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Discussion Starter #1
tl:dr listing parts for my new car now my old one is sold and I can afford it.


Sold my old car today and have the cash sitting in my bank account.

Time to finalize some deals and put in some orders for parts. Already got a local workshop that is willing to do some fitment and fabrication work for me. Same mob that worked on my 180SX for over a decade. C-Red Tuning - Japanese Import Car Tuning and Service Specialists (Perth, Western Australia) As some of you might have seen I already asked a bunch of questions about different mods and their worth. I've found truckloads of stuff around the world but unfortunately find little to no local (see: Australian) stock. This means I'm having to do what a lot of you already did and resort to international companies and huge delivery charges.

I'll try to separate my list based on local and international stuff for those who might be interested in checking bits and pieces out. First, two purchases already made on eBay, neither arrived yet but it hasn't been long.

First from a dealer in Melbourne, Vic.

Hyundai Veloster Turbo AND NA AIR OIL Separator Safety Catch CAN | eBay

It's not really an Oil Catch Can per se, rather an Air Oil Separator. Similar but it doesn't hold onto any of the unburnt fuel or oil vapors. Since it was so cheap I thought I'd give it a go and see if it is worth keeping or going for a real Catch Can. Research has shown that OCCs are good if you do a lot of track days or events but may be slight overkill for regular daily drivers like me since I'm not going to be generating a lot of vapor. More to come after a few weeks/month or two of use.

Second is from Korea and cheap but it's just aesthetics, no actual value other than looks.

Genuine Door Striker Cover 4pcs FOR Sonata Tucson IX35 Genesis Elantra Sportage | eBay

As it says, simply a piece of plastic that covers the ugly metal striker plate and its exposed screws. Purely for aesthetics, no real value otherwise.

Another few local Aussie items. Whiteline suspension components. Whiteline do have a series of items specifically for us Veloster owners.

Whiteline Suspension for VELOSTER FS INCL TURBO (3/11-ON)

I'll be going for the Front and Rear Sway Bars plus the Sway Bar Link Assembly. Will probably get the Front Control Arm Caster Bush kit too but have it installed by a suspension shop so they can do an alignment straight after.

Finally for Aussie suppliers, EIBACH Pro Kit Lowering Springs.

Pro Kit Buy suspension from Eibach including adjustable suspension and automotive coil springs.

I've sen a lot of comparisons to the ARK kit that is similar. I'll list that below in the International purchases I'm considering as alternatives. One thing I will say, buying EIBACH is cheaper than buying ARK. I'd save about $60 or so buying local. ARK quoted me $158 international postage. EIBACH will post for $28 since they're delivered from inside Australia.

Now, International stuff (striker covers notwithstanding).

Performance Exhaust System | V-MACH 2N1 Modular Cat-Back Exhaust 2012 - Present Hyundai Veloster Turbo | Performance Exhaust System

SOLO's V-MACH 2N1 Modular Cat-Back Exhaust system. I missed the boat with the forum group buy. Did some research and found about 5 different Performance Exhausts for the VT. JUN BL's GT, BORLA, MAGNAFLOW, ARK's DT-S and SOLO's V-MACH. Decided on the SOLO for a few reasons. Modular system (Resonator or straight thru pipe, buyer has a choice to switch them out), only exhaust with a 3 inch OD pipe and a decent note from all the videos I've found (yes, I know videos don't do it justice, nor the other brands I've watched). I've also talked to C-Red (see link above) about the issue with the rear muffler cracking around the pipe. They will do some reinforcing before it's fitted to try to mitigate the chance of it happening down the track.

Hyundai Veloster | GT-F Lowering Springs 2011-ON | 1.6L

ARK's GT-F Lowering Springs set. Similar drop to the EIBACH above. Funky orange paint scheme. Unfortunately the EIBACH comes out cheaper and is supplied locally (assuming they have stock in the first place, haven't checked on this bit yet). I guess if the EIBACH's turn out to be out of stock I'll go ARK but for now they're my second choice.

