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2012 Veloster NA, 71 VW Type 3 Fastback, 68 VW Beetle, 2011 TDI Sportwagen
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So after reading through way too many threads talking about other DCT issues I haven't really found any threads discussing similar batch of issues.
2012 Hyundai Veloster NA with DCT at ~108K
Symptoms:
  • RPM gauge drops straight to 0 (engine still running)
  • Transmission cuts out completely (no forward, reverse or sport mode gears
  • push button start hangs up like there's no fuel. (press button for a second or two and it just tries to start the engine for about 20-30 seconds until it begrudgingly turns the car on)
  • check engine light comes on (tbd, waiting for my wife to come home from work to take me to the auto part store)
  • after waiting between 20-45 minutes with the car off it will eventually start normally and all those functions return.
Happened the first time a week ago pulling into my neighborhood around 20mph (standard automatic mode) approximately 10 miles traveled, happened on the return trip
Happened again today while traveling around 65 mph on the highway (standard automatic mode) approximately 85 miles traveled, happened on the return trip less than a quarter mile from my house.

I read someone mention check the grounds as a first step but I wasn't sure if there were specific grounds to check or just check every last one.
Anyone know of a good place to start checking for issues otherwise? I'm starting to consider looking into the manual swap feasibility or just selling the car and buying something more serviceable (to me)

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work/checks done after first occurrence:
  • replaced the PCV valve
  • checked the DCT transmission fluid level and color (level is fine, color is fine)
  • checked for oil/grease leaks in the entire engine bay/under side of engine (none, surprisingly very clean still)
  • checked coolant and oil levels and color, both check out fine.
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Warranty/Dealership info:
I'm the second owner and far outside the warranty period.
The closest Hyundai Dealer is 25 miles away, closet Kia dealer is 6 miles away
I'm about 90% tooled up to work on cars myself, just don't have a code reader for non-VW/Audi Stuff
 

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Registered
2012 Veloster NA, 71 VW Type 3 Fastback, 68 VW Beetle, 2011 TDI Sportwagen
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Yeah, I had to wait for a ride but I ended up just buying a scanner so I don't have to keep running out. Pulled P0335(three times) and P0420
P0335 is Crankshaft position sensor A Circuit
P0420 is Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)

I'll have the wife's car tomorrow to swing by the local Kia dealer to pick up the 39190-2B000 Crank position senor (same part number as the Hyundai one) after replacing that i'll take a look at the emission system to see what's going on there.
 

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weekend racer
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7,211 Posts
sounds like a good start - fix the CPS, reset the ECU and maybe P0420 will go away.
 

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Registered
2012 Veloster NA, 71 VW Type 3 Fastback, 68 VW Beetle, 2011 TDI Sportwagen
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
So after a little bit of run around with the Kia parts guys (claims that Hyundai and Kia's share 0 parts) they did not have any CPS in stock from the part number. Ended finding out that Amazon sells the OEM Hyundai ones for $20 and $32 after rush 2 day shipping. Also picked up an additional batch of OEM oil filters. I'll update you guys when i make some progress on things.
 

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2012 Veloster NA, 71 VW Type 3 Fastback, 68 VW Beetle, 2011 TDI Sportwagen
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48 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
If you're still running on the original battery, then I would say to get a new battery. A lot of your kind of problems originate because of a poorly performing battery.
battery health checked out fine but it is the original battery.

New Crank position sensor is in and I cleared the code. short test drive around the neighborhood and the code stayed off but i did get a temporary U1103 code for "lost communication with TGS Lever"

based on a few sites that had explanations on the code, i may also have a bad O2 sensor or it could have just been adjusting to the new Crank position sensor. I'll put some miles on the car over the weekend to see if anything else pops up.
 

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286 Posts
So after a little bit of run around with the Kia parts guys (claims that Hyundai and Kia's share 0 parts) they did not have any CPS in stock from the part number. Ended finding out that Amazon sells the OEM Hyundai ones for $20 and $32 after rush 2 day shipping. Also picked up an additional batch of OEM oil filters. I'll update you guys when i make some progress on things.
It's ironic that most of the service and parts guys really have no clue about what they stock or what will interchange with another family label. ? Hence I have zero trust in the dealerships and my new Hyundai has never went back to one since it rolled off the showroom floor. ?

Like these other guys have said please change out your battery to a new one.
Like you I thought my 5 year old battery was strong until it left me stranded. 3 times.
Luckily I always carry a set of welding cable jumper cables I built years ago for such an occasion. ???
New battery is in and runs like a champ.

Glad you got it fixed and running good. ???
 
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