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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys,

I've read some threads on other people having this issue but the problem I need help with is determining if its the switch or the actuator. The ONLY way to open the hatch is to use the manual latch. If you use the FOB, the tailgate switch, or the unlock on the doors it will not unlock. I can also confirm that there is 0 sound coming from the area of the lock when anything is clicked in an attempt to unlock it. My main question is the switch on the tailgate before the actuator, meaning that it could be an issue with the switch, or if nothing unlocks it but the manual way can I just scratch it up as the actuator that needs replacing.

I saw where people were saying there is a tap that breaks off where the gear is, but mine makes 0 sounds when you try to unlock it.

Thanks gents!
 

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With the proximity or smart key in pocket, purse, or hand you only need to press the physical door latch release handle. Pushing the hold button that shows a hatch lid open will do absolutely nothing. Likewise with the remote keyless entry, pushing the hatch hold button simply unlocks it, but you will have to use the door latch release handle to actually open it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thats the issue. The hatch will not open with the physical switch on the outside of the tailgate. It will not unlock at all and will only open if you use the emergency mechanical lever on the inside of the tailgate. I was wondering if there is a possibility that its a bad switch or a bad lock actuator. I'm almost willing to bet its the actuator simply because no method of unlocking the tailgate works, add in the fact that the there is no sound coming from the latch area when you try to unlock it.
 

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I would second your guess of actuator since there's nothing happening when you unlock using any method, but the door locks work fine. That "hold" button literally is there to unlock the hatch independently, I've used it once, to see what it did, lol.
 

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I would not discount the possibility that the battery in your fob is failing. And, this is something I would suggest to check out thoroughly, before starting to go off with other possibilities looking for the correct answer to your problem.

***
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I tried the fob on the spare key. It doesnt work either. The yellow lights in the rear lights flash but no action in the lock area when you hold down the button.
 

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It is possible that it is the entire assembly and not just the actuator. I had to have my rear door handle replaced after the rubber housing started to deteriorate after 4 years. It was under warranty at the time.
 

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I had this same problem. It turned out that the vehicle battery was going bad. A bad battery on this car seems to result in a variety of weird electrical problems. How old is your battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No idea it existed, the little switch or even what demo mode is. Ill have to do some research on that then.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
The "Fuse Switch" is on. I looked at the manual and it says that its supposed to be on. Is this correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
And that is a negative on the actuator. I put it in and plugged it up....nothing. It still will not unlock any way other than the mechanical emergency lever. I guess I'll move to replacing the rubber switch now, but it simply doesn't add up to being a possible issue. Is there a fuse that runs the door locks, particularly the hatch?

Edit: I checked the fuse leading to the tailgate latch relay and it was fine.
 

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The hatches locking mechanism is a known problem throughout the years, as far as i know most everyone had it replaced by Hyundai.

NHTSA ID: 10089501
TSB ID: 5NP-N3T9R-01

On certain 2015-16my veloster (fs) the tailgate handle may not function properly due to an internal issue with the tailgate switch. this condition may affect the tailgate open and closing functionality.
 

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There's a connectivity issue somewhere. Go to a dealership or other mechanic and ask them for their opinion (or repair).
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I'm going to take the switch assembly out and take a look at it, but I'll most likely will have to go to the parts department at the local dealership and order it unfortunately. Here is why I'm having a hard time believing it could be the switch and I very well could be wrong here because I don't read electrical schematics very much.

Door Locks Switch -> Latch Actuator <- Tailgate electric switch or is it possible that a bad switch could be in the circuit before the electric door locks and it being the tailgate switch in the end.

I'm sorry I keep trying to figure this out but I would really like to not get raped by the dealership. I took it in about a month ago and the guy told me it was out of warranty and would cost around $750 to $800 to fix. F that!
 
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