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Fact or myth? Some maintenance you may not need to do to your car

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2.5K views 11 replies 7 participants last post by  trooplewis  
#1 ·
This is a relatively 'new' car forum; there are a lot of things discussed here that were beat to death years ago on other car forums, but somehow still live on.

I did a lot of research here before I bought my Veloster, and I appreciate all the input and details about the car and its nuances. But I keep seeing stuff where one member says "I did this and it increased my gas mileage 10%", then someone else's butt dyno agrees with him, then all of a sudden, because it is on the Internet, other people believe it's true and think they have to do the same thing. That's just not right.

Best example I see is putting premium gas in your car to make it run better/cleaner/faster. Unless you have a tune for 91 or 93 octane, your car will not, and can not, know the difference between 87 and 91 octane. In fact, the slow-burning property of 91 octane may have some negative results, not just on your wallet, but on your emission system, things like the 02 sensors. Lots of discussion on advancing timing on the Nissan forums if you want to run Premium and do it right. But without a proper tune, premium gas is a waste of money.

When you were just getting into car maintenance, probably in your early teens, your dad or someone you respected probably told you that "You're a fool if you don't change your oil every 3000 miles"

Today dealerships still play on that emotion. My Velostar had a sticker on the air filter box that said the dealership recommended oil changes every 3000 miles. Sure they do, they want to see you as often as possible, that's how they make money. I have worked for new car dealerships since 1984, and I can tell you that the Service Department is the most profitable part of every dealership, and their whole goal is to get you into the drive so that their commissioned service writer can sell you everything you might possibly need.

Mind you, that may not be a bad thing, especially if you can afford the time and the money. but it also may not be a necessary thing. A lot has changed since dad told you to change your oil every 3 months. Engine block technology is radically different today than it was then, as is the oil itself. Why would Hyundai warrant your engine for 100,000 miles and also tell you to change the oil at least every 7500 miles? Because it works just fine like that.

But back to my original comment about someone who said enthusiasts change their brake fluid once or twice a year.

Why? It doesn't affect how fast your car stops.
It doesn't affect how safe your car is.
Old brake fluid will stop your car EXACTLY as fast as new brake fluid (please think before you respond to that statement, or at least brush up on you knowledge of hydrodynamics).
Old fluid does not contribute to "spongy brake feel" (air does that, usually the result of a poorly done brake fluid change)

And the biggest argument you always hear is in relationship to overheating brakes and their impact on the "moisture" that has crept into your brake fluid. Which is total horse apples, unless you run the Daytona 500 in 90 degree heat. There is just no way a street driver is going to heat up the rotors so much that it will affect the moisture in his old brake fluid and cause unsafe brakes.

WAAAAAaaayy before that happens he is going to have tremendous brake fade, which (unless you drive a current BMW) will make you have to push harder on the brakes to get the same stopping power.(BMW uses what they call 'brake fade compensation', so that the driver gets consistent brake power with consistent pedal pressure regardless of how hot the rotor surface is).

There is one advantage I can think of to changing your fluid every 3 years/30,000 miles, and that is the potential damage to the very sensitive ALB system. Some folks are theorizing that copper build-up, not moisture, is the biggest threat to your brakes. Do a search for the Phoenix Brake-Test Strips, you will see what I mean.

A few years ago I had to replace an ALB unit in a Lexus and the dang thing was $2000. The good news is that even if your ABS fails totally, you still have (by default) the exact same braking power and stopping distance that you had if the ALB system was functioning. So this argument really does not hold true for brake safety, but perhaps for the anti-lock brake unit's reliability.


So be as sarcastic as you like about putting ice water in your crankcase, but show me any actual benefit you derive from replacing your brake fluid and I will humbly apologize. You can't prove increased safety, brake feel or even long-term reliability. Experts say that up to 90% of the vehicles on the road today have never had a brake fluid change. Yeah, think about that when there is an F-350 diesel pulling a 10,000lb trailer bearing down on you at a red light. Plus I am just a big fan of Murphy's law. If something isn't broke, and you still want to fix it, Murphy will somehow show up and make things worse than if you just left them alone. Can't tell you how many times I've seen that happen, so I try not to invite trouble whenever possible.

So go ahead, let the games begin.
 
#2 ·
I was a big skeptic of changing fuel to a higher octane. But the car is definitely smoother to drive. In Australia, 91 Octane is our basic unleaded, but using 98 octane for the past two fill ups has made a world of difference, really to the cars ability to move nice and smoothly at slow speeds. So for that reason I'll be sticking with the 98. Who knows if it's pissing money down the drain, but it works for me.

Just my two cents.
 
#3 ·
Best example I see is putting premium gas in your car to make it run better/cleaner/faster. Unless you have a tune for 91 or 93 octane, your car will not, and can not, know the difference between 87 and 91 octane. In fact, the slow-burning property of 91 octane may have some negative results, not just on your wallet, but on your emission system, things like the 02 sensors. Lots of discussion on advancing timing on the Nissan forums if you want to run Premium and do it right. But without a proper tune, premium gas is a waste of money.

I had this same issue with my Focus up until I came across the overwhelming majority of posters in the Mark 3 thread who said that higher octane does help. In fact by the end of all of us posting our mileage numbers with 87 and with 91 there were only a handful of trolls left who kept being annoying.

Newer cars, especially ours with DI, can advance timing based on the octane you put in.

Hell, with the Focus they even listed in the owners manual that using premium would give better performance and that is how it all started for us, that one little line in the manual.

