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found this pretty interesting article about 10 everyday things most people do that damages their cars. definitely a good read for everyone that owns a car. didnt realize most of these til i read it. #10 does not apply to everyone but i know im definitely guilty of that one. hahaha.



1. Not Using The Parking Brake

It’s a little pedal near your left leg, or a lever on your right. Yes, that mysterious device that you’ve never used is actually valuable. When you park on an incline, or even on fairly steady ground, without using the parking brake, you’re putting all of the stress of the car on your transmission. The only thing inside that transmission holding your car steady is a little pin called a parking pawl. By using the parking brake, you lock up the non-drive wheels as well as the drive wheels and take the stress off of the transmission. It’ll add years of life to your cars transmission. Just remember to disengage it before you start driving again.

2. Not Coming To A Complete Stop Before Shifting


So you’re in a rush, and you pull out of a parking space and shift into drive while the car is still coasting backwards. You’ve just added months of wear to your transmission in seconds. Inside your transmission is a complex set of gears, when you shift without stopping like that, you’re asking those gears to work as your brakes, which puts an amazing amount of stress on such a small area. You can also damage your drive shafts, the things that send power to the wheels, by shifting that way. After a while, it’ll lead to sloppy suspension handling, and a worn out transmission.

3. Riding The Brakes Down A Hill


If you are driving on a hill that goes on for a while, you’ll want to avoid riding the brake the whole time. Alternate between braking and letting off the brake so you don’t heat up and wear out your brake pads. It’s a common mistake, because it feels like the safest way to maneuver down a hill, but if the hill is sufficiently long, you can end up almost totally wearing out your pads, since as they heat up, they wear faster.

4. Forgetting To Change The Oil


You need to change your oil every 5,000 miles at the most. That’s really all there is to it. I actually read a blog online that said you can wait until your oil light comes on to change your oil. I’ve worked in the automotive business… by the time your oil light comes on, the oil inside your engine has turned into jet black molasses and is of no use to your engine. In the short term, I suppose it’s not that important, but more frequent changes can actually double the life of your car and greatly increase its performance.

5. Pressure Washing The Engine


I can respect a person’s desire to want a clean engine. It gets grimy under there and a guy with a pressure washer is a dangerous thing for grime – you want to point it at anything even slightly dirty. But a grimy engine that runs right is better than a clean engine that doesn’t run at all. And if you spray a high powered jet of water around rubber seals and hoses and electrical bits, you’re bound to dislodge something important. A modern engine is a complex thing, all manner of sensors and wiring harnesses and components, and it’s no place for a jet of high pressure water. A regular garden hose is OK if you want to wash it down, just be careful with the high pressure business.

6. Starting Your Car The Wrong Way


It seems simple, but you can make a big difference by turning off your radio, wipers, climate control, all of those accessories, when you start the car. Most of the wear on the engine happens when you start the car, and by turning off those accessories, your engine doesn’t have to work as hard when starting.
Another thing people do is revving the engine in the winter. This actually doesn’t help “warm up” the car. Although it does technically make the engine hotter, it’s not the kind of “warming up” that you want. Revving your engine in the winter causes extreme temperature changes right away, which is actually the opposite of what you want. When you start the car, the oil hasn’t yet worked its way through the system, so the engine is working without lubricant. The right way to do it is just let the car sit and idle for about 30 seconds to a minute at the least.

7. Ignoring Your Car’s Sounds


Every sound your car makes means something, if you pay attention, your car can usually tell you exactly what needs fixing. Those squeaking brakes mean you need new pads, and if you ignore that sound, eventually you’ll hear scraping metal, which means you need new rotors, and if you ignore that, you’ll eventually hear the sound of your own scream as you lose your brakes completely and fly off a cliff in a spectacular fireball of death. It’s more common than you think. Listen to your car.

