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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well as the title suggests I'm having a few problems with my 2012 Veloster. As a bit of history... non turbo, 125,000 miles, full dealership service history up until 75,000, lots of receipts for work done in the past... it was loved at some point.
Well between then and when I bought it 3 months ago it must have been owned by a clown 😱 but basically bought it cheap as cosmetically it's a bit rough (dents, scratches and alloys you wouldn't admit to seeing let alone owning πŸ™ˆ) but was told its mechanically alright for the mileage. Seemed OK on a short test drive, just a bit noisey so bit the bullet and bought it.

Let me just say here that I predominantly ride motorbikes and have a basic machanical knowledge of them but no experience with cars. Therefor I would like to apologise now for any stupid questions/remarks I may come out with regarding machanical stuff

First problem, checked it over at my house and found that it was pretty much empty of oil, I mean I managed to get over 3 litres in it before it was showing on the dipstick!! Amazingly no harm seemed to have been done in the few miles I'd drove it like that, also mote surprising was the fact no EMLs or oil light πŸ€”
Anyway topped it up and started to use it daily. The engine was very noisey (something I've since learnt is due it being a high mileage GDI and is probably 80% carbon inside) but it drove fine.
It does seem to use a bit of oil but from what I've read that's not uncommon for these engines and especially not at this mileage so might not be much of an issue

The next problem (still unsolved) came in the form of white/grey mist from the exhaust. Obviously the first thing I though was head gasket but the car doesn't overheat and I'm not really losing any coolant (2-300ml at most in 2 months) and it doesn't seem to be happening all the time, more after sitting at lights or when accelerating. So then I thought maybe stem seals (still likely) but after multiple opinions and checks the general consensus is that it can't be from oil as its more of a vapour than smoke and dissipates quickly. Also for around 3 weeks it didn't happen at all, now it's happening in again but only now and then πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

Now for the major problem.... After owning the car for around 10 days I decided to service it. All went well but the spark plugs were in an horrendous state (1 had a whole in the end) as because I didn't know any better I just bought the only replacements available from my local auto parts store (Halfords) which turned out to be Denso branded ones.
Well a week or so later I started to notice that when starting the car first thing in the morning, it would hesitate to move when first pulling off. At first I thought the brakes were binding it it got steadily worse morning after morning until its gotten to the stage now where the car will start then as soon as the rev drop back down the cars stalls and dies.

So to elaborate it will start on the button everytime no problem, the revs with sit around 2000rpm for maybe 10seconds then slowly drop down to around 1000rpm at which point it starts stuttering, jumping between 900rpm and 1500rpm until after 10 more seconds it will die. I can restart it and will do the exact same. If I keep the revs over 2000rpm then will stay on but if I let it drop to 1000rpm and then press the accelerator I get nothing but popping noises and surges then all of a sudden it will catch and rev up to 5000rpm. Once I've driven the car for a minute or so it will hold the idle at 1000rpm no problem and after 10 or 15mins of driving the idle will drop to 680rpm and the car will work perfectly.
It seems to just be an idle issue as the car will drive fine aftertaste for however long I want. I can turn it off for around 30mins without it happening again but any longer than that and it will play up. I left it sat for 10 days while I went on holiday and upon my return to go along with the crap starting I had the EML was flashing and registering a misfire on cylinder 3, checked and that plug was completely fouled (after around 4 weeks/300miles) and no longer firing so I replaced it and back to business as usual.
I checked the plugs again this morning and they all seem OK although there was some oil on 2 of those threads (another issue πŸ™ˆ)

I've plugged in an OBD reader and ,other than the misfire codes i got the code P2188 (rich at idle bank 1) which has opened up a whole can of worms and after a week of pulling out what little hair I have left googling and searching the Web trying to find a definitive answer, I decided to just give up and ask for help πŸ™ŒπŸ»

I've got all the live information data from the OBD so I know all the readings and voltages for all the sensors etc.... I just don't know what most of it means
I've read about Map sensors and O2 sensors failing but I'm getting readings from them all, just not sure if they're the correct readings

I have taken the car to a "professional" and he basically just told me that the piston rings had gone and that I shouldn't bother with it As the car is knackered..... but I've done 500 miles since then and a compression test which showed that's not the case πŸ™„ besides other than the starting issues and the exhuast vapour the car runs fine so I can't see it being that terminal??