12 ON Veloster Veloster Turbo ARK Front Upper Suspension Strut BAR Black | eBay

ARK's Front Strut Brace. Yes, you don't need to tell me, it's a 5 piece kit and it's not going to be as rigid as the ones from other dealers. Frankly, my dears, I don't give a damn. :p

I'm going for aesthetics again. They look good. Also easy to undo with 1 bolt to get the engine cover removed. "But, why aren't you going for the better performing strut braces?" I hear you ask, even tho I already told you above? Between the WHITELINE gear, TURBOSOCKS Rigid Subframe Collars and this Strut Brace I think the car will be more than rigid enough for me as a daily driver.

Speaking of which...

TurboSocks

Yup, our fan favourite TurboSocks Rigid Collar Kit. Did my research, decided they were worthwhile and am now in the process of getting a set shipped to me. The above link and the youtube video it links to is more than enough explanation of what they do. I'm not gonna go into it here.


Without factoring in wrench time from any supplier or workshop and picking one spring set I'm looking at around $2,650-$2750 AUD combined. Thankfully I have more than enough to cover this from selling my old car. Unfortunately for me I also have to factor in somewhere between $600-$1,000 for panelwork (see my other thread) thanks to idiots backing into my car while I'm doing my grocery shopping. Twice! Twice in two weeks! Thankfully it's the same panel, my rear bar.


Hmm, I *MIGHT* have enough to buy a set of new wheels and rubber left over.

Has anyone who has replaced their rims and rubber for a different size/width/offset noticed anything untoward going on with the way the car drives or handles? No train-lining or following road camber more than usual? No crabbing when steering around corners because of different-to-stock parameters?

...oh, and once again, congratulations for reaching the end of this post without falling asleep! :D
 

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I've heard that the front sway is unpleasantly stiff. May consider a front strut bar instead. I found that front strut+rear sway was pretty much the ideal comfort/performance medium for daily driving. I actually liked that combo better before I added the rigid collars, though the collars really didn't change much once the sway/strut was added.
 

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I went with 19 inch wheels 19 x 8.5 + 35 and tyres 235/35/19 ride is comfy. Not lowered.

Also have all the bolt ons. I highly reco Jun BL if you want quality exhaust. Or magnaflow if u want cheap.
 

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no real reason to get the front sway bar IMHO. poly endlinks, yes, but the car rotates nicely with the rest of the list you have up here. and i prefer eibach over ark.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I went with 19 inch wheels 19 x 8.5 + 35 and tyres 235/35/19 ride is comfy. Not lowered.

Also have all the bolt ons. I highly reco Jun BL if you want quality exhaust. Or magnaflow if u want cheap.
Thanks for the tyre and rim size listing. I had been using Online Wheel and Tyre Fitment Calculator. Offset, Tyre Stretch and Speedo Error | Will They Fit to get some idea of the differences from stock. I would have thought a +35 offset might be a bit too much and have it almost kissing the guards when you hit a bump. WillTheyFit says 26.7mm poke. That seems like a lot of extra rubber outside the guards.

I had considered something a little less extreme, but only a little :D 19x8.5 +45 offset (most rims that size seem to be 40 or 45 offset by default) with either 235/35/19 or 245/30/19. Trying to keep close to factory diameter for speedo. I *had* heard talk in various places that going for too excessive an offset might stress the suspension and wheel bearings since the weight was being distributed further away from the axles. Since I'm going to be lowering about an inch I think I'll keep close to stock offset as much as possible, probably +45. (+49 is stock, innit?)

As for the exhausts.. I did contact JUN BL. Never got a reply back. They would have been my first choice originally, even though the exhaust would translate to around $1300 AUD plus delivery. Magnaflow I checked out but decided it was not worth it. Sure it might be cheaper than a lot of others at around $800-odd AUD but no muffler, only a resonator and that's it? SOLO were very quick to get back to me and they've been very helpful with my questions.

I have since bought the SOLO V-MACH 2N1 CatBack. Just waiting delivery.

Also bought the ARK Strut Brace. Just waiting for them to get back to me with an invoice that includes international postage.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
no real reason to get the front sway bar IMHO. poly endlinks, yes, but the car rotates nicely with the rest of the list you have up here. and i prefer eibach over ark.
Poly Endlinks?

I've already contacted Eibach Australia and they will get back to me on a question I haven't seen asked yet. Do the springs work for both the Turbo GDI and the Non Turbo GDI Veloster? I was under the impression that Hyundai had strengthened the suspension for the Turbo model. Have read of plenty of folks using them but strange that noone thought to check. Eibach said they will ask their German office and get back to me in a day or so.

