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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Got a 2014 VT and just rolled over 100k miles. Ready to replace the suspension, it's not too bad but it's getting a little clunky and the ride quality is starting to get a bit worse. Willing to bet my shocks and struts are starting to go.

While I'm at it, I decided to try to do a minor upgrade to see if I can improve it a little while keeping it daily driver worthy. I decided to go with an H&R spring kit with only a 1" on the front and .6" on the rear lower. Looks like the H&Rs might be a better quality than the stock springs.

I also decided on a KYB strut and shock kit for the fronts and rears. Saw good comments about them and didn't think it would be worth paying almost double for Konis. If I wanted to spend that much, I'd be more in the range of full coilovers.

Here's where I think I got the right parts, but want to make sure. I picked out a camber bolt kit and some strut mounts for the front. From what I gather, I only need a pair of each for the front suspension, it doesn't look like I need a replacement mount for the rears and saw another forum post saying DON'T mess with camber kits on the rear.

Finally, I was trying to pick out good quality replacement boots. Are these only for the struts or will they work for the shocks too? Also, I narrowed down to three different models, wondered what you would recommend as the best of these boots. Monroe 63632, Monroe SA1997, or KYB SB132.

Looking forward to the feedback. Love my VT and hope I still have a lot of miles left in it!
 

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2014 VT manual
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kyb shocks and HR springs will be fine. avoid kyb strut mounts at all costs and purchase OEM only.

what camber bolt kit did you buy? one bolt per side up front, upper strut knuckle bolt only.

chances are your existing boots are OK. the 63632 would work just fine.

rear camber change requires a little advanced knowledge and assembly can go wrong. you need to know the alignment and camber to start, the tone ring kit, and a few different thicknesses of washers. eyeballing it is probably not going to be good enough at all.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Camber bolts I put on the list are Specialty Products Company 81260. They had good reviews on Amazon, but hence posting on the forums. Glad to know to stay away from the KYB mounts.

If I wanted to replace the boots anyway just to be on the safe side, should I grab a set of four or do they only go on the fronts? Can't see the back ones without taking off some panels.

The rear springs will only change the height by .6" and based on the shop, sounds like there isn't a need to mess with rear camber kits. Only mentioned a set of camber bolts.
 

· weekend racer
2014 VT manual
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those spc bolts are the same ones i have for sale right now. i used them last season but removed them when i blew 2 konis on the front right. not related to the bolts. plus i do my own alignments with longacre plates and some drywall lasers.

the rear is a complete shock unit, no boots are required.

the only camber related trouble in the rear is if your tires are too wide and hit the fenders. if you use the stock 17x7 nav wheels you can totally dump it i think. the camber doesn't change.
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Where would you buy oem strut mounts? Napa has em at about $90 a piece which seems steep. Rock Auto looks like they have the Hyundai branded ones for $20 a piece, no pictures though. Definitely want to go safe after seeing what a bad mount can do.
 

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2015 RB Accent not so stock 🤫
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If you are dropping the car with the H&R springs you may want to get some adjustable front swaybar end links.

Stick links are rigid and designed for the stock setup.
Lower the car even an inch and the stock swaybar links will bind the the suspension on the down stroke causing an odd feel to the front end if spirited driving.

Adjustable can be set to give a neutral setup like stock to a lowered car so you have full range of motion in the compression and rebound of your suspension.

KDMTuners has these available and will be a good addition to your setup. 👍
 

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i have not had that trouble with the stock links binding in my experience lowered further than an inch on coils for two racing seasons.
 
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i have not had that trouble with the stock links binding in my experience lowered further than an inch on coils for two racing seasons.
I wonder how much better the car would be with adjustable links.
Neutral bar vs even a slightly preloaded bar will always be better handling even if it's minuscule. 😜

When I installed my H&R springs I set the adjustable links the same as stock before installation.
After install and preloading the suspension I did have to adjust to set a neutral preload.
It wasn't much but enough to see that's what these adjustable links are made for. 👍
 

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you get deep enough to realize no mods matter without a limited slip. no amount of stickiness or suspension fixes that :(
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I might hold off on the links, see how it handles. If it feels like it's not staying straight on cruise or body rolling funny, then I bet I'll need the links. The biggest thing I'm hoping to improve is the shuddering the stock suspension seems to have. I have a lot of rough roads and train tracks where I drive. I hate the feeling that the car is leaving the road when I hit that stuff, especially when it's at a diagonal to the wheels. The rear is definitely worse than the front and I've noticed it gradually getting worse the last 10-20k miles. H&R looks like they use a dual rate spring for the rear which I bet will make a difference.

Handling wise, the car is pretty good overall. I think the slight lower will make it feel a bit better in the curves, but the wheel upgrade helped a lot there too. I might consider an LSD someday for fun, but honestly this has more than enough acceleration for a DD and I've never gotten the chance to do any track driving. If it feels too soft in the curves then I could go with sway bars, but I doubt the H&Rs will do that.
 
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