So yeah, congrats if you've made it to the end, sorry for babbling on, hopefully someone can help me please as I really like this car πŸ˜…
 

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Start with the plugs and coils (get ngk plugs and oem coils). Or Atleast the plugs. Get those denso out of there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Start with the plugs and coils (get ngk plugs and oem coils). Or Atleast the plugs. Get those denso out of there.
Already on it πŸ‘πŸ» OEM plugs are due to be delivered on the 10th. I'd read somewhere (probably here) that the car doesnt run well on anything other than OEM plugs. Got to say though they are very hard to get hold of over here πŸ€•
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well bad news.... the oem plugs came today so stuck them in, left it 5 hours and then tried to start her up and it's even worse than before (n)
Started on the button as usual but before it used to try and fight to keep the idle before dying, now not just starts then dies straight away and pressing the accelerator no longer saves it or has any effect πŸ™ˆ
I bit stumped now asking was sure the plugs were going to solve that particular problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ignore that.... I'd forgotten to plug the fuel control module back in πŸ™ˆπŸ™ˆ popped the plug back in this morning and the car started and idled fine πŸ₯³πŸ₯³
 

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What kind of bike/ bikes do you have? πŸ€¨πŸ€”
Since you're familiar with bike the transition to cars isn't that much different especially if your bike is fuel injected. Carbureted is a bit different but the basics and mechanical end of it will help with figuring things out on the car.

Keep in mind to use the stock oil filter and the oil of your choice and you're good on the lube end of the spectrum.
Mechanically you should already know how to check suspensions on the bike but realize there is no sag adjustment for cars. πŸ˜‚πŸ˜
Car suspensions are similar to bikes and work similarly if components need replacing etc.

You've come to the right place for answers and welcome to the forums and yes I did read the whole post. πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‰πŸ‘
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey Misnblu
Had various bikes over the years both carburetted and fuel injected. Recently bought a Kawasaki Ninja 1000sx after 4 years of having (and customising) a Yamaha Fz1-N Abarth Assetto Course edition, which I tuned and molded to within an inch of its life haha but planning of leaving the Kawasaki relatively stock for now.
Same goes with the veloster, other than having the wheels powdercoated I won't be messing about with it too much anytime soon. Fixing it will be enough for now haha

I'm slowly learning a few bits about cars, I can perform a basic service and since owning this veloster I have started to learn how to use an OBD reader and a lot about sensors etc
The thing thats easy about motorbikes vs cars is that the whole engine is just that 1 piece in the frame, there very little else to it. Where as I'm finding in a car that there are sensors, servos, modules and regulators absolutely everywhere. First time I went under the bonnet I didn't k ow where to start with the amount of hoses and wires everywhere haha but I'm sure I'll get there πŸ‘πŸ»

As for the matters about the starting issue seems to have been resolved by switching out the denso plugs for OEM so that's a result (and a mistake I know not to make again)

So now the car is back to running how it was when I got it, which is fine for an about town run around but if I ever want to use it for anything else I think I'm going going have to delve deeper I to the oil issue. I've no noticed that it smokes when I get over 3-4000 rpm but is fine if I keep it under. The engine is very noisey (like a diesel) but then it has done 125000 miles so probably to be expected?
I've never had a car with more than 60,000 miles before so this is all new to me. I have only bought it as a second car for myself so that I don't have to get wet and cold in the winter on a motorbike if I don't have to haha

I have bought some oil additive that is meant to help with any piston ring, valve stem etc leaks. I know it's probably a waste of money but figured it's got to be worth a go for now. If it doesn't turn out to be a big issue then I have a garage so I can have a play with it over the summer when I'm back on the bike.
I figure taking the valve cover off for a look can't hurt, then I can maybe see what the issue is?
Anyway cheers for the replies πŸ‘πŸ»
 

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Nice stable of bikes you got there and congrats on the Ninja1000SX. πŸ‘

I've got a Honda FireStorm and Ninja400 which is new as the Honda is going through a complete restoration and being heavily modified as well.

I might suggest you run the engine up to redline a few times to blow out the carbon from the combustion chambers. On ramps to highways are a perfect scenario for doing so. πŸ‘

Most people lug their engines daily without ever thinking that these are made to rev and redline on occasion.

Glad you got it working good and enjoy the ride.
Take care. πŸ‘
 

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The intermittent Grey smoke sounds like a valve seal issue. Since does in under stress it when you accelerate then it goes away. This issue can causes several sensors to go off, related and unrelated. Including running rich/lean and misfires. I would check the condition of the valves and the seats. Since your not getting a cam position sensor warning, I doubt you have any bent valves but running on probably on half a quart of oil did nothing to help. If the previous owner was terrible at maintaining the engine, and you have no obvious oil or coolant leaks that's what I would look at or possibly the timing chain. I'm guessing that's probably never been maintained as well. Good luck πŸ‘
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The intermittent Grey smoke sounds like a valve seal issue. Since does in under stress it when you accelerate then it goes away. This issue can causes several sensors to go off, related and unrelated. Including running rich/lean and misfires. I would check the condition of the valves and the seats. Since your not getting a cam position sensor warning, I doubt you have any bent valves but running on probably on half a quart of oil did nothing to help. If the previous owner was terrible at maintaining the engine, and you have no obvious oil or coolant leaks that's what I would look at or possibly the timing chain. I'm guessing that's probably never been maintained as well. Good luck πŸ‘
Thanks for the useful info, that's pretty much what I had suspected myself so it's good to know I'm on the right track.
As I said earlier I do plan on take the valve cover off for a look at some point. I fear the valve stem seals themselves would be too big of a job for me but if I can at least confirm they are the problem then I can find a pro mechanic to do the work. I'm guessing that it wouldnt be too much more of a job to have the timing chain done at the same time as the seals? Seeing as most of the engine would be apart anyway πŸ€”
 

