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2012 Hyundai Veloster 1.6
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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Nor worries, i ride motorcycles and have a 2012 none turbo Veloster.

Im at 98,000 miles.

Plugs, get the OEM or the equivelent and replace all 4 at the same time and be sure the coil packs sit correctly.

My car does not burn or lose oil magically. I run full synthetic since i got it used in 2013 with 28,000miles on it.

Check your AC refrigerent PSI that its at the correct level. I found if its a little under or over the engine will freak out because the compressor clutch will kick on and off. Will sound like it wants to die.

Check your trans oil. Mine is a Standard and holds 2 quarts of gear oil. After a dealer replaced my CV axle they forgot to put back the one quart that drains out.

The car ran fine for a month but then when i finely drove it long enough i would hear noises. Discovered the issue and drainex, refilled fresh royal purple gear oil to the correct leveland problem gone.

If it is a stick shift it has a gear indicator for which gear to move up to. If you dont see that light, be sure the sensor on the back of the clutch pedal is connected as this is for the gear shift assist.

If your getting a white vapor in your exhaust, small amounts of water are probably leaking some place. Doesnt take much to cause this but eventually you will see the coolant level drop. So keep an eye.

Also, double check all the vacuum lines and air intake for loose connections or gaps.

This is all just stuff to check since its in rough shape it sounds.

Also, if the AC switch for the fan speed starts acting up, remove the bezel and the entire AC unit and you will find the back of the control coming loose. Easy fix is to remove it, put a small clamp to hold it together properly then out epoxy to keep it together.

Hope this all helps.
Thanks for all the tips 👍

I hadn't noticed... I saw one fellow suggested running her up to redline from time to time... not a bad idea... but at the mileage she's at... I would look in to running something like "Seafoam" or "Techron" through her. Both are excellent de-carboning agents and can make a big difference.


Being a motorcycllist myself (Kawi Vulcan Drifter) we would do that at every oil change. Add Seafoam... and ride it like you stole it for a bit.

Good luck!
Cheers I'll see if I can find a similar product here and give it a go 👍🏻
 

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No such luck with mine. It just gave up starting in the mornings with aftermarket plugs but once I swapped back to OEM (and changed nothing else) its started every day no problems 🤷‍♂️ I guess it depends on he quality of the aftermarket ones your using
I feel you man. It does depend on which brand you pick but mine were like 40 a piece and they still work to this day. If you know how to test them before you I stall them I would do it cause im betting if they don't work people send them back and then you get a "new one" when really they didn't work in the first place.
 

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2013 VT ultimate white, 6spd
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Oh ok wow. It could be a number of things.
A leak in the exhaust system on the bank 1 side
Mechanical issue in one or more of the bank 1 fuel injectors
Faulty MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor or fuel pressure regulator< ‐----pretty sure you said you already checked this sensor.
Faulty EVAP system purge valve
Faulty crankcase ventilation valve
Leaking intake manifold gaskets (Probally not)
Loose intake manifold
Faulty bank 1 oxygen sensor (UPSTREAM)
Fuel pressure low due to weak fuel pump <--- possibly
A restricted fuel supply such as pinched fuel line or clogged fuel filter. <-- I would check this last unless you get really inconsistent throttle response. I have found that if it's an internal pressure issue it will throw a code. If that was the case vented oil caps would cause the CEL to come on. Your not getting any other codes?
 

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Well hold on. Is your fuel air mix ratio jumping all around at idle? Should be 14.7 to 1 or right around there. When idling it should stay pretty consistent if it's jumping all around then you might want to look at the intake manifold gasket or head gasket. This will cause a number of problems. You might hear a weeze or whistle when you cut the car off.
 