One other strange thing is the price changes between buying them from the actual Eibach shop or buying them online. I was quoted something like $450 thru the shop but online they are listed as $385. This does not include postage of course. Receptionist I talked to said better for me to get them online once we had answered my questions.

I found somewhere that ARK springs are about 30% stiffer than stock. Asked Eibach, they said theirs are 20% stiffer. I also noticed in the images I found that the ARK had less coils overall than Eibach.

Was told they (Eibach) usually keep Veloster springs in stock so I wouldn't have a problem sourcing them. Take mebbe a week postage since it's inside Australia.

More to come as stuff arrives and gets fitted. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
When I say poke I mean how much further out from the hub than the stock wheel will be. 26.7mm bigger track. That's each side of the car of course. I didn't mean poking outside the guards.

Eh, I'll get around to worrying about wheels and rubber later on. My Air Oil Separator arrived today. SOLO Exhaust and ARK Strut Brace should be in the mail. Still waiting to hear back from Eibach about their Pro Kit Springs.

Still waiting on responses from a few places actually. Turbosocks hasn't replied to my emails yet. Never heard back from JUN BL at all and SOLO still have to send me the tracking number.
 

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I have Eibach pro kit installed on my NAV and a few forum members have them installed on their VT. They work for both vehicles. I'm quite happy with the springs so far and haven't noticed any issues. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I have Eibach pro kit installed on my NAV and a few forum members have them installed on their VT. They work for both vehicles. I'm quite happy with the springs so far and haven't noticed any issues. :)
Thanks for the info.

I might just have to poke Eibach myself and remind them they were supposed to get back to me. I figured as much with the springs for both models since I'd read threads where folks said they'd used them but I wasn't sure they were designed for the Turbo model as well.

On the plus side, if I do get them I will be buying local (read: Australian distributor) and not having to wait weeks for international shipping. Ideally I wanna try to finish all these mods before the middle of May as that's when I go back to work.
 

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I've heard that the front sway is unpleasantly stiff. May consider a front strut bar instead. I found that front strut+rear sway was pretty much the ideal comfort/performance medium for daily driving. I actually liked that combo better before I added the rigid collars, though the collars really didn't change much once the sway/strut was added.

no real reason to get the front sway bar IMHO. poly endlinks, yes, but the car rotates nicely with the rest of the list you have up here. and i prefer eibach over ark.
The rigid collars was one of the 1st things I installed. Definitely made a difference, but you have to know what your looking for. Stock you can certainly feel the front end a little loose & when going over speed bumps the car would pancake & almost sound like it's bottoming out. Once I installed the collars that hard clounk when over speed bumps was gone.

After the collars i installed my Eibach Pro Drop kit. Super easy to install. Took me an hour & 20 mins. A little stiffer than stock & it eliminated the sag when launching the car & shifting. With the stock suspension you feel the front end lift & the azz drop when you launch it & even when shifting gears. Eibach's COMPLETELY eliminated that!

After the drop springs I installed the front strut bar. I hear a bunch of people claiming that they don't feel the difference. I certainly did. It eliminating some body roll & the the steering definitely feels tighter. If you've ever been on an on ramp to an expressway & hit a hump or divet in the road you notice the steering wheel kind of jerks. Strut Bar eliminated that!

Then the last suspension mod that I did was the rear sway/strut bar. Wow what a difference this made!!! Eliminated a lot of body roll & it keeps the azz planted at high speeds. Definitely one of the BEST mods you can do on this car. Hyundai honestly should add this bar straight from the factory! Improved the rear end tremendously!

Good Luck with Modding! Check out my Build Thread for pics :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The rigid collars was one of the 1st things I installed. Definitely made a difference, but you have to know what your looking for. Stock you can certainly feel the front end a little loose & when going over speed bumps the car would pancake & almost sound like it's bottoming out. Once I installed the collars that hard clounk when over speed bumps was gone.

After the collars i installed my Eibach Pro Drop kit. Super easy to install. Took me an hour & 20 mins. A little stiffer than stock & it eliminated the sag when launching the car & shifting. With the stock suspension you feel the front end lift & the azz drop when you launch it & even when shifting gears. Eibach's COMPLETELY eliminated that!