8. Letting The Interior Go


You’re in a rush again, and you eat most of your disgusting egg and cheese bagel, and toss the rest in the wrapper on the passenger seat. Lovely. You know who you are, your car is filthy, never been vacuumed, 15 air fresheners hang on the mirror, and yet, no air freshener made by mortal man can stop the sickening wind within your car. You need to clean it. If you don’t vacuum your carpets and clean out the garbage every so often, you’ll develop a smell that is impossible to destroy. I’ve worked in the auto salvage business, and I know that there exist smells that are so obscene, so inhuman, that no shampoo can vanquish them. The only way to stop them is to never let them develop. Clean your car, for the sake of all mankind.

9. Running Your Car Down To Empty


There’s actually a bit of a debate about this one. The old wisdom says if your car gets down to E, the sediment in your tank will get sucked into the system and foul your fuel injectors . Although some mechanics says thats not true. Either way, running down to E does pose other problems. You cut the life of the fuel pump considerably, since the fuel actually cools the pump.

An interesting note: Most cars can drive another 60 miles+ after they hit Empty, automakers call this extra gas the “buffer zone”. US cars have the largest “buffer zone” of any vehicles. German drivers, for instance, like to know exactly how much gas in is the car, so their “buffer zone” between the gauge’s E and the actual empty tank is much smaller.

10. Driving Past Attractive Women


This is a common mistake, especially among younger male drivers. Attractive women can be incredibly damaging to your vehicle, they can cause the driver to install bizarre over-sized woofers or 22 inch rims, or even spontaneously crash the car into a nearby tree or telephone pole. When you’re driving, be careful to avoid swimming pools, beaches, college campuses, anyplace where beautiful girls assemble in any significant numbers. Your car will thank you.
 

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Transmission Problems?

First, I can't find how to start a new thread.

My local Hyundai dealer has had a Veloster for over two weeks but it's hidden behind the Service Center waiting for a Hyundai rep to "We are having to put an new Transmission in the Veloster". Has anyone else heard of manual transmission problems requiring a brand new Veloster to need the transmission replaced?
 

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i thought those were givens? haha owell.

i'm guilty of #10...almost rear ended somebody when i was in college checking out this group of hotties that took interest to what i was playing (This is when i first got my car back in 03 with my system first installed)...we were eye locked for a little too long. haha
 

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While changing your oil regularly is a no-brainer, 5,000 miles seems a little arbitrary. It really depends on oil type, whether it's synthetic or not, driving habits and conditions, and even manufacturer recommendations. My 2011 Ford Fiesta uses 5W20 Synthetic Blend oil and per the OWNER'S MANUAL, I change my oil every 10,000 miles. For most applications, the 3,000 miles per change is rather antiquated. New engines are running cleaner and as efficient as ever.
 

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I wish #9 was true... If my Explorer had a 60+ mile "Buffer Zone" this means that my buffer zone will be 4 gallons.. (I barely get 15 per gallon my my truck) but this is just not true I bet that number is wrong.. maybe 6 miles but not 60..
 

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This is sticky worthy. Great job, especially if you wrote all that out. :D.. I'm guilty of #3... and Someone explain how to clean an engine :)
 

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I see 10 all the time in the run down areas of town.....sad. Rims worth more than the old beat up junker. I always wanted rims on my car but real life bills got in the way, most id ever go in up 2" from my current stock rims, more is pushing it.
 

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This is sticky worthy. Great job, especially if you wrote all that out. :D.. I'm guilty of #3... and Someone explain how to clean an engine :)
I've used oven de-greaser and an boat ton of shop towels before. It works pretty well, and i'm pretty sure you're not going to knock anything out of place so long as you're careful. Either that or a garden hose with one of those soap mixers and some dawn should do the trick, might need a little bit of elbow grease in there as well.
 

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I've used oven de-greaser and an boat ton of shop towels before. It works pretty well, and i'm pretty sure you're not going to knock anything out of place so long as you're careful. Either that or a garden hose with one of those soap mixers and some dawn should do the trick, might need a little bit of elbow grease in there as well.
Haha sounds like a lot of work :p
 

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Formula 409 let it sit for few minutes then rinse, this is how I keep my Ford engine fairly clean.. only do this once a year or so.. Biggest concern is drying out the hoses in the car so that is way i only do it once a year...
 

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First, I can't find how to start a new thread.

