Veloster Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
'13 Turbo 6MT
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I got a new job, it's paying me well, however to get that money I've had to work 50+ hours a week for the past several weeks. Now summer is half gone and I'm still rolling on winter tires. At least now I can afford to replace wheels + tires simultaneously.

Alaska has no race tracks except for a couple ovals and a drag strip. The closest we have to a road course is a few very nasty backroads that get an annoying amount of tourist traffic. The one I hit most often is probably rougher than a lot of tarmac rally stages, another has almost as much tar as it does regular pavement. This leaves me with the task of selecting wheels which are light enough to enhance or at least preserve performance and steering feel, while simultaneously being durable enough to headbutt cracks and potholes at high speed without damage (and certainly without folding over on themselves). The tires must similarly be nice and sticky (especially in the wet, which rules out a lot of otherwise good choices) but durable enough to avoid blowing out when hitting large bumps.

Checking Tire Rack, they seem to think you can go as small as a 16" wheel on a 2013 Veloster Turbo, which I frankly have a hard time believing; in any case, would it be worth going down an inch or two for lighter weight and/or better durability, or would that start to exact a heavy toll on steering and handling? Selecting for the lightest wheels in each size gave me Enkei RPF1 and OZ Allegerita HLT in 16, 17, and 18" sizes; the RPF1 apparently has a good reputation for combining performance and durability, but a user on Tire Rack claims his are constantly getting bent by potholes and needing repair. For 19", the only wheel that came up under 22 pounds each was OZ Leggera HLT.

For tires, some I found were Bridgestone Potenza Sport, Pirelli P Zero Nero and PZ4, Michelin Pilot Super Sport, and Yokohama Advan A052 (which, looking at the tread pattern, doesn't seem like it'd be any good in the rain, but apparently it is). Some of these would require slightly alternate sizes, so what sizes will and won't fit? Other than getting access to a better make/model tire, are there any known performance reasons to run a wider or taller tire than TR recommended?

TR usually seems to recommend the same tire size for a given diameter wheel on a given car, even if the wheel width is different; a narrower wheel will obviously be lighter, but is there some counterbalancing advantage to a wider wheel with the same size tire?
 

·
weekend racer
2014 VT manual
Joined
·
9,470 Posts
16 fits fine, lol RPF1 are fine as well and potholes are part of the game with wider, thinner tires. they don't absorb road shock well like a wheel with a much taller tire (like on a sonata).

a052 are cool, if you look at hoosier rain tires they are comparable tread.

i am using 17x7.5 with a 235/45 on it with no trouble until the tread is about 60% worn. falken rt660 . i bent a rim and a control arm hitting a chunk of concrete on the highway 2 years ago. they were enkei wheels :)
 

·
Registered
'13 Turbo 6MT
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
16 fits fine, lol RPF1 are fine as well and potholes are part of the game with wider, thinner tires. they don't absorb road shock well like a wheel with a much taller tire (like on a sonata).

a052 are cool, if you look at hoosier rain tires they are comparable tread.

i am using 17x7.5 with a 235/45 on it with no trouble until the tread is about 60% worn. falken rt660 . i bent a rim and a control arm hitting a chunk of concrete on the highway 2 years ago. they were enkei wheels :)
I've been asking this question around in other places as well and r/touge is kind of scaring me on the wheel choice re: possibility of the wheel simply breaking when hit hard enough, though that poster was talking about ultra light wheels in general rather than RPF1s specifically - though I do have to admit the thin spokes do not fill me with confidence. Have you heard anything about Braid wheels? BRAID Wheels USA | The Last Wheels You'll Ever Need

Maybe what I should have asked first is, how much do the stock wheels weigh? That way I'll know what I'm trying to save weight relative to.

How hard do you beat that wheel/tire setup in terms of g loading, harsh bumps, etc? I'd pretty much decided to go with 235/45-17 on a 17x8 wheel to minimize "reverse stretch" and the resulting issues, but if sidewall distortion, keeping bead, etc. are not issues with the same tires on a 7.5 wide, and wheel strength isn't significantly worse, then I might go with that to save the little bit of extra weight.

