ~ 107.9 Nm tightening torque. I'd call it 100 Nm to be safe. That's the equivalent to 80 Ft. lbs. No more, no less. Source: Suspension System pdf from: http://www.veloster.org/forum/9-hyu...9-hyundai-veloster-engine-transmission/1640-service-manual-direct-download.html
...which is no longer hosted, but I thankfully grabbed all the PDF's a few months ago.

And if I were working in the garage on a Veloster I would set my wrench at 90-91 ft-lbs as wrenches sold here in the states are mostly going to have a ft-lbs scale

 

On my Dodge intrepid, it has 5 lug chrome faced 16" cast aluminum wheels. The lug nut seats are aluminum and not chromed and are for cone shaped lug nuts. The torque spec was 100 ft-lbs. Chrysler says not to use any lube on the wheel studs. thread was M12x1.5. I had set up my pneumatic impact wrench to drive the nuts to about 75 ft-lbs and then I finish to 100 with my torque wrench. In 7 years of rotating and cleaning my wheels, I have never had a lug come loose.

Just recently I have started using a 12V LiIon cordless impact gun to install the lug nuts. I can slowly run the nut down before the hammering starts. It's not cumbersome and much more convenient to use. I still finish with the torque wrench, but only use the pneumatic gun to remove the lug nuts now.

 

I couldn't agree more with the statement that you're not an enthusiast unless you use a torque wrench. Period.

 

I sometimes get real witty after a few quality beers

 

I do believe you good kind sire, er, um, sir.

 

resurrecting an old thread, BUT
is the 88.3 ft lbs the same on the velosters?
I dont think anything changed drastically on the wheels/brakes to change this, but just want to be sure.

Thanks

 

Is 18" torque wrench enough for the lug nuts? Or 24"?

 

Mine's 18" and it's fine, the 24" would be too long imo.

 

Ok, i'll get the 18" and try.

 

The assembly plant uses torque controlled tools for many of the fasteners, and certainly for the wheel studs.

Get the torque value for your vehicle - many brands have the value in the owner's manual.... haven't checked my V's manual though as I haven't had the need yet to remove a wheel.

Too loose and they can loosen, which leads to a broken stud.

Too tight stretches the fastener - permanently, and weakens the stud. It can then break the next time you tighten, or while you are driving.

The torque value is for the fastener (wheel stud) - which the manufacturer specs for the load rating of the vehicle primarily (eg 4, 5, 8 stud hubs, grade of fastener, etc). You cant exceed the rated torque value of the stud you have.