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'13 Turbo 6MT
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Tonight I was leaving a fast food drive-through and pulling out onto a surface street. I felt something that could have been a cough/sputter, a rough area of road, or both (leaning toward 1 or 3), looked down at my tachometer, and saw it wave around (not over a wide range, but noticeably) before going to zero. At first I thought I the engine had died, but I hit the starter button to try to restart and it just beeped at me. Then I realized that a dead engine should have acted a brake on the drive wheels and hit the gas to see if it was still running. It was. It felt slightly anemic, but could move well enough to be indefinitely driveable. My first instinct was to turn it off and back on again, but then I realized that if there was some strange electrical gremlin on the loose, I might not get it started again, so I kept driving.

The next thing I noticed was that the average fuel economy display had frozen up and was no longer changing. To confirm this, I reset the display and it did return to its default reading of --.- MPG, from which it did not budge for the rest of the drive. Despite the non-functional tachometer, the car did seem to still be aware of its RPM or something similar to it, as the upshift indicator was still operational (may run off wheelspeed + gear rather than RPM, not sure). More testing confirmed that the anemic feeling was not a fluke; the car had gone into some kind of limp mode with a fairly restrictive throttle limiter. Stepping on the gas past a certain point just wouldn't affect acceleration. I also noticed at stoplights that it seemed to be idling higher than usual, and perhaps with a boomier exhaust note as well (which disappeared once moving).

Once I got home, I did turn it off and back on again, and it worked. Normal idle RPM and sound were back, tachometer was back, average MPG was back (and seemed to have still been keeping score while visually frozen), and I could use full throttle again.

At no point during this entire episode did a CEL illuminate, and there is no sign of rod knock that I can detect.

I'm calling the shop about it tomorrow morning, but right now I strongly suspect that some cable connected to the ECU wasn't hooked up properly and is coming loose. Sound plausible?
 

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weekend racer
2014 VT manual
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8,683 Posts
how is your battery and volts?

i wouldn't suspect the ECU cables, as they are literally force-locked to the ecu by the levers.
 

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Mine has been acting in the same manner the past week. It had stalled while running at idle and would not restart. Next day I got a quick jump and it started and after a few miles toward home it stalled again. I put a 2 amp charger on for half a day. That's when I heard a hum I blamed on the starter solenoid not getting enough juice yet. Was like that till I decided to jump ut with my elaborate. Fired right up. Seemed to run ok till a short way on the highway I couldn't do much more than 60mph and when I tried down shifting to 5th the rpms rose as expected but, I was only able to do 65. I brought some up very slowly and was finally able to get up to speed. I made it to my destination and put my buddies fancy charger on it and found that it was good, taking a 2amp 12volt charge, and at 80% capacity. Reading the response about replacing the the battery almost released a sigh of relief. Will find out tomorrow how the fully charged battery does and start shopping for a new one.
 

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'13 Turbo 6MT
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks to all for the responses.

UPDATE: Battery cables are securely fastened to battery. Car coughed hard again on the way to work today. Stopped at AutoZone for battery test, was told that battery was at 84% and the charging system was working perfectly; the employee who helped me said the engine actually sounded really good at idle. Engine stalled when pulling into parking space at work.

Coming home I was extremely paranoid and was driving very slowly so that if it cut out again it'd be at a lower RPM and would suffer fewer potentially-unlubricated revolutions before refiring. I also planned to stomp the clutch immediately, let the engine die, and then restart it normally instead of risking more potentially-unlubricated bump starts. The first time it cut out, it was back to normal before I could hit the clutch - no oil pressure or voltage light on the cluster. The second time, I did clutch in, and it seemed to struggle to idle at about 200 RPM for a short time (that was when the lights finally came on) before stalling completely. This time, it took a couple seconds and possibly some gas pedal work (not sure if it helped or not) to get it to come back, and it did so with the dead tachometer and frozen trip computer.

After I got home, I refired it again to see if that would fix it again. It struggles to start for several seconds, I feather the gas some more, it comes back on in failsafe mode with the tachometer still dead, and it finally throws a CEL. If the battery and charging system are good then I have no idea what would cause this... dying fuel pump, maybe?

Tomorrow, if possible and if all goes to plan, I will rent a code reader from AutoZone. Hopefully that can provide more clues.
 

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weekend racer
2014 VT manual
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could certainly be fuel related. have you had the fuel line recall done? 2013s were also notorious for having gunk in the fuel tank pickup.
 
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'13 Turbo 6MT
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
could certainly be fuel related. have you had the fuel line recall done? 2013s were also notorious for having gunk in the fuel tank pickup.
No idea, bought the car used in May 2020. Will transmit this information to the shop.
 

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'13 Turbo 6MT
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Codes are all crankshaft position sensor A circuit. P0335 generic stored, generic pending, and generic permanent. Starts up in failsafe mode with RPM going much higher on startup than usual, and the engine shakes hard at around 2000 RPM (smooths out below and above that).
 
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2015 RB Accent not so stock 🤫
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Codes are all crankshaft position sensor A circuit. P0335 generic stored, generic pending, and generic permanent. Starts up in failsafe mode with RPM going much higher on startup than usual, and the engine shakes hard at around 2000 RPM (smooths out below and above that).
Change the crank sensor, do an ecu reset and go from there. 👍 Good luck
 
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