How far out can you go in terms of offset before you start to have issues with steering geometry, scrub radius, fender contact under compression, etc?

I also received this comment WRT tire selection, emphasis mine:

u/jibsand of Redditland said:
Oh well then.
Definitely check out 300tw tires. Firehawk Indy is a staple, but definitely a budget tire. Conti ECS is what M3s come with, this is what I have installed on my ND. Falken 615k+ is street racing tire but if your road are unpredictable and broken up I wouldn't run tires that are track ready.
I'm not sure if the issue here is with durability or controllability, but I definitely don't want blowouts. As for his recommendation of ExtremeContact Sport, I found this review on Tire Rack, emphasis also mine:

A 2018 Toyota Corolla iM driver from New Jersey posting a review on Tire Rack said:
This is my first summer tire, I got a lot of enjoyment out of them. Constantly running touge every weekend (So you know I was beating on it). However, my mixed daily driving caused some uneven camber wear. Definitely recommend you rotate them more often. Wish I got a little more life out of it but knowing the other tires in the category I probably wouldn't be able to get anymore tread life in the competition. Side wall is on the softer end so I don't recommend dropping the tire pressure too low at some points I was riding sidewall. 34 psi was pretty safe for me.
(For reference, my door sticker says Hyundai's recommended pressure for this car is 32 psi.)
 

·
weekend racer
2014 VT manual
Joined
·
9,470 Posts
my enkei m52 is +50 i believe . i am on konis and rspec springs.

i would say i beat the wheels up pretty good. i have used them for 2 seasons now and no indication of any trouble with rim or tire except when i hit the concrete, i bought a new wheel.

stock wheel is around 26lbs.
 

·
Registered
'13 Turbo 6MT
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
At this point, I've pretty much settled on a 17x8 wheel with Continental ExtremeContact Sport tires in 235/45-17. I have not, however, settled on a specific wheel. Again, I'd not like to cause a crash because a wheel shattered or folded over on itself hitting a bump at speed, so while I would like to save some unsprung weight, the wheel I choose has to be strong as well. For what it's worth, my stock wheels have taken all sorts of nastiness without complaint, but are showing some curb rash from the previous owner. Likely they'll end up being used for dedicated winter tires.

I assume 5x114 and 5x114.3 are the same thing; I've seen both mentioned for this car. Here's what I've found for wheels so far; weight is easy to find, accurate information on strength is not so much. What follows is a dump of every wheel I could find on Tire Rack, BRAID USA, or Discount Tire Direct that might fit this car and that weighs less than 25 pounds each in this size. Most will be trash. If I'd started looking paying attention to load ratings sooner I probably could have narrowed this down a lot.

In the 15-pound class, we've got O.Z. Allegerita HLT. Weighing in at 15.55 or 15.6 pounds each depending on color, it's the lightest 17x8 I've found, and one TR review calls it "durable" - based on what, I don't know. They are, however, very expensive, and all backordered on Tire Rack, so with summer already slipping away, that's a bit of a turnoff unless there's an alternate source somewhere. I'd rather not wait another month to get my wheels and tires.

In the 18 pound class, we start off with O.Z. Ultraleggera. Still very light at 17.45 or 17.6 pounds each depending on finish, and actually in stock. I did see this review:
had my Subaru dealership do everything installation wise and turned out great. The ride is pretty good, I try to avoid all bumps and holes in the road but sometimes I have no option and end up hitting them. The wheels seem pretty solid and don't think they'll break unless you hit something monstrous but, avoiding everything you can except nice smooth road is a no brain-er.
But others mentioned them eating potholes that would have bent other rims, including one that destroyed the tire (18" fitment on a '17 Golf R). As usual with reviews, that's still not enough information to truly know the conditions they held up under.

The second choice in this class is Enkei PF01. Weight varies by offset, the 50mm offset version runs 16.8, 16.9, or 17 pounds depending on finish, while the 48mm offset version runs much lighter for some reason at 15.8 pounds. Unless this comes with a strength reduction, I'd likely go with the 48 anyway just to put the wheels that little bit farther out. Wheel has one review which makes no mention of durability.

