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DIY spark plug change

45K views 30 replies 16 participants last post by  misnblu 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
so i have been wanting to make a diy for awhile now. so here it is. i will put in the gap specs later as i remember or get them.
the usual disclaimer, i'm not responsible for any problems or wrongful installation. the engine can be hot if you just drove it. be careful about hot parts...

to start, you need a 10mm socket, 5/8" spark plug socket, an extension, a ratchet, anti-sieze, spark plug gap tool, and of course spark plugs.


get a socket with the rubber inside to hold plug. it will make life so much easier.




when i wrote this, i could not find very many options for plugs. i went with the autolite. i would have chosen ngk if i had a cross referance. stock plugs are NGK IR SILZKr68(mine were) i would go with iridium as they will last longer. platinum and copper will work but dont expect to get 100k miles out of them. dont be afraid to spend $8 a plug. its going to stay in there for awhile.

gapping the plug
i never trust "these are pre-gapped". Think about it, those plug boxes are being thrown around, dropped, messed with. so i ALWAYS check them. BE CAREFUL ABOUT DAMAGING THE FINE WIRE ON PLUG.


slide into spark plug to check


put like this and slightly twist to increase gap



pull cover off of engine. just pull straight off.


you will see this


use 10mm socket to remove bolts that hold the coils on


then grab coil and pull up(mine was very warm as i just drove car)


use ratchet,plug socket, and extension to remove old plugs


should look like this


take new plug and add a little anti-seize to threads, - Optional only needed for other brands, NGK plugs don't need anti-seize


put plug into the socket and put back down spark plug hole. then HAND TIGHTEN(this avoids cross threadding) until it stops. then use ratchet to tighten another 1/4-1/2 a turn to seat gasket.


put coil back on and tighten 10mm bolt until snug.


the driver-side-most plug will be hard to get to. to make it easy disconnect this plug, reattach once done



to put cover back on line up this point



close hood, then you are done!!

I know many can change a spark plug, but some may have not. so i hope this helps someone. any input or questions, please ask as this is my first tutorial.

this was done on a 2012 veloster with 120k miles.
 
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#4 ·
Just tried the first time pull out of my spark plug to take a look after 95000 Km. Seems not bad. And i could confirm my stock NA V spark plug model was NGK Laser Iridium SILZKR6B10.
One thing i want to remind is no need to use anti-seize on NGK spark plug as stated from their technical document.

http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf

"The use of anti-seize on spark plugs is only recommended on those brands thatdo not offer a special metal shell plating. Spark plugs that have a shiny silver
appearance on the metal body usually indicate that the spark plug is
manufactured with special metal shell plating.
All NGK Spark Plugs are manufactured with special shell plating on the metal body."
 
#7 ·
The only thing I see missing on this Thread is how tight they should be tightened. With older cars I would just hand tighten, but I learned quickly that these cars are a little more sensitive & should be torqued to a specific range. If you check the NGK website or if you have ever purchased Brisk plugs for our cars you will see that the instructions specify to torque down to 10.8 ft-lbs of torque if you use anti seize & up to 14.6 ft'lbs of torque if you do not use anti seize. I tried doing the hand tightening thing once a while back & I had a plug work itself loose after like 10k miles. Since then I have always used a torque wrench.
 
#8 ·
Hyundai wouldn't release torque specs to me. I do agree on torque to spec, however many people doing this or looking at tutorial may not want or need to buy a torque wrench just for this job. That's another reason I didn't post my rear brake job. Most fasteners, in my experience, can be done by feel. Or correct force. Granted, I've done this several times so it's a little different. Box on plugs stated, iirc, 1/4 turn. Many manufacturers will say on box.

Thanks for the edit.
 
#13 ·
After reading about carbon build-up in GDi engines, I was expecting my plugs to be black when I changed them this morning (42,672 miles, Autolite XP6203 Iridium). No such thing. They were a nice light grayish-tan, no build-up or anything. FWIW, I use a 120z bottle of Valvoline injector cleaner at every 5,000 mile oil change.
 
#15 ·
Okay, I am wanting to do a test on this car with spark plugs but I was wondering if anyone else had a little more info than what I have. I am wanting to do a step colder plug with a smaller gap than stock.
Has anyone messed around with this at all and can give me any ideas on what to go with as far as plug and gap?

Thank you for any info!!
 
#19 ·
you should be able to squeeze the connector and pull it loose.
 
#21 ·
werd, push it tighter, squeeze, pull it off.
 
#22 ·
Yep, all the electrical connectors have a latching mechanism. Looking at the individual connector very closely, with good light and even a magnifier will reveal the mechanics of the latch. Most all are squeeze and pull types, but there are also flap types where the flaps need to be spread to release the connector, and there are also twist to open types too. Whatever the type, be gentle because to replace a connector can be an expensive proposition.
 
#24 · (Edited)
.028 is for the turbo....

.040 for the NAV, but don't 100% quote me on that. I can check the service manual after my next call.
 
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#26 ·
#29 ·
you can also pull one out and look at the numbers on the side.

be gingerly with the coil plug connectors. if you remove the 10mm and just wiggle them off you dont have to remove them at all.
 
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