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Hi Guys - In reading all the posts about the overheating/failure of the fan control in the Velosters I wanted to check mine out before it became a problem. I suppose the easiest solution would be to buy another one to replace, but it doesn't appear to be an option, unless you want to spend a couple of hundred to buy a whole new AC assembly.

I took mine apart today to look. With only 40000 kms onboard, it was already showing some carbonization/heat discoloration on the fan contacts. I think there is too much current draw through these contacts and the grease they use as lubrication may also be impeding the current flow, leading to heat buildup and eventual melting of the plastic connector assembly as seen in some threads on this.

131970


Sorry, I already had everything apart when I decided to snap some pictures. I will try to do a little repair tutorial here:

  1. Remove the V shaped bezel by pulling away from the dash using a screwdriver inside the 2 slots about 90 degrees apart near the bottom of the V. This is very hard without damaging the surrounding dash. I used a pick tool and had to pull very hard, then use plastic pry tools once I had some space around the bezel. Scary. A beer or beverage of your choice nearby and keeping your kids out of earshot will greatly assist.
  2. Disconnect the connectors for the AC controls, fan switch, heated seats (if equipped) and whatever else
  3. Unscrew the AC assembly from the back of the V
  4. Gently pry the white back off the assembly at the tabs (below)
    131971
  5. Unscrew the black switch from the circuit board
    131972
  6. Keep in mind the orientation of the switch pieces, gently pry apart the switch
    131973
  7. Remove grease/carbonization with alcohol, and buff surface of contacts with a scotchbrite pad or something similar (green fuzzy square in above photo)
  8. Only remove grease from the metal sections - leave the grease on the white plastic nipples (middle part, above) as these work as the detent positions for each fan speed
  9. I work in electronics so I added a contact enhancer called Stabilant 22 to the contacts, hopefully this will assist in promoting a good contact in this high current situation. Don't use a contact grease as if it reflows due to heat it will short out to the adjacent contacts. Stabilant 22 will not run. It's not like people will have this stuff laying around the house so simply cleaning the surface as above should suffice
    131974
  10. Reassemble in the reverse order
I will let you know how it works in the long term. It may require a periodic re-removal and re-cleaning every couple of years or so.

Too bad we can't simply buy the 1 dollar replacement fan switch

Hope this helps
 
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Thank you for the DIY
Couple questions: Do you think this is a faulty design and is it happening in all our cars? How way your plug connecting to your switch
 

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My plug was OK, but I don't have a lot of miles on the car. No winter driving yet to need the fan for defrost and only occasionally for AC in the summer, but was still surprised to see the beginnings of heat damage to the contacts. So I might not be a good candidate for a cross section of drivers. I was more curious than anything given the number of posts about the issue. I am assuming it is widespread, maybe someone that has used the fan more for AC and defrost - but without a full failure yet - could take theirs apart to see
 
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small wires in the plug you need to either install a relay so it doesn't burn the connecter out or replace with bigger wires
 

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...maybe someone that has used the fan more for AC and defrost - but without a full failure yet - could take theirs apart to see
Like you, low mileage. However, the A/C has probably run 98% of the time! Even when it's cooler here. And, against all advice, even when I have the sunroof open in the winter! I also rarely have the speed set at 3 or 4 unless I parked in the sun and am using Max cooling. 1 or 2 works for me just fine using the top vents and I put it the next lower venting if it gets too cold. While I am curious how the contacts/wiring might look, I'm just going to keep it all intact and keep my fingers crossed.
 

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Hi Guys - In reading all the posts about the overheating/failure of the fan control in the Velosters I wanted to check mine out before it became a problem. I suppose the easiest solution would be to buy another one to replace, but it doesn't appear to be an option, unless you want to spend a couple of hundred to buy a whole new AC assembly.

I took mine apart today to look. With only 40000 kms onboard, it was already showing some carbonization/heat discoloration on the fan contacts. I think there is too much current draw through these contacts and the grease they use as lubrication may also be impeding the current flow, leading to heat buildup and eventual melting of the plastic connector assembly as seen in some threads on this.

