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I have had to take my 2013 Veloster into the Hyndai dealership to be fixed at least 7 times since April. The first time was because my check engine light came on because I was losing oil to the point that it was bone dry. I didn't have a visible leak and they couldn't figure out why. They kept ii for 2 weeks and said it was my fuel pump, they replaced it. A few days later it was back on, they said it was because my oil was spilling into my engine and couldn't figure out why, but cleaned my engine and ran a solution through my engine for 2 days. Within a month the light came on again. This time they said that my car wasn't getting enough fuel so they cleaned my oil filter. 2 days later it happened again and they said it was that my engine was getting too much fuel. Almost a week later it died and I had it towed. They kept my car for 2 months to figure it out. I just picked it up this last saturday and they told me that they put in a new O2 sensor. Noooow, it idles high, parked it's at 2! When I drive, it's up 2000 higher than normal. I can't push it past 70 because the RPMs are so high. It's manual so I really pay attention to these things, especially when it sounds so bad when I'm in 5th & 6th gear. The car smells like oil but I don't know if that's because of them working on it so much. When I picked it up this past time I was told to hurry up and trade it in....

Any help is appreciated! I don't want a car payment and planned to drive this thing into the ground. It's only at 135,000.00 miles. They told me that older cars, like mine, and with mileage over 100,000 are going to break. My Honda's never did when they were over 200,000.00..

Thanks for your time!!

Ru
 

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2012 Veloster NA, 71 VW Type 3 Fastback, 70 VW type 3 Fastback, 2011 TDI Sportwagen, 99 impreza
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Mine burns oil like it's going out of style (3000 miles or less it burns off oil from full to just below low on the dipstick. Mines at 112k.

After lengthy self diagnostics and putting a catch can on the car and trying different additives and oils all i can say is these cars burn a lot oil.

Theres a recall on the 2015-2016 gen 1 engines for something similar. I'm crossing my fingers the recall is expanded.
 

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And then there was the million-mile Hyundai Elantra.......https://www.caranddriver.com/news/a25645830/hyundai-elantra-million-miles/
 

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Did the check engine light come on, or was it the low oil pressure light? The fuel pump is in the gas tank and has nothing to do with the oil. It doesn't make any sense to clean the oil filter because you can't get enough fuel. Did you mean clean the fuel screen?

I don't think you should be taking your car to these guys.
 

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I'm pretty concerned about some of those diagnostics that the dealership gave you. Really no sense with some of them. If you had a fueling issue its possible for the engine to run very lean and then get hot. This would probably consume some oil but not very quickly like you state. You would also see you coolant temp rise and your radiator fan come on more frequently.

If you're car is losing engine oil. There are only two ways to do that; you either have a leak, or it is being burned (or your oil level sensor is actually faulty and the car is confused --> very unlikely seen as the dealership has had the car 7 times). Leaks are fairly obvious and easy to find if a significant amount of oil is being lost. If the leak is external, there should be obvious signs in the engine bay somewhere. If the leak is internal, then there should be signs of oil combustion. There are very few internal leaks that do not result in its combustion. The car should also be producing blue smoke if this is occurring.

Another though is that possibly an oil change was never done correctly and the car has not had the correct volume of oil in the engine all along. There could be some sort of blockage somewhere. It would be good to confirm the volume of oil that comes out of the car and check that against the OEM recommendation. Then confirm how much goes back in to 'fill it up' and check that volume against what was drained. You would at least have peace of mind that oil volume is correct then.

But these thoughts do not explain all of your problems and they should have be obvious to any mechanic. Your description of symptoms and the dealers response to them is very odd. The dealers fixes don't seem to be related to your symptoms. I think your best investment, if you plan to fix this car, would be a data logging tool. You need to figure out how much fuel and air the car believes it has available. I suspect the cars ECU is trying to fix a digital problem that doesn't exist in realty; like a faulty sensor or something.
 

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Dealerships guess at your expense. They almost never admit when they screw up.

This sounds like the catalytic converter may be bad amd tripping codes. Get an OBD2 reader and see qhat the code numbers are and Google them so you know whats going on.

Oil burning in the engine is why you have the smell and you may have run dry and burnt up the intake manifold gaskets. A pricey fix. But the dealership should by now have determined that.

How is the coolant level? The oil maybe dumping into a coolant line and boiling out the overflow while driving.

When the oil is topped off and you check it, is it milky? How about the coolant? Is it dark and oily?

High rpm and bad idle signify a bad CAT and its tripping your O2 sensors. Which is what they are for. To tell you its going bad. So spend the $50 and get an OBD2 reader off Amazon and find out what the codes you are getting are and then Google OBD2 Code P0xxxx etc. And get a general answer.

My money is on a catalyst code.
The car getting too much fuel sounds like BS from the dealership. Its not a carb, its computer controlled injectors that adjust for air temp, density and adjust itself along with the vacuum system and evap. The car will have wonky idle if your AC refrigerant is over/under filled as well. Have you done anything with your AC levels?
 

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High rpm and bad idle signify a bad CAT and its tripping your O2 sensors. Which is what they are for. To tell you its going bad. So spend the $50 and get an OBD2 reader off Amazon and find out what the codes you are getting are and then Google OBD2 Code P0xxxx etc. And get a general answer.

My money is on a catalyst code.
The car getting too much fuel sounds like BS from the dealership. Its not a carb, its computer controlled injectors that adjust for air temp, density and adjust itself along with the vacuum system and evap. The car will have wonky idle if your AC refrigerant is over/under filled as well. Have you done anything with your AC levels?
I like the idea of a bad CAT or even a clogged CAT. Especially after hearing the problems with the engine. In fact, the CAT could have been made worse by some of the dealership 'fixes'. Bits of crud getting into the CAT can burn it up really quickly.