Discount Tire Direct shows Konig Countergram (18.96 lb), Hexaform (18.74 lb), and Dekagram (18.21 lb), all with rather wide-sitting 38 or 40 offsets. They do not allow user reviews of wheels.

Drag DR-38 shows up at 18 pounds but aren't they kind of a cheapo brand? To me, four 18lb 17x8 wheels for only $542 sounds like a cheap way to die.

In the 21 pound class, we start with Sport Edition A15-2. 19.45 or 19.75 pounds depending on finish. Sport Edition strikes me as a brand made much more for show than go, and there are no reviews; it is also very inexpensive compared to what I've listed so far. None of this fills me with confidence.

I feel the same about the various Sport Tuning wheels available in this class: ST2 (21.4 pounds), ST3 (21.55 pounds, was noted by a New England reviewer as being very vulnerable to rust, though I plan to have them off by the time the snow flies), ST4 (21.8 pounds), ST5 (19.8 pounds), and ST7 (19.65 or 19.75 pounds depending on finish).

Discount Tire Direct shows Konig Ampliform (19.4 lb), Myth (20.72 lb), Freeform (19.8 lb), Lockout (21.89 lb) and Oversteer (20 lb) available in these specs.

There is also Motegi Racing MR147 CM7 at 21.62 pounds each and MR131 Traklite at 21.56, though the 38 offset seems very wide for this car. That might be exactly what I'm looking for, if it doesn't cause issues with scrub radius and/or fender contact under compression. I did not check the load rating. Load ratings for both are trash tier at 1280 lb, which tells me these wheels would fold over instantly if something were to briefly pop the car up on two wheels, so this one's pretty far down my list.

Advanti Racing Storm S1 and Vigoroso V1 are also here at 21.2 and 21.38 pounds, respectively, but that doesn't sound like an especially well-known brand to me.

Enkei RPF1 shows up in this size via DTD at 21 pounds; apparently TR doesn't carry the 17x8. These are very classic wheels, but I think they were the ones where the TR reviewer said they were constantly getting bent and needing repair.

Also in this class is a brand that was recommended specifically as race-proven on r/touge: BRAID. Ignoring anything that costs more than $500 per wheel in this size leads to the choice of Fullrace A (19.2 pounds) and Fullrace Rallycross (20.3 pounds). They also have a couple of outright 4x4 wheels in the $500 range but those weight 30+ pounds each so eh.

Petrol P2B and P4B, uh, exist. They're 21.89 and 21.38 pounds.

In the 24 pound class (so now a more negligible weight savings), the first and most interesting selection is O.Z. Rally Racing. 22.8 or 23.05 pounds depending on color. None of the reviews mention durability but I suspect these have likely been proven in competition. A little heavier than I was looking for, but would trust.

Next is Focal F56 (22.8 pounds) from Tire Rack and 448 F-20 (23.5 pounds) from Discount Tire Direct. No reviews on F56. Aren't they a cheapo brand as well?

And of course, Sport Tuning is also here, with the ST1 (22.05 pounds) and T11 (23 pounds). Still do not trust.

DTD shows Petrol P1B and P2C at 23.5 pounds, also do not trust.

6061 V-Forged VF10 and VFM are right on the edge of what I'd consider too heavy at 23.98 and 24.2 pounds, respectively, and I don't recognize the brand. They also have the VF7 (24.42 pounds) and VF57 (22.88 pounds).

Same applies to Voxx Divo at 24 pounds.

TSW Silverstone and Snetterton, 24 and 23 pounds, are names I recognize from old video games but I have no idea if they hold up IRL.

Vision Axis and Recoil show up at 23 and 24 pounds as another no-name cheapie.

Konig is here also with the Intention (22.19 pounds). One of the heavier Konigs but also one of the lighter heavyweights.

Touren TR74 squeaks in at 23.56 pounds.

Platinum has the 457 Revelation (24 lb, and the load capacity is trash tier for how much it weighs).

Then I started looking on Driftworks ("Will They Fit Calculator") but they don't show any weight information for their wheels. Oh well.
 