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Valve stems are easy. You will need however a good torque wrench, a magnet, long necked sockets, bucket of chem dip, and some engine cleaning brushes.
 

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I would replace the timing chain while you have the engine torn apart as well. It's an easy job too just match the dots to the links on the chain. If you decide to do the work yourself I can help you if you get stuck but it's pretty straightforward. You don't need any specialized tools.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Valve stems are easy. You will need however a good torque wrench, a magnet, long necked sockets, bucket of chem dip, and some engine cleaning brushes.
Thanks, I have a fully kitted out garage so none of that is an issue. I will have a read up and watch a few videos on valve seals and timing chain work to see if I feel brave enough πŸ˜…
I don't mind having a go and learning but at the same time for the sake of a few hundred quid it's nice to know its been done right haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well out driving today and I got the EML pop up again so plugged in the OBD when I got home and the is showing the P2188 (Too rich at idle bank 1) code again.
I've read online about sensors etc causing this but I can't seem to narrow down which one it is? I looked at the live data again and all the sensors seem to be operating with them each giving a reading. I've attached some pics of the data to see if anyone can anything that stands out?
The lambda and map sensors seems to be giving off readings, the pcv valve is good. I've seen no evidence of any air leaks
I'm stumped. My next option is just to replace every sensor that could be a problem but that's an expensive way of doing things.
Anyone have any ideas?
 

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That's all I could find.
Check the MAP sensor and the bank1 O2 sensor may be at play here with the code.
 

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Nor worries, i ride motorcycles and have a 2012 none turbo Veloster.

Im at 98,000 miles.

Plugs, get the OEM or the equivelent and replace all 4 at the same time and be sure the coil packs sit correctly.

My car does not burn or lose oil magically. I run full synthetic since i got it used in 2013 with 28,000miles on it.

Check your AC refrigerent PSI that its at the correct level. I found if its a little under or over the engine will freak out because the compressor clutch will kick on and off. Will sound like it wants to die.

Check your trans oil. Mine is a Standard and holds 2 quarts of gear oil. After a dealer replaced my CV axle they forgot to put back the one quart that drains out.

The car ran fine for a month but then when i finely drove it long enough i would hear noises. Discovered the issue and drainex, refilled fresh royal purple gear oil to the correct leveland problem gone.

If it is a stick shift it has a gear indicator for which gear to move up to. If you dont see that light, be sure the sensor on the back of the clutch pedal is connected as this is for the gear shift assist.

If your getting a white vapor in your exhaust, small amounts of water are probably leaking some place. Doesnt take much to cause this but eventually you will see the coolant level drop. So keep an eye.

Also, double check all the vacuum lines and air intake for loose connections or gaps.

This is all just stuff to check since its in rough shape it sounds.

Also, if the AC switch for the fan speed starts acting up, remove the bezel and the entire AC unit and you will find the back of the control coming loose. Easy fix is to remove it, put a small clamp to hold it together properly then out epoxy to keep it together.

Hope this all helps.
 

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Already on it πŸ‘πŸ» OEM plugs are due to be delivered on the 10th. I'd read somewhere (probably here) that the car doesnt run well on anything other than OEM plugs. Got to say though they are very hard to get hold of over here πŸ€•
You CAN run non oem plugs AND coils. I do both and ZERO problems.
 

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I hadn't noticed... I saw one fellow suggested running her up to redline from time to time... not a bad idea... but at the mileage she's at... I would look in to running something like "Seafoam" or "Techron" through her. Both are excellent de-carboning agents and can make a big difference.


Being a motorcycllist myself (Kawi Vulcan Drifter) we would do that at every oil change. Add Seafoam... and ride it like you stole it for a bit.

Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
You CAN run non oem plugs AND coils. I do both and ZERO problems.
No such luck with mine. It just gave up starting in the mornings with aftermarket plugs but once I swapped back to OEM (and changed nothing else) its started every day no problems πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ I guess it depends on he quality of the aftermarket ones your using
 
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