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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I will entirely admit that I forgot to take tons of pictures for the rest of us DIY-ers. Sorry guys!


So too start off, I wanted to give myself plenty of room to work with. So, I removed the Driver and Passengers seats, as well as the entire rear seat. I removed the rear portion of the center storage pedestal as well. To do this, remove the two screws on either side of the box, and then gently pull back on the rear of the center storage pedestal. This will give you access to run cables between the factory amplifier (if you have one) and the amp you are adding. It was also expose the metal bracket that attaches the center pedestal to the floor of the car. I used one of the bolts for this bracket to ground my amplifier. This also helps with accessing the underside of the the center storage box itself, which you will see I did later.



I have no pictures of my +12V cable installation, but I can describe it in detail. I went with a 4Ga cable. I removed the top of the air filter box, and the large hose that attaches the filter box to the throttle body. After this, I completely removed the battery, and behind the battery is what I assume is the ECU for the car. I removed this as well. The two large wire looms on top have a lever disconnect system that allows them to disconnect from the ECU. The right cable must be removed first, just lift up on the portion of the pigtail that you can slide your finder under, and then you will see the slide-lock disengage. After this, pull up on the right pigtail to remove it. The left is the same procedure, except the "fingerhold" is safetied by another push button release. Its pretty obvious, but If anyone needs pictures, I can go take some upon request. Now, remove the ECU itself, by taking off the two nuts and one bolt that hold its mounting bracket to the vehicle. Two are on the strut well, and one is on the lower left corner as you look at the ecu from the front of the vehicle.
Now that you are at this point, you can see the large wire grommet going through the firewall next to the brake master-cylinder. This is where I ran my power cable through. You'll notice that it is protected by a hard plastic shield of some sort. I was not able to remove this shield because one of its mounting nuts is quite snug under the brake booster, but if you remove the nut that is not hidden by the brake booster, you can pull (rather firmly) on the shield and work yourself enough room to gain access to the soft rubber of the grommet. I did not run the 4ga wire through the existing "center hole" in the grommet, but I poked my own hole off to the side. If you choose to do this, be extremely careful that you do not cut or damage any of the wires in this bundle!!! After this, run your power cable through the hole you made, and replace everything you removed, leaving the battery disconnected of course.
After this, the +12V cable will be laying in your drivers seat floorboard. I took off the trim piece at the bottom of the drivers door frame, at that was it. I simply ran the wire behind the kick panel, and then laid it in the wire channel under the trim panel I removed. I dremel'ed a little cutout into that trip piece for the wire to come out of.

This is also a good point to run the speaker wire into the trunk. In the picture above, you can see where the speaker wire goes into the trim panel and where it comes out at the bottom of the rear seat. I was able to "fish" that wire though with none other than a wire coat hanger bent to shape I needed. Make sure to secure this wire against vibration. Don't want the rattles! As you can see, I went for duct tape in this picture (just for fitment), but later came back and put silicone sealant all down the wire to "glue" it to the body of the car. For the portion of wire that is hidden behind the left rear side trim panel, I just left enough slack in the wire that it should be too slack to vibrate against anything if that makes sense at all.

After this, I ran the wires for audio signal to my amplifier. This particular amp, the Kicker 10DX500.1, has high level input capability, so no line-level converter was needed. I followed this diagram to know which wires to tap:

Personally I tapped the rear left and right for signal. Other people may have reason for using other combinations. For the remote-turn-on wire, I tapped the ACC wire in this diagram. As you will see in pictures below, I used a twisted-pair RCA cable and cut the RCA connections off of one side and stripped it to the inner (still insulated) wires. I ran these under the center pedestal, once the seats are installed again, you wont be able to see them. Be careful where you are running the wires. You cant want to get one of them caught in your e-brake assembly. For those that don't know, the post in the center of the RCA is your + and the metal shield on the outside is -. You can use a multimeter on the ohm setting to figure out which bare wire hooks up to what part of the RCA connector. Now, for my ACC wire, I used this as a positive feed to a switch I mounted in the center console storage box.... you'll see why a little later. That's about it for actual install, after this, just clean everything up, replace what you've removed from the car, and enjoy you new system....

Here's the pictures of mine completed:


Here you can see why I went with shallowmounts... I still have a good amount of trunk space:


Here are the only two wires visible in my car:


The amplifier, under the drivers seat. The seat has to be slid all the way forward to reveal this, but its hidden with the seat in my normal driving position, since I'm 6 feet tall.
It is anchored in place with none other than hot glue at the corners. Most people would call this ghetto, and I agree, Except it works, it doesn't involve putting holes in the floor under the driver's seat (the fuel lines are on the other side of the the floor in this location, so I was uncomfortable putting holes in the floor) and its easily enough removed with a heat gun or a razor. That nasty bundle of wire on the right side there runs to my remote bass control knob. It is basically a 25 foot long phone cable (intended for installing the knob under the dash while the amp is in the trunk), so for the time being I just bundled it up and set it there. It will be replaced soon with another phone cable of a much lesser length.