·
weekend racer
2014 VT manual
Joined
·
9,470 Posts
5x114 and 114.3 are the same.

my enkeis are 20lbs each too. either way anything you've listed will be lighter than OEM. just depends on the wheel look and offset you want. try not to make yourself crazy about it :)
 

·
Registered
'13 Turbo 6MT
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
5x114 and 114.3 are the same.

my enkeis are 20lbs each too. either way anything you've listed will be lighter than OEM. just depends on the wheel look and offset you want. try not to make yourself crazy about it :)
I mean, I figured. But I am worried about catastrophically damaging these wheels in a way that leads to myself or someone else getting hurt. Like I said, if I'd paid more attention to load ratings I probably could have narrowed this down a lot.

How do wheel load ratings work? Is that the maximum weight the wheel can take under any circumstances, or are they based on at-rest load with the expectation that instant load may be more that twice that?
 

·
weekend racer
2014 VT manual
Joined
·
9,470 Posts
no idea, i really just try not to hit anything.
 

·
Registered
'13 Turbo 6MT
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
For now I'm going with BRAID Fullrace A. My backup choice is O.Z. Ultraleggera, if I can't get the others quickly enough or budget issues get in the way.

For brakes (because a year later I still haven't fixed those) is G-LOC R6 pads, with Hawk HP660 brake fluid and some kind of reliable stainless braided brake hoses. I considered Stoptech Sport slotted rotors, cryo-treated in the front, but interestingly enough they are not listed under "Autocross/Track" on Tire Rack, while multiple plain-faced options are; given previous advice to just use whatever cheapo rotors and focus on pads/fluid, these would be an easy shunt down the priority list at budget check time anyway.

Of course when it gets to suspension that's another thing altogether. Coilovers were another "Ow, my wallet" moment when I saw the price, KDMTuners lists KSport (two different options) and DGR, and I have no idea about either of those companies. Tire Rack lists a kit from ST but I don't even know if there's anything adjustable about it other than ride height.
 

·
weekend racer
2014 VT manual
Joined
·
9,470 Posts
drilled/slotted are not really needed lol standard blanks from a parts store will work fine . pads and fluid upgrade is the way to go.

suspension really depends on what you want. could go the koni route, it's a bit cheaper and then get eibach or HR springs.. never have to adjust anything. ksport coils are great too, i think the ones i had were kontrol pro. once they were adjusted properly i only would change the stiffness and camber while racing.
 

·
Registered
'13 Turbo 6MT
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
drilled/slotted are not really needed lol standard blanks from a parts store will work fine . pads and fluid upgrade is the way to go.

suspension really depends on what you want. could go the koni route, it's a bit cheaper and then get eibach or HR springs.. never have to adjust anything. ksport coils are great too, i think the ones i had were kontrol pro. once they were adjusted properly i only would change the stiffness and camber while racing.
For the brake pads, do you know of a specific dealer that sells G-Loc pads for these cars? I'm looking through their (very poorly organized) dealer list and it seems like a lot of their dealers only sell parts for specific models, or don't allow online ordering at all. It seems on their site that they have a pre-made fitment for the Veloster Turbo, but if I'm actually going to have to send someone a pad for reference, then G-Loc is not an option as I don't have another car to drive while I wait for the pads.
 

·
weekend racer
2014 VT manual
Joined
·
9,470 Posts
i am unsure. if you're looking for a hot pad the pierce porterfields work fine. not so great when cold and warm. however the ebc redstuff has been great for me. decent cold bite and great hot bike.
 

·
Registered
'13 Turbo 6MT
Joined
·
120 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
i am unsure. if you're looking for a hot pad the pierce porterfields work fine. not so great when cold and warm. however the ebc redstuff has been great for me. decent cold bite and great hot bike.
Roger that, might just go with the Redstuff to save the time.

Should probably just go with the O.Z. wheels for the same reason, but the Braid ones were specifically recommended and I already left a message on that dealer's answering machine so eh

Thanks for all your help so far.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RPW00Mirage

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Roger that, might just go with the Redstuff to save the time.

Should probably just go with the O.Z. wheels for the same reason, but the Braid ones were specifically recommended and I already left a message on that dealer's answering machine so eh

Thanks for all your help so far.
Can tell you that you will be happy with your Braids...unbelievably tough wheels. Used them on my desert/rally race truck and am going to go with them on my N build
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top