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Engine knocking. Catalytic converter plugged. Aftermarket exhaust

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13K views 11 replies 10 participants last post by  Zach  
#1 ·
I have a 2012 NAV with 75,000km. I've been running the Megan cat-back exhaust for almost 2 years now (30,000-40,000km). I preform injector flushes every 25,000km, combustion chamber cleaning and the recommended fuel aditive every 5,000-10,000km (aditive is recommended every 12,000km). I also have been running 91 octane since I bought the car with quaker state synthetic 5w-20 motor oil (except for the last oil change which was Mobile One synthetic 5w-30, which is allowed based on the manual) oil changes every 5,000km with an OEM filter.

Recently as I was driving my car it stalled. The catalytic converter was so plugged up that the car could not run at all (No codes). Got the catalytic converter replaced and they said it was due to carbon build up caused by the lack of backflow from the A/M exhaust. I think its total horse **** as that's not how the GDI system works. It reads the intake of air and mixes in the appropriate level of fuel. Now that I have gotten my car back there's a ticking/knocking noise from the engine that makes it sound like a diesel (No it isn't the high pressure fuel pump. Way to loud for that).

My question to you guys is has anyone experienced similar issues? Especially those with aftermarket exhausts. Any mechanics out there to verify what they have told me about the carbon build up and the issues the A/M exhaust is causing me?
 
#2 ·
They were using that excuse to make you pay for the new catalytic converter. They're wrong but they can do that. Back pressure doesn't keep it from getting clogged, that would make no sense.

So basically, before it got clogged it was running fine and after they replaced it, it started doing this?
 
#4 ·
It might have something to do with the fact that NAVs don't require anything over 87 octane.

Many people believe that the higher the octane the better quality (or how clean) of the fuel. Maybe you know what octane is for maybe you don't but I will tell you anyway.

More octane is added to fuel to increase the flash point of the fuel. The reason they would need to do this is for higher compression engines (higher compression equals more heat) and for forced air induction engines to prevent premature detonation of the fuel. Most of your average vehicles run best on 87 octane cause a higher octane has a flash point that is higher than what the car can handle.

Maybe since you were running 91 octane, less of the fuel was being burned and started clogging your catalytic converter. Also maybe (not sure why but still maybe) you are able to notice your engine running poorly now on the higher octane, again not sure why you would be able to notice now and not earlier.

I would try running 87 octane for a few tanks of gas and not putting in the fuel treatment.
 
#6 ·
I know what you are talking about. Mine did the same thing. Mine just stalled out. They told me the cat was clogged, and they replaced it. When I got it back, it had a knocking sound, kind of like a diesel. So I brought it back the next day. As of right now, I am waiting for my new engine to come in for dealership to swap out. I have stock exhaust, and only 32K miles on my 2013.

When they gave me the car back the first time, they did say that they updated the ECU. Would the fact that we are stuck with gas with ethanol make matters any worse? I mean, there is nothing we can do about that. But would it be a contributing factor?
 
#9 · (Edited)
Haven't posted in a while. Still have my 2012 NAV. June w/79k miles on car code P0420 appears. Dealer replaced exhaust manifold, exhaust pipe & catalytic system assembly (cat & O2 sensors) under emissions warranty which runs out at 80k. Lucky for me. I have had the Turbo Kits CAI & ABE since 20k miles with no issues. Recently thru P0014 code and dealer found bad Oil Control Valve, replaced under engine warranty and on the road again. Trip to Maryland and CEL back on with same code @83k, Changed Camshaft Position Sensor as advised (sensors NOT covered under 10/yr/100k warranty). Reset ecm and on road again. Light on again P0014 code again & 85k miles on clock. Now dealer says both CVVT's need to be replaced (under engine warranty). TBC....
 
#10 ·
Similar scenario with me, I have a post elsewhere. 2012 NAV with just under 30k miles, injen intake, megan catback. Dealership said the cat came apart internally, replaced it under warranty. Now my car is making a strange loud ticking sound that wasn't there before, delayed start and the exhaust pops while idling. Guess I need to take it back.
 
#11 ·
I encountered significant engine knocking problems after implementing a heavy camming project on the cheap.
I later realised this is not the engine modification to do on the cheap so I invested heavily in getting it done properly.

Now my 1.6L powerplant has a heavy cam and no knocking.

Good plans bring good outcomes.