My local Hyundai dealer has had a Veloster for over two weeks but it's hidden behind the Service Center waiting for a Hyundai rep to "We are having to put an new Transmission in the Veloster". Has anyone else heard of manual transmission problems requiring a brand new Veloster to need the transmission replaced?

Hawk, sorry to hear that. I highly doubt any dealership would try to hide a perfectly good car and avoid a sale (they paid by commission after all) so i would just go ahead and believe what they say.. this can be caused by many things..

Likely factors-
factory defect?
Someone test driving it messed up the tranny?

Possible factors-
maybe its a preproduction model that they arent legally allowed to sell?
maybe its someone at the dealerships car and they are lying?

Regardless. I drive a 6 speed manual veloster and have not had any issue at all so far (almost 3000 on the ODO) and you will be covered for atleast a few years via warranty.

my suggestion? maybe try another dealer? Velosters are flying off the lots at some dealers, and sitting there for weeks at others. maybe try calling around. Driving 30-40 minutes to a specific dealership can usually be used as a haggling tool. "i drove 30 mins here for you to give me the same price as the other dealer?"

Let me know what happens. Like I stated in the OP, lemons happen to every company. Be it hyundai, lexus, or ferrari.=D

As for the thread question. From the main forums page you select a section
I.E: Veloster General topics, Veloster Electrical discussion, Performance discussion.
Once you have selected the one you find most suitable to your topic click it and on the top left corner (between where the advertisements end and the red of the topics section begins) you will see a dark grey button with a paper and pencil on it marked "new thread"


=D hope this all helps!
 

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I have to point out a bit of BS in here.

2. This could also be titled, never start on a hill, park your car on a hill, or drive on anything that isn't downhill or you are adding months of wear to your car in seconds. This is coming from a MT perspective. If this is referring to automatics he has more of a point but again, being uphill is going to put similar stresses on the engine so just use common sense.

4. The color of the oil means nothing. If you've got sludge in there that's a problem but the color is not an indicator of the condition of the oil or if it needs to be changed.

6. This is just silly. Next time you get in but before you start your car turn everything on. Crazy go nuts with your doodads. Now start the car. You will see your radio turn off, your windshield wipers stop, etc. The people who described this complicated piece of engineering weren't idiots. When starting the car the effort goes to starting the car. The idling part is true, though.

9. So don't run it down to E but E actually isn't E? That is a confusing piece of advice there.

Thankfully I've always managed to avoid #10 :D In fact, I think Corvettes are stupid cars.
 

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For the last 8 or 10 cars, I've been using the TRIP B as the number of miles since my DIY oil change.
Veloster only goes to 999.9 so you can't even follow the Mfg plan to change oil at 7500. :-(

Anybody see the Consumer Report about extended oil use? They took down engines and examined
wear in NYC taxi cabs. Cabs that were changing oil at intervals, some 3000, some 6000, some 9000, and
some at 12000 miles. They could not get enough statistics on the 12k cabs (too many accidents
took down their numbers) but could not see ANY difference between 3000 and 9000 miles. They
wanted to debunk the quick lub rumors that you must change oil every 3000 or pay for big repairs
later.
 

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Even with the fuel tank light on and my last line of fuel gauge flashing I did around 75km (47miles) before fueling.

And before I had a VW TDI and could do around 140km (88miles) with fuel light on.


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

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For the last 8 or 10 cars, I've been using the TRIP B as the number of miles since my DIY oil change.
Veloster only goes to 999.9 so you can't even follow the Mfg plan to change oil at 7500. :-(

Anybody see the Consumer Report about extended oil use? They took down engines and examined
wear in NYC taxi cabs. Cabs that were changing oil at intervals, some 3000, some 6000, some 9000, and
some at 12000 miles. They could not get enough statistics on the 12k cabs (too many accidents
took down their numbers) but could not see ANY difference between 3000 and 9000 miles. They
wanted to debunk the quick lub rumors that you must change oil every 3000 or pay for big repairs
later.

Can you elaborate on what weight the oil was? Semi? Full synthetic? Actual average time interval? Vehicles that were actually tested? If not, GTFO.
 
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