Doesn't explain the source of the oil leak. Could it come from blow-by from a bad piston ring?
 

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2012 Veloster NA, 71 VW Type 3 Fastback, 70 VW type 3 Fastback, 2011 TDI Sportwagen, 99 impreza
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I like the idea of a bad CAT or even a clogged CAT. Especially after hearing the problems with the engine. In fact, the CAT could have been made worse by some of the dealership 'fixes'. Bits of crud getting into the CAT can burn it up really quickly.

Doesn't explain the source of the oil leak. Could it come from blow-by from a bad piston ring?
There's another recent thread talking about oil burn off as well. I just checked my bores with a borescope and pulled the breather from my intake to check for oil. The dealers (multiple) stated that this was "normal" oil burn (maybe for a 80's jeep).

At 135k i would wager without a replacement/rebuilt engine you probably have between 10k to 40k miles before the car is dead based on some research i've been doing on the life span of the gamma GDI in velosters, elantras and souls.
 

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The best advise that RuMcQ got from his dealer may have been to trade it in. I would still want a proper diagnostic of the problem though. If the dealer said, 'trade it in because this, this ,and this are screwed, and it's going to cost you x.' I'd be fine with it all. Hyundai have that great 100k warranty, but after that you're on your own, and it sounds like these cars you deteriorate quickly after that.
 

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The ultimate sleaze is to screw up on diagnosis and repair so they can sell new cars. The 100K warranty is no good if the dealer does not know what they are doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did the check engine light come on, or was it the low oil pressure light? The fuel pump is in the gas tank and has nothing to do with the oil. It doesn't make any sense to clean the oil filter because you can't get enough fuel. Did you mean clean the fuel screen?

I don't think you should be taking your car to these guys.
They didn't just clean the screen they replaced the filter and a pan of some sort. I've learned that after going all of 2020! I took it to a mechanic, and he figured it out. He said that all the stuff they put in were just educated guesses. How about they put the O2 sensor in the wrong place!?? I've paid at least $1800.00 to get this far! I'm furious and wish that I could do something to get my money back from the dealership that didn't fix it! If I could afford a new car, I'd get one. How about they said that cars get old and with all the new electronics cars just break! OH! This mechanic also told me that they didn't reset the computer or update it so the car can adjust to the repairs. (n)

Any ideas as to how to get my money back? :mad:
 

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They didn't just clean the screen they replaced the filter and a pan of some sort. I've learned that after going all of 2020! I took it to a mechanic, and he figured it out. He said that all the stuff they put in were just educated guesses. How about they put the O2 sensor in the wrong place!?? I've paid at least $1800.00 to get this far! I'm furious and wish that I could do something to get my money back from the dealership that didn't fix it! If I could afford a new car, I'd get one. How about they said that cars get old and with all the new electronics cars just break! OH! This mechanic also told me that they didn't reset the computer or update it so the car can adjust to the repairs. (n)

Any ideas as to how to get my money back? :mad:
That's probably a legal fight that isn't worth your time or money. Unless you can get the case pro bono and or a with good contingency fee contract. You would also need some expert opinion that the dealers' "fixes" were completely unfounded. You said that your new mechanic considered them as at least "educated guesses". It could be argued that any dealership would have tried the solutions that you paid for given the symptoms that your car experienced. There may be some amount of complaining that you can do, and I would argue that a lot of labor costs should be returned to you. The parts installed are probably fine and functional so that is difficult to reimburse; but labor cost comes with an understood competency. Mechanics charge a high hourly rate because they are meant to have a skill set worthy of it. If you could argue with the dealership that that value was not present, you may be able to get a little money back.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
They didn't just clean the screen they replaced the filter and a pan of some sort. I've learned that after going all of 2020! I took it to a mechanic, and he figured it out. He said that all the stuff they put in were just educated guesses. How about they put the O2 sensor in the wrong place!?? I've paid at least $1800.00 to get this far! I'm furious and wish that I could do something to get my money back from the dealership that didn't fix it! If I could afford a new car, I'd get one. How about they said that cars get old and with all the new electronics cars just break!

Any ideas as to how to get my money back? :mad:
That's probably a legal fight that isn't worth your time or money. Unless you can get the case pro bono and or a with good contingency fee contract. You would also need some expert opinion that the dealers' "fixes" were completely unfounded. You said that your new mechanic considered them as at least "educated guesses". It could be argued that any dealership would have tried the solutions that you paid for given the symptoms that your car experienced. There may be some amount of complaining that you can do, and I would argue that a lot of labor costs should be returned to you. The parts installed are probably fine and functional so that is difficult to reimburse; but labor cost comes with an understood competency. Mechanics charge a high hourly rate because they are meant to have a skill set worthy of it. If you could argue with the dealership that that value was not present, you may be able to get a little money back.
Jeez, that was an excellent response! Thank you for the advice. I really hope it works, the complaining that is. I'm glad that you responded, thank you!
 

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Garages regularly take advantage of people that do not know the general working of their vehicle. If your vehicle is losing oil and they tell you they changed a fuel filter to fix it, then they tell you it's getting too much fuel, so they clean the oil filter - they are ripping you off. If you leave the dealership without questioning these things, they then realize they have someone that they can take advantage of, and will keep doing it. Blinker Fluid.

Dawkinator was trying to tell you that. They saw they could get away with it. Your flippant response won't help the people trying to help you here to help you more. You won't get your money back. Perhaps you can publicize your case on a social media platform and shame the company or something, or start a gofundme to raise money to cover your costs, both methods are common these days.

2013 was a bad year for Veloster engines. If your oil keeps disappearing and you don't check it until the warning light comes on - that's on you. Life is a learning experience.
 
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