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I looking for good brand alternators for 2016 nonturbo veloster. I have a aftermarket sound system and can’t seem to find good brand alternators that will fit my car any suggestions thank you
 

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2012 Veloster NA, 71 VW Type 3 Fastback, 70 VW type 3 Fastback, 2011 TDI Sportwagen
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Go with an acdelco remanufactured one from rockauto or buy an oem hyundai one from ebay. Unless you happen to be running multiple amplifiers it honestly doesn't matter
 

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weekend racer
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i cant remember the site but you can send one to get rewound and have a higher output.
 

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Is there any truth to what I have heard about hi-output alternators damaging the motor (from the excessive load)? I'd sure think that if some extra load on the accessory belt drive damages a motor, it's a weak POS. But I've also heard of just adding 20 or 30 extra HP to the motors making them grenade as well. Makes me nervous to do any mods to my 2015. I just paid it off a few months back, and it only has 21,000 miles.
 

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weekend racer
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i dont believe that is the case.
 

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Is there any truth to what I have heard about hi-output alternators damaging the motor (from the excessive load)? I'd sure think that if some extra load on the accessory belt drive damages a motor, it's a weak POS. But I've also heard of just adding 20 or 30 extra HP to the motors making them grenade as well. Makes me nervous to do any mods to my 2015. I just paid it off a few months back, and it only has 21,000 miles.
The thing is, you haven't told us how much you're pushing. What are the specs of your sound system? Subs? Amp?
 

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2015 RB Accent not so stock 🤫
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I looking for good brand alternators for 2016 nonturbo veloster. I have a aftermarket sound system and can’t seem to find good brand alternators that will fit my car any suggestions thank you
Have you thought about going with a battery capacitor to help with the extra load for your system?
Batteries are nothing more than big capacitors that store a charge but on a very big scale.
They make smaller audio system capacitors that hold enough of a charge or store a charge capable of giving you all the juice you need without going to a bigger battery or alternator.

The whole effect of an audio capacitor is to smooth out the power spikes from the alternator and keep the voltage at a steady rate so your amps have the current/ voltage it needs.

They're much cheaper to use and would suggest you install one on your bass amp as it will draw the most current when at higher volumes.

It's another alternative than going with a high output alternator and much cheaper too.
Good luck.
 

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'16 Vitamin-C NAV Tech
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Have you thought about going with a battery capacitor to help with the extra load for your system?
Batteries are nothing more than big capacitors that store a charge but on a very big scale.
They make smaller audio system capacitors that hold enough of a charge or store a charge capable of giving you all the juice you need without going to a bigger battery or alternator.

The whole effect of an audio capacitor is to smooth out the power spikes from the alternator and keep the voltage at a steady rate so your amps have the current/ voltage it needs.

They're much cheaper to use and would suggest you install one on your bass amp as it will draw the most current when at higher volumes.

It's another alternative than going with a high output alternator and much cheaper too.
Good luck.
I don't recommend caps as they will put more strain on your alternator than trying to reduce whatever issue OP is trying to reduce.

I had a Taramps 1800 watt 2-Ohm amp pushing my two 12" Rockford Fosgate P3 subwoofers and a Rockford Fosgate R300x4 4-channel amp pushing my door speakers all wired with 4 gauge OFC welding cable in my prior car which was an 05 Ford Focus and barely had any headlight dimming issues unless there was super deep bass playing at a really high volume or the gains were all the way up on the amp. I didn't have a capacitor or 2nd battery either nor did I have a Big 3 upgrade done. I probably could have done the Big 3 upgrade and had that as a precaution but other than that, I went for a 2nd battery and it was pointless as I wasn't requiring a lot of power.

So, all in all OP, without knowing what you're trying to run.. we can only provide so much info. Just don't go spending unnecessary money right away.
 

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I don't recommend caps as they will put more strain on your alternator than trying to reduce whatever issue OP is trying to reduce.
I would beg to differ on this statement. 😉🤷🏼‍♂️
I was in the car stereo industry since 1981 and designed car systems for 19 years installing systems and also designing custom subwoofer enclosures too.
40 years as an electronic tech, 2 years in college for electronics theory, and certified Class A marine electrician so my understanding of how electronics work from a circuit level to marine level electronic systems (I worked the combat systems on the DDG battleships for Northrop Grumman) would say I've been around the industry for quite some time.

Audio electrical capacitors will reduce the strain of alternator outputs because it's the capacitor that discharges the loads of your audio system while your main battery (a capacitor for all intents and purposes) because of it's physical size and farad capacities help the alternator run at a smoother level of charging thereby decreasing strain.

Now as you stated if the system is built correctly with the proper wiring of the proper gauge then a cap is not necessary to have.
And stating that a big 3 isn't needed is one of the first things needed when building a system for audio.
Grounding is placed on the chassis, not directly to the battery due to voltage drop, and running all the cabling for the grounds which is a no no will create a ground loop causing electrical feed back into the audio system.

Proper grounding of the chassis is necessary and if done properly the grounds should be a larger gauge than the power cables but most don't have a clue as to why this should be done.
I won't get into the details on that but a properly wired system as you mentioned will not need a cap at all. BUT 😂 it won't hurt it as the smoothing effect of the voltage/ current spikes will be of benefit to the electrical system as a whole.

Hope that helps. 😷
 

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First and foremost, thank you for your service working on working on battleships and whatnot. All of my life in the car audio industry, I've always been advised to stay away from caps because they do more harm than good. I've also seen a lot of caps being used in bigger car audio installs as well and were told they helped. Regardless, yes the Big 3 is necessary along with proper wiring and grounding but I didn't do it and I was fine.
 

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The thing is, you haven't told us how much you're pushing. What are the specs of your sound system? Subs? Amp?
Sorry - I must have settings wrong, I did not get notified of reply. I am running 2 amps, both Audio Control. Door speakers will be powered via a D-4.800 (fused at 80 Amps) and my 2 subs will be powered via an LC-1.1500 (fused at 160 Amps). The subs are 8 inch Savard HQ. I am keeping the stock amp under the passenger seat for now because I am also running the stock head unit.
 
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