View attachment 131970

Sorry, I already had everything apart when I decided to snap some pictures. I will try to do a little repair tutorial here:

  1. Remove the V shaped bezel by pulling away from the dash using a screwdriver inside the 2 slots about 90 degrees apart near the bottom of the V. This is very hard without damaging the surrounding dash. I used a pick tool and had to pull very hard, then use plastic pry tools once I had some space around the bezel. Scary. A beer or beverage of your choice nearby and keeping your kids out of earshot will greatly assist.
  2. Disconnect the connectors for the AC controls, fan switch, heated seats (if equipped) and whatever else
  3. Unscrew the AC assembly from the back of the V
  4. Gently pry the white back off the assembly at the tabs (below) View attachment 131971
  5. Unscrew the black switch from the circuit board View attachment 131972
  6. Keep in mind the orientation of the switch pieces, gently pry apart the switch View attachment 131973
  7. Remove grease/carbonization with alcohol, and buff surface of contacts with a scotchbrite pad or something similar (green fuzzy square in above photo)
  8. Only remove grease from the metal sections - leave the grease on the white plastic nipples (middle part, above) as these work as the detent positions for each fan speed
  9. I work in electronics so I added a contact enhancer called Stabilant 22 to the contacts, hopefully this will assist in promoting a good contact in this high current situation. Don't use a contact grease as if it reflows due to heat it will short out to the adjacent contacts. Stabilant 22 will not run. It's not like people will have this stuff laying around the house so simply cleaning the surface as above should suffice View attachment 131974
  10. Reassemble in the reverse order
I will let you know how it works in the long term. It may require a periodic re-removal and re-cleaning every couple of years or so.

Too bad we can't simply buy the 1 dollar replacement fan switch

Hope this helps
Hi,

Thanks for the information!
Did cleaning up the connections help fix the issue, or is ordering the whole assembly they way to go?

Looking forward to your reply.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
It's still working perfect, but I park her in the winters so I haven't really had a lot of use since cleaning it. It's not hard to disassemble, so give it a try. If anything looks melted, you'll notice it right away, so buy a replacement one if that is the case
 
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It's still working perfect, but I park her in the winters so I haven't really had a lot of use since cleaning it. It's not hard to disassemble, so give it a try. If anything looks melted, you'll notice it right away, so buy a replacement one if that is the case
Hey Ricketts,

Thanks again, if one of the slots on the female wiring harness plug (like the wire that comes out from the dash) looks burnt out, do you think that could be the culprit? If so can you tell me what this wiring harness is called?

I cleaned up the contacts for the fan speed dial as you demonstrated above. When I plug it all back in, I can get the fan speed to change when I wiggle and push certain pressure on that connector from the dash.

So do you think I go with changing the whole control module, or see if replacing that burnt out harness would be better.

Thanks again for your help.

Respectfully,
Garrett
 

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can you depin the connector and see if the pin is loose? maybe move the wire up in it a bit? be sure to take a few pictures of the wire orientations in the connector as a just incase.
 
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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Ricketts,

Thanks again, if one of the slots on the female wiring harness plug (like the wire that comes out from the dash) looks burnt out, do you think that could be the culprit? If so can you tell me what this wiring harness is called?

I cleaned up the contacts for the fan speed dial as you demonstrated above. When I plug it all back in, I can get the fan speed to change when I wiggle and push certain pressure on that connector from the dash.

So do you think I go with changing the whole control module, or see if replacing that burnt out harness would be better.
Does you connector look similar to this (stock photo heat damage issue)

132764


That might be the part number for that connector. I am not sure because I got to mine before it was an issue. If you connector looks damaged like this, you may be able to depin it as RPW00Mirage said, and replace the individual female pins (an autoshop or electronics store should carry something similar). Solder them on as well as crimp...I think Hyundai is just drawing too much current through these pins, soldering them may help provide a better electrical connection than the crimps they used
 

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Does you connector look similar to this (stock photo heat damage issue)

View attachment 132764

That might be the part number for that connector. I am not sure because I got to mine before it was an issue. If you connector looks damaged like this, you may be able to depin it as RPW00Mirage said, and replace the individual female pins (an autoshop or electronics store should carry something similar). Solder them on as well as crimp...I think Hyundai is just drawing too much current through these pins, soldering them may help provide a better electrical connection than the crimps they used
Can you link me to this original post. I just pulled the facia off and have the same problem and it's summer in texas
 

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