All I know is that when I use V power as opposed to the cheaper 87 the car does feel smoother and as far as mileage goes I'll have to report back after a few tanks on that; 2-4 dollars more a tank doesn't bother me if I can see some meaningful gains out of it.
 
#6 ·
Newer cars, especially ours with DI, can advance timing based on the octane you put in.
Are you SURE about that?

I know that since the mid-90's cars had had knock sensors and can retard timing if they sense engine knock (just replaced one on my kids 96 Maxima, $50 and a PITA to do it) but I am not aware of engine technology that can sense higher octane gas and advance the timing based on that. I think a good tune is the only way to take advantage of higher octane. I can tune my 2010 Mustang for 87/89/91 octane just by plugging in the tuner.
 
#4 ·
my 2 cents here is that it will be a never ending battle trying to convince people either way.

There are just to many variables to get really concrete 'proof' that you don't need to change certain fluids, among other fact/myth arguments.

With all of the data showing otherwise, I still have a hard time changing my oil at 5000-7500 miles instead of 3000. Obviously it is 'technically' better the more often you do fluid changes but is it necessary? I couldn't say and would be more inclined to think it is not needed.

I put high octane fuel in the car 2 fuel ups ago and noticed zilch difference, only on my wallet. Was there perhaps some difference that was not measurable? maybe.. I would be willing to bet that the same octane gas from different stations has a bigger impact than the octane you choose at the same station.

Regarding the brake fluid, I've only changed it in one car and that was when I upgraded to my Wilwoods in the SRT-4. I've changed rotors and pads before without changing the fluid and never felt in danger. Does this mean you should never change the fluid? Hell no. I haven't and it hasn't affected me or bothered me.

I think alot of these things depend on your driving and if you are trying to maintain constant MAXIMUM performance from your vehicle and as I said, there are SOO many variables that can differ from car to car, model to model to really compare if some of these things are NEEDED or just good to do if you remember.

*I am no expert on ANYTHING and will not claim to be. I am just sharing my thoughts and from some personal experience.*
 
#5 ·
Same with me, on the premium fuel: Six tanks later, no increase in MPG. I think the car felt smoother, but I don't know if that was real or 'in my head.' I was suprised when after a few tanks I was still hitting the same MPGs as 87 octane.
 
#8 ·
Another to chime in with Australian experience... My current car, (Euro spec) Ford Focus* used to ping on 91 Octane in 3rd; since I switched to 98 Octane no drama. Not sure if it adds more power or fuel economy - I suspect it does to both - but it does run smoother, and the few dollars extra per week is worth it.

* I realise this only vaguely relates to the Veloster.
 
#9 ·
Another myth I saw someone mention here; said he inflated his tires to the Max Pressure that was stated on the sidewall of the tire.

YIKES! That advice could result in someone dying if they take it seriously.
Only trailer tires should be inflated to the Max Capacity listed on the sidewall, as it affects their load-carrying ability.

Inflating your tires (on a car like ours that is listed at 32ppsi) to 44ppsi is just flat out dangerous.

It makes your tire's footprint smaller, which means you will take longer to stop in a situation that requires maximum braking

It will also make you car handle 'funny', twitchy is how I describe it. Over-responsive, difficult to handle, annoying.

You will also wear out the center tread before the edges, and go through tires faster.

Plus in most cars it just gives a very uncomfortable ride. Somehow there is always someone who thinks the tire PSI is the one you should follow, not the PSI recommended by the company that made your car. Really bad advice, don't do it.
 
#11 ·
While I won't ever claim to be an expert in vehicular technology, I believe I know a fair share of info and try to share it with those who are enthusiasts or may not know "good information". BTW, yes, it was me being sarcastic in another thread about various things for those who don't know. I've been known to push my vehicles to and beyond their limits many times. I've also been in HiPo vehicles with less than HiPo brakes. Long story short I've bled brakes on my GSR, my brother's Camaro and other HiPo vehicles that always shot air out in the onset of the bleeding process. This indicates to me brake fluid has boiled and created air pockets which don't create hydraulic pressure like good clean brake fluid does. Let's be real here, to bleed your brakes even once a year what's the cost? $10 tops? What about having brakes you're confident will operate when you need them? (so long as your rotors, pads, etc, are in good working order) Priceless! As far as the use of higher octane goes, I too feel an improvement when running 93 octane as opposed to 87. I personally use an additive to my fuel that many people call BS on but I believe it helps so I continue to use it for the limited extra cost it incurs me. As far as oils go... Well, that's a huge topic that's far too large to go into depth here on. But, I'll say that oil has changed since 1996. I personally break in an engine on conventional oil but always switch to a high quality true full synthetic and in the case of the Veloster use the OEM oil filter. If I run conventional oil I change it every 3k. True full synthetics can and will go MUCH longer than this and provide superior protection in all driving conditions. Since most manual trannys don't have a filter or at the very least a magnet to catch magnetic debris, I change my M/T fluid anually too.
 
#12 · (Edited)
I'm a believer in synthetic oils as well, at least after the mfg-installed oil has had a chance to do it's break-in job. I usually put in full syn at around 10,000 miles, Pennzoil Ultra is my current favorite, after giving up on Mobil 1.

BTW, you can't make air pockets (at an ambient temperature) in a brake line out of once-boiled water. Once it cools down again, it is just water again, boiling will not separate the H2 from the O to create an air pocket. A phase-change in a liquid will never lose mass, all of the original water will still be there in a closed system. So you need to figure out where that air pocket came from, which should lead you in some interesting directions.