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Discussion Starter #1
So the other day I swapped out my original engine with a newer engine and I’m having some issues just looking for ideas. When I first went to drive it it was fine but then I realized it began to lag in the shifts as though it was holding the clutch too long then if I try to accelerate fast it will kill out and I’ll lose the rpm gauge and another thing I noticed is that the car no matter which gear i am in will kill/stall if I rev it up to 2000 rpms. Anyone have any knowledge on the fix?
 

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what engine did you put in? 2016+ has different coilpacks and sensors - you would need to use your original ones if applicable...

did you hook up all your grounds?

any codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i used every sensor every single thing from the motor I had seize on me and the only code I get is from knock sensor bay 1 and I sanded where all the grounds go in an attempt to make sure I have good grounds everywhere I need to
 

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Well since you did an engine exchange and you had to disconnect the power to the ECU’s you will need too get them reflashed by a dealership or a qualified outside vender. You also may have to do a relearning for your DCT tranny.
 

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Btw if you look into my previous post about Hyundai Oil change TSB’s? All Hyundai vehicles made between 2011- up to present day models should use synthetic blended or full synthetic oils be used along with a Hyundai OEM oil filter or a Mann oil filters. To avoid major engine failures because, any other aftermarket oil filter cannot maintain proper oil pressures throughout the engine. Which will result in your engine failing you. Also do all your recommend maintenance accordingly via you maintenance schedules. GDI engines needs to be looked after like a child needing your attention. Neglect it and you pay the price weather it’s a VT or NAV..
 

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Well since you did an engine exchange and you had to disconnect the power to the ECU’s you will need too get them reflashed by a dealership or a qualified outside vender. You also may have to do a relearning for your DCT tranny.
Please explain this a bit further on what you're saying about disconnecting power to the ECU's.
Is there something I'm missing here?
If you disconnect your battery you are basically doing what you stated above but you never have to have it reflashed at the dealer because of it.
I leave my car battery on my Hyundai disconnected for 4-6 weeks at a time to save the battery from discharging while I'm gone and I've never had to reflash the ECU's.
I'm not knocking your post but just curious to get a bit more information on the exact meaning of disconnecting power from the ECU's.
I'll be doing an engine swap myself in the near future so if there's something I need to know I don't want to miss any information that may help me in doing this swap and getting it running again.
Thanks. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I know about the oil and such but can’t afford to pay the dealer or someone else to do the flash is there any way other than bringing it to them
 

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Please pay no mind to post 11 and 12. The tsb is not that pertinent, you can use a Fram is you want, i do like the OEM.
Dude, if your still having problems, maybe someone off the forum can drive and look at your shitiation, other than that, you need someone to LOOK at it. We can just keep guessing if you want. sorry man but use the correct parts for your year, maybe an ECM will help, who knows, we dont have a lot of info on this new motor.
 

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Fram... really? I don't think I've ever head anyone consider a Fram filter in the 10 years I've had korean cars. is the piece of mind really worth a buck or two? especially if you decide to run longer intervals?

should not need a reflash for a replacement engine. it's possible if you replaced the DCT trans as well.

back to the knock sensor code... have you replaced the sensor and reset the ecu?
 

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Please explain this a bit further on what you're saying about disconnecting power to the ECU's.
Is there something I'm missing here?
If you disconnect your battery you are basically doing what you stated above but you never have to have it reflashed at the dealer because of it.
I leave my car battery on my Hyundai disconnected for 4-6 weeks at a time to save the battery from discharging while I'm gone and I've never had to reflash the ECU's.
I'm not knocking your post but just curious to get a bit more information on the exact meaning of disconnecting power from the ECU's.
I'll be doing an engine swap myself in the near future so if there's something I need to know I don't want to miss any information that may help me in doing this swap and getting it running again.
Thanks. (y)
Well being disconnected is very different from just replacing your battery and disconnecting the batt terminals for around 10-20 minutes? Your ECU can retain most or if not all of its memory within a short disconnect timeline. But when you swap out the engines you’re talking 8 hours if you’re very proficient or 24 hours if your not fully prepared. Either scenario your power source has been disconnected from your ECU far too long. So yea, you’re gonna need too reflash that sucker and do a DCT tranny relearn also.
 

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No no, done many at the dealership, no need. It doesn't hurt to do the tranny one, usually not necessary unless a code.
 

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I've also never hear of an ecu/tcu loosing it's data just from being unplugged for extended periods of time. By that logic all shelved ecus would be worthless.
 
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