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Discussion Starter #1
So I need to replace the engine in my 2012 Veloster it’s a manual (non turbo), and it’s a VIN D 8th digit, but I’m seeing a LOT more engines listed VIN E (8th digit), but can’t seem to find out what the difference is and if the VIN E will still fit. The VIN E engines ive found are a bit cheaper and I don’t have much in the way of extra cash, so if I can use one of those it would be better.
 

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weekend racer
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what year are the E digits? any 2012-2017 non turbo engine will fit.

FWIW there are very little if any differences in the non turbo engines themselves... there may be small changes in sensors and pinouts but you can use your existing coils, sensors, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
They range from 2012-2015ish. Some are from Hyundai accents that claim they fit the Veloster too. But with the difference in VIN codes I wasn’t sure (I’ve never done an engine swap before). Does transmission type not matter for the Veloster?
 

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weekend racer
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accent should fit no problem, there are minor differences in the mounts but again you can use the ones from your veloster. the transmission does not matter as you can use your existing stuff and bolt it onto the new one.
 

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what happened to your engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Threw a rod. There was some kind of clog or bust in an oil filter that wasn’t letting the lubricant through. Shop said some of the Hyundai engines have similar issues frequently, but since I’ve changed my oil myself a few times, warranty and corporate denied the clam so I’m sol.
Probably didn’t help that my last job was out in bfe and I put 120mi/day just driving there and back. One day it sounded fine, next day I had a knock.
 

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what kind of oil and filter were you using?

what were your miles and oil change intervals?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can’t remember what filter, the last change was done at a Valvoline shop because my apartment only had street parking and I didn’t want to do it on the street. I followed the 3000mi intervals, with the exception of one of them I was a little behind on.
I think my biggest issue was that I’d been using conventional instead of full synthetic. I was under the impression only the turbo needed full synthetic, but since I’ve started reading more I’m realizing I’m probably partially at fault there too.
 

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the filter and type can have a big impact. oem filter is recommended and pennzoil/quaker state conventional or a better synthetic is as as well. no mobil 1. i don't use synthetic in my turbo however the dealer uses quaker state and an oem filter and its been fine with top tier gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
That could’ve been my issue then. I don’t think it was an OEM filter. I’ll definitely make a note of that. It’s a pretty pricy mistake, and I definitely don’t want to make it again.
 

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That could’ve been my issue then. I don’t think it was an OEM filter. I’ll definitely make a note of that. It’s a pretty pricy mistake, and I definitely don’t want to make it again.
OEM filters have a specific anti-drain valve built in to keep the engine from having dry starts. Most other aftermarket filters will not have this.
Plus I've seen the internals of the OEM filter and they're very well built with more than enough pleats on the filter for good flow.
It took me awhile on believing the OEM is better than any aftermarket filter but after reading many threads and Hyundai forums I'm now a believer.
 
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