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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I own a 2015 Hyundai Veloster turbo
•Current Mileage 111,192
•Running oil catch can
•injen short ram intake
•changed coolant(radiator flush)
•Mobil 1 full synthetic 5-30 (oem filter)
•NGK Laser IRIDIUM spark plugs
• regular tire rotation
• premium (91 Mobil) one gasoline
•pcv valve vent to atmosphere( plugged off intake so no oil is introduced back into the air intake)

I would like to know what sensors, filters etc that needs regular maintenance.
I don’t have an check engine light (never had one) but I want to avoid ever having one.

Never touched or replaced any sensors
Is there anything I’m missing at this mileage as far as maintenance?
I’m want to spoil my car as well as maintenance it to the maximum.
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2015 RB Accent not so stock 🤫
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So I own a 2015 Hyundai Veloster turbo
•Current Mileage 111,192
•Running oil catch can
•injen short ram intake
•changed coolant(radiator flush)
•Mobil 1 full synthetic 5-30 (oem filter)
•NGK Laser IRIDIUM spark plugs
• regular tire rotation
• premium (91 Mobil) one gasoline
•pcv valve vent to atmosphere( plugged off intake so no oil is introduced back into the air intake)

I would like to know what sensors, filters etc that needs regular maintenance.
I don’t have an check engine light (never had one) but I want to avoid ever having one.

Never touched or replaced any sensors
Is there anything I’m missing at this mileage as far as maintenance?
I’m want to spoil my car as well as maintenance it to the maximum.
View attachment 134427 View attachment 134428 View attachment 134429
Change your Bank1 O2 sensor as it's getting at that point of needing to be replaced. That's the sensor directly on the down pipe before the cat.
Wouldn't hurt to change the map/ iat sensor as well.
Gas cap could use it as the seal wears out and could cause a check engine light and might as well change the radiator cap to a 1.3 bar for a bit better cooling.

Those are pretty much the main sensors to change at the 100,000 mile mark and is preventative in nature. Better to replace before they go bad. 🤷🏼‍♂️😁
 

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This is good practice, however, my mindset if it ain't broke, Im not fixin it. lol

I always wait for DTC's, but going by your manual is pretty solid. 45k on plugs

Fluids are the main thing; did not list a transmission, so that fluid is good to do.
 

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2015 RB Accent not so stock 🤫
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This is good practice, however, my mindset if it ain't broke, Im not fixin it. lol

I always wait for DTC's, but going by your manual is pretty solid. 45k on plugs

Fluids are the main thing; did not list a transmission, so that fluid is good to do.
Haha that's the two schools of thought that both work. 👍😁
Just keep it maintained and the smiles per miles will always be there for a long time. 🤙🤟
 

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weekend racer
2014 VT manual
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112k thats still less than my mileage.

should be on 3rd set of plugs at this point, 135k next change gapped to .028
getting ready for 2nd serpentine belt change at 120k
coolant should have been changed at 90 or 100k
trans fluid if manual 2nd change is at 120k

mobil 1 oil is not great for these cars, either use pennzoil ultra platinum or equivalent top tier synthetic. and a hyundai filter.

if theres no codes and it runs fine don't change stuff lol i literally beat the fuck out of my car every other weekend racing and have been for 7 years now... just the basic stuff has gone bad - pads/rotors ive changed calipers and soft lines, turbo solenoids, due to wear or codes. evap stuff new gas cap and pcv and evap solenoids engine side and gas tank side, new charcoal canister.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Change your Bank1 O2 sensor as it's getting at that point of needing to be replaced. That's the sensor directly on the down pipe before the cat.
Wouldn't hurt to change the map/ iat sensor as well.
Gas cap could use it as the seal wears out and could cause a check engine light and might as well change the radiator cap to a 1.3 bar for a bit better cooling.

Those are pretty much the main sensors to change at the 100,000 mile mark and is preventative in nature. Better to replace before they go bad. 🤷🏼‍♂️😁
Thank you for this information I’ll be doing this today as I’ve got paid lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
This is good practice, however, my mindset if it ain't broke, Im not fixin it. lol

I always wait for DTC's, but going by your manual is pretty solid. 45k on plugs

Fluids are the main thing; did not list a transmission, so that fluid is good to do.
Love that lol thanks man
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
112k thats still less than my mileage.

should be on 3rd set of plugs at this point, 135k next change gapped to .028
getting ready for 2nd serpentine belt change at 120k
coolant should have been changed at 90 or 100k
trans fluid if manual 2nd change is at 120k

mobil 1 oil is not great for these cars, either use pennzoil ultra platinum or equivalent top tier synthetic. and a hyundai filter.

if theres no codes and it runs fine don't change stuff lol i literally beat the fuck out of my car every other weekend racing and have been for 7 years now... just the basic stuff has gone bad - pads/rotors ive changed calipers and soft lines, turbo solenoids, due to wear or codes. evap stuff new gas cap and pcv and evap solenoids engine side and gas tank side, new charcoal canister.
Is Royal purple good to use?
 

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Ive been trying to read about the Mobil 1 problem, but its hard to come up with a conclusion. Seems like it thins out, not sure if they used wrong viscosity, not sure. Plenty others using it for sure; probably millions!

RPW might know, but trying to find this "x" character...

-X- said:
Mobil1 is a group III mineral-based oil and has been shown to cause sludge in this engine, especially if you go past 3000 miles.

The only group III oil I recommend is Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, as it is designed to protect against LSPI.

Ideally you want a group IV (PAO-based) or group V (ester-based) oil with the highest flashpoint possible.

I understand if you are a Mobil1 head from years past. I used to run it in non-GDI vehicles with no issues. However, it just isn't a good oil for this T-GDI engine.


 

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weekend racer
2014 VT manual
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unfortunately he has passed ...

i have the dealer change my oil 3000-3500 just quaker state conventional in there.
 

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Oh wow, yeah, seems like all his posts just vanished, never seen that.

Toogq I remember had a video, now I am putting it together, thanks!

 

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I just read this and learned a ton.

Royal purple is on the best list period.
HPS formula by spec alone is best for our cars and engines.
Spec data sheets when compared to other oils don't lie. RP is one of the best.

I'm also changing to the RP MaxGear gear oil for the tranny. Again specs dink lie and comparing to the MT85 AmSoil the RP is better.
I even got in touch with their technical dept and confirmed what I'd already seen in the data sheets.

Im a believer. 😂🤷🏼‍♂️🖕🏻😉
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I just read this and learned a ton.

Royal purple is on the best list period.
HPS formula by spec alone is best for our cars and engines.
Spec data sheets when compared to other oils don't lie. RP is one of the best.

I'm also changing to the RP MaxGear gear oil for the tranny. Again specs dink lie and comparing to the MT85 AmSoil the RP is better.
I even got in touch with their technical dept and confirmed what I'd already seen in the data sheets.

Im a believer. 😂🤷🏼‍♂️🖕🏻😉
Sweet Appreciate it
 
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