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The sensor your asking about is the one located on the intake manifold itself.
Font Musical instrument accessory Event Electronic instrument Audio equipment
shining a light on the maf
 

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2014 VT manual
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MAP sensor…
 

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2012 Hyundai Veloster 1.6
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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Well hold on. Is your fuel air mix ratio jumping all around at idle? Should be 14.7 to 1 or right around there. When idling it should stay pretty consistent if it's jumping all around then you might want to look at the intake manifold gasket or head gasket. This will cause a number of problems. You might hear a weeze or whistle when you cut the car off.
I have no clue what the mix ratio is? That doesn't seem to be an option on the obd reader? There is definitely a fueling issue and it's worse at idle. While driving the car it doesn't seem to have any issues, more just on cold starts. Saying that it did through the rich at idle code again today while driving around town 🙄
I've got a new Map sensor today and plan on replacing the o2 sensor aswell just because they are cheap and easy to get to


The sensor your asking about is the one located on the intake manifold itself. View attachment 134958 shining a light on the maf
That's actually different to mine, is that on the turbo model? Mine is at the front bottom right next to the throttle body and only has a single screw in it. I ordered the one shown in your pic by mistake and had to return it for the correct one today 🙈
 

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Ok that's the correct one for the NA sorry for any confusion. But that would be the MAP (all caps so no auto correction) the mix ratio would show on a obd2 reader while it monitors your engine in real time. Or torque app or any app that gives you real time data. 14.7 to 1 is the optimal mix for any gas engine (stoichiometric ratio) 14.7 grams air to 1 gram fuel. All cars try and hold that ratio. When idling it should stay consistent maybe jumping 14.6-14.8 but should hover right around there. If it 15, 16, 13 then that's a pretty good indication something is really wrong. I would be more concerned if the MAP sensor (like what you described) if it codes a rich mix and its really not, because it may try to lean out the mix which yes will add power but will eventually damage the engine. Running a rich mix is dirty but safer for the engine but hard on the catalytic converter. I personally hate doing things that remove hp but the engine will fail if it's run lean for too long. I thought I might mention that if you feel like you lost some torque or hp after you install the new sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
So I then loaded up the OBD and looked for the relevant info and found that mine is reading 1.47 😬
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So I then loaded up the OBD and looked for the relevant info and found that mine is reading 1.47 😬 View attachment 134963
That's anorexic lean. 😂😳
Yeah that's got to be fixed as it usually varies from .1 to -.1 on average which is hovering around the 14.7 lambda.
 

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Lol yeah that's a little too lean. Definitely not good. When I use my torque app it looks like this
Light Gadget Font Audio equipment Technology
torque is not the best but for general monitoring it works great. The performance of the app really depends on your obd2 adapter and how well it works with the app. I brought up torque because many people in the forum uses it and it works fairly well with most blue tooth obd2 scanners. Looks like your obd2 reader is better than the torque app( little bit laggy) most of the time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
But if that's lean then why am I getting the EML for being too rich??
According to the website I posted it says

"if the pre-cat sensor reading is fairly steady at close to 1.0 volt, that indicates that the fuel mixture is too rich, while anything going towards 0.0V would suggest that the fuel mixture is too lean. The first sensor should be switching more often between rich and lean readings"

And mine is reading 1.47 volt so surely that's stupidly rich?

Could this just be a sign that the o2 reader is knackered? Or if not and the car is running that rich or lean then why is the EMU not correcting itself?
 

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Yes I would think so. If it thinks it's running to rich it's going to try and lean out the mix. It's sounds like it's trying to correct the fuel air mix but if the sensor is bad then it will never the mix correct.
 

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I know it does not make sense all the time. But since the sensors are voltage sensitive. Even if it giving you an actual mix and we can see it's clearly wrong. It's still looking for volts. So I would say definitely the sensor is bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
I know it does not make sense all the time. But since the sensors are voltage sensitive. Even if it giving you an actual mix and we can see it's clearly wrong. It's still looking for volts. So I would say definitely the sensor is bad.
Well I was planning on changing it anyway so that's just more of a reason to get it done sooner rather than later. They're fairly cheap to replace so gotta be worth a go 👍🏻
 

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I would try that it seem like you just about got the problem solved. Just don't forget to clear out your codes and reset you ecu/emu. Easiest way I found is disconnect the battery and hook a jumper between the + and - sides then step on the brakes try the windows anything to drain the capacitors in the drive computer and let it sit about hour then hook the battery back up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Well here's an update. I've still not got my 02 sensor through yet (hopefully this week) but the EML came on today with the usual "Bank 1 rich at idle" code 🙄 so plugged in the reader to clear it and discovered the OBDII option. Ran that diagnostic and got all the information I'd been trying to find before like fuel trims and o2 readings!
I still don't understand it though so here are some photos if anyone could translate for me please 😁
 

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