Here is the switch and knob mentioned earlier, mounted inside of the center armrest storage box. The bottom of the storage box is false, and made of feltboard. Under the feltboard, there is a large pre-existing hole that I ran the wires for the switch and the knob through. The switch itself is mounted inside a small radio shack project box. The Bass control knob is mounted to the box, and the box is velcro'd to the inside of the storage box. The switch has three prongs on its backside, (power) (acc) (gnd). The power comes from the ACC wire on the factory amp. The (gnd) goes to the same bolt that grounds the Kicker amp, and the (acc) goes to the remote turn on port on the Kicker amp.



Hope this helps someone, and feel free to ask questions and give me your opinions. I'll also gladly go take pictures of what anyone is wondering about!
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Curious why there are 2 (+) and 2 (-) outputs for one stock subwoofer.
The stock sub doesn't have a channel of its own. It is just a dual voice coil sub, with one voice coil tied to the rear left speaker, and one voice coil tied to the rear right speaker. The stock sub is also a joke... 20W RMS, 40W Peak. I left mine in and hooked up, but only to let it bridge the gap between my Subs and Dimension system. The whole setup sounds pretty good surprisingly. Not quite what I'd love as an audiophile, but I only spend maybe 30 minutes a day in the Veloster. My real passion lies in my home audio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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The stock sub doesn't have a channel of its own. It is just a dual voice coil sub, with one voice coil tied to the rear left speaker, and one voice coil tied to the rear right speaker. The stock sub is also a joke... 20W RMS, 40W Peak. I left mine in and hooked up, but only to let it bridge the gap between my Subs and Dimension system. The whole setup sounds pretty good surprisingly. Not quite what I'd love as an audiophile, but I only spend maybe 30 minutes a day in the Veloster. My real passion lies in my home audio.
So which wires on the stock amp did you tap into for your new subs? Im assuming 12 (WOOFER LEFT +) and 25 (WOOFER LEFT -) to one and 13 (WOOFER RIGHT +) and 26 (WOOFER RIGHT -) to the other. Is that correct? In your diagram ( I believe you got that from the shop section) those spots are only labeled "switch -/= etc". In the schematics section they are labeled with woofer left +/- etc.

This is what I got off the hyundai service website in the schematic section..

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b518/surfmenace/AMP_zps3ab0f99f.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
So which wires on the stock amp did you tap into for your new subs? Im assuming 12 (WOOFER LEFT +) and 25 (WOOFER LEFT -) to one and 13 (WOOFER RIGHT +) and 26 (WOOFER RIGHT -) to the other. Is that correct? In your diagram ( I believe you got that from the shop section) those spots are only labeled "switch -/= etc". In the schematics section they are labeled with woofer left +/- etc.

This is what I got off the hyundai service website in the schematic section..

http://i1289.photobucket.com/albums/b518/surfmenace/AMP_zps3ab0f99f.jpg

Weird, now that you show me that I can see that Hyundai's website has conflicting information. Personally I tapped the rear left and right speakers, and ran that to my amp. I was going off of the wiring diagram that I put up. I'd be interested to find out whether those wires are some form of switch, or they really are the subwoofer outputs. Either way, I would tap the rear left and right, that way you amplifier is delivered the "full content" of your music. If it exists, the subwoofer channel is probably ran through a software crossover inside of the head unit, and as silly as this may sound, its better to deliver the full range to your sub amplifier, and let it do the job on what you set your High and Low pass filters too, than just to give the amplifier only what the stock subwoofer gets.

On a side note, I'll tap those wires and see what they do! Good catch on that, I'd really like to "evolve" this thread to a much better "how to" and this will definitely help.


Edit:
Wow, I have to say, great find. I unplugged the "C" connector to kill all the speakers that it powers, and started the car....
and amazingly, the center speaker and subwoofer still worked. I disconnected the "B" connector and the center speaker stopped working, but the Sub continued. This is the first I think ANYONE has ever noticed this about our cars. I'm going to start a new thread on this, but you will receive full credit for the find.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·

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would you mind snapping us a pic under the hood of where you ran the power lead through the firewall? im replacing the entire base model sound system, sony xplod in each door, rockford fosgate punch 10" shallow in the trunk, and a kenwood 700-5 under one of the front seats (most likely the drivers side like yours)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
would you mind snapping us a pic under the hood of where you ran the power lead through the firewall? im replacing the entire base model sound system, sony xplod in each door, rockford fosgate punch 10" shallow in the trunk, and a kenwood 700-5 under one of the front seats (most likely the drivers side like yours)
Sorry it took me so long to see this, I certainly will as soon as I get home. Give me about 4 hours!


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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Sorry it took me so long to see this, I certainly will as soon as I get home. Give me about 4 hours!
Well, we gave you about 5 1/2 years, wheres the pics?

Haha
 
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