After the drop springs I installed the front strut bar. I hear a bunch of people claiming that they don't feel the difference. I certainly did. It eliminating some body roll & the the steering definitely feels tighter. If you've ever been on an on ramp to an expressway & hit a hump or divet in the road you notice the steering wheel kind of jerks. Strut Bar eliminated that!

Then the last suspension mod that I did was the rear sway/strut bar. Wow what a difference this made!!! Eliminated a lot of body roll & it keeps the azz planted at high speeds. Definitely one of the BEST mods you can do on this car. Hyundai honestly should add this bar straight from the factory! Improved the rear end tremendously!

Good Luck with Modding! Check out my Build Thread for pics :cool:
Thanks for all the info, very helpful in confirming what I'd read here and there on the Forum.

I've now got a bunch of stuff, both suspension and otherwise, on the way:

SOLO Exhaust
EIBACH Pro Kit
ARK Strut Brace
TURBOSOCKS Rigid Collars

The Air Oil Separator has already arrived. Will fit after Easter.

I will most likely do the springs same time as doing the rear sway bar. Since the factory front sway bar is not that different from the Whiteline one I will defer getting the Whiteline for now and see how it feels with the other three mods above. I suspect it will be close to exactly what I want.

Talking to a mechanic friend of mine and he mentions that the stock setup should be neutral or force a little understeer. Doing just the rear sway bar will probably force a little oversteer. Be curious to see what stiffer lower springs and a properly mounted front subframe does to the handling characteristics re oversteer vs understeer.
 

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Yes the car defintely has some understeer stock & the body roll definitely doesn't help. Lowering it didn't help much with the understeer, but eliminted a lot of the body roll. Once I installed both bars it completely eliminated the understeer & it feels the way it's supposed to now. No oversteer either. It's pretty much nuetral. Car handles on Rails now!!! Can't wait to AutoX her!!! :cool:
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Yes the car defintely has some understeer stock & the body roll definitely doesn't help. Lowering it didn't help much with the understeer, but eliminted a lot of the body roll. Once I installed both bars it completely eliminated the understeer & it feels the way it's supposed to now. No oversteer either. It's pretty much nuetral. Car handles on Rails now!!! Can't wait to AutoX her!!! :cool:
That was one thing I missed going from a Nissan 180SX with lots of aftermarket handling mods (coilovers, front and rear strut brace, front and rear sway bars, pillow ball adjustable top hats, pillow ball adjustable rear upper wishbones and pillow ball adjustable castor rods, rear diff cradle nolathane bushes, etc) to a stock VT was the complete difference in handling.

My 180 was very surefooted and so sharp in it's handling characteristics. I'm hoping with the fact the VT is a new car, adding a couple grand's worth of parts will make it an even better car, especially in handling which it sounds like it will. :)

Also hoping once I get the exhaust fitted and decide what (if any) intake mod I will do that I'll get similar power out of the VT. Both cars are 200(ish)hp at the flywheel stock. Got my 180 up to around 250-270hp at the flywheel but that also included upping the boost from 6psi to 14. I believe folks are seeing increases from the stock 18psi to around 22 with only intake and exhaust mods. Never did check what horsepower figures other VT folks were getting with mods.
 

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I think most people with basic bolt ons are peaking at 18-19psi. TS boost hack will get you to about 20-22 which is pretty much max w/o going into Limp Mode. BTW Pierce Motorsports has a lot of suspension parts for the Veloster. He has chassis rods, ties, like 3 different styles of strut bar/ sway bars & I think he's working on a Poly Bushing Kit which I'm definitely going to do! Our suspensions are pretty simple so we should start to see more & more parts becoming available as the car grows in popularity.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think most people with basic bolt ons are peaking at 18-19psi. TS boost hack will get you to about 20-22 which is pretty much max w/o going into Limp Mode. BTW Pierce Motorsports has a lot of suspension parts for the Veloster. He has chassis rods, ties, like 3 different styles of strut bar/ sway bars & I think he's working on a Poly Bushing Kit which I'm definitely going to do! Our suspensions are pretty simple so we should start to see more & more parts becoming available as the car grows in popularity.
Ya, I've checked Pierce Motorsports website out. Chassis bracing might be bit overboard. Going with Whiteline for sway bars and nolathane offset bushes mainly 'cos I can get them locally. Already got a strut brace coming from ARK.
 
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