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2013 Vitamin-C Veloster Turbo MT
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Vehicle is a 2013 Veloster Turbo.

As stated in the Title, I had the unfortunate luck of driving through a flooded lane on a highway (wasn't any way around it, got trapped in my lane and couldn't avoid it in time). I sucked up water via the Intake and the car died on the highway. Got it towed home.

Same night, I pulled the spark plugs and checked the cylinders for liquid with a camera. Had fluid in left two cylinders, but right two looked dry. I left it overnight to dry and tried starting it the next morning. Left the first two cylinders open (without spark plugs) and started it. Managed to shoot all the liquid out and got it started but it's running like garbage. Misfiring in multiple cylinders and getting a code P0091. I don't believe I hear any knocking, so hopefully I don't have any bent/broken connecting rods as I imagine those would cause a noticeable knocking.

Does anyone know what fuel issues might arise from sucking water in via the intake? The P0091 Code indicates "Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit Low" So I'm wondering what I should tackle first. Honestly debating just towing the car to the closest Hyundai dealer and leaving it in more capable hands. I'm also a bit terrified of corrosion/rusting from the bit of water than did make it into the system. Though I imagine running the engine enough would've evaporated any residual water.

I replaced the spark plugs and oil/oil filter as well as that's recommended when water makes it into the engine. (Didn't seem like water made it to the oil but changed it anyways.)
 

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2013 Vitamin-C Veloster Turbo MT
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Looks like I got bad compression in all the cylinders. Results are as follows.

Dry 90,40,120,90
Wet 120,80,170,150

Piston rings are likely the culprit. Makes sense as I had an oil leak I couldn’t find previously, and some acceleration issues as well. Water must’ve been the nail in the coffin I suppose.
 

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weekend racer
2014 VT manual
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9,464 Posts
yup :(
 

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weekend racer
2014 VT manual
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9,464 Posts
no rebuild guides...most owners that join our site are 1% enthusiasts and 20% alike minded folks and 79% those who just come on to complain and never post again LOL

tork block is probably a good deal, you mentioned rings but have you considered it's probably valves? you'll have to pull the head to find out.
 

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2013 Vitamin-C Veloster Turbo MT
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
no rebuild guides...most owners that join our site are 1% enthusiasts and 20% alike minded folks and 79% those who just come on to complain and never post again LOL

tork block is probably a good deal, you mentioned rings but have you considered it's probably valves? you'll have to pull the head to find out.
Lmao I can't even talk cause I do a terrible job of documenting issues I've had and how I've fixed them (usually there's already stuff out there, but still)

Regarding the valves, I haven't pulled the head because everything I've seen from videos/forums says that a significant difference in dry/wet compression test points at rings. If the compression didn't change after the wet test, then it'd probably be a valve issue.

I've been looking for replacement engines because a lot of what I've seen says that rebuilding typically isn't worth the cost/hassle especially since I'd likely have to bore/sleeve the cylinders. I'm a bit surprised at the lack of turbo engines available as well as the cost of the few I could find lol. This is a pretty annoying situation... Some of these replacement engines are well into the 4-5 grand range at some junkyards. At that point I'd be better off with the brand new Tork replacement.

I'm also harshly debating doing it myself or leaving it in the dealer's hands. Luckily, I'm not super hard pressed for a vehicle right now and I could definitely afford to spend the time on the repair. I just worry about actually taking this challenge head on (without a full guide at least) since I'm a real small time backyard mechanic and haven't done anything this big before. I do worry that the dealer cost is going to be way more than I'm willing to pay. Anything significantly over 5k and I think I'll just end up trying to do it myself.

The base engine cost straight from the dealer looks to be about $3.4k and from what I've seen, labor cost will ~1-2k so that about the most I'm willing to spend before I decide to full send it myself.

Also, seeing the engine price from hyundai now, I'd probably just buy it from them instead of tork. The tork one is almost 5k with the core charge and doesn't even come with a new head whereas hyundai is selling the full assembly.
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I think you'll find that price is no longer correct and even getting your hands one an engine is questionable what with world events as they are.

However I would not stop trying to find a Hyundai crate engine and there is a fellow in South Korea who is also on EBay that may be some help.

Here is one EBay seller.
PITCHES car part shop
 

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2015 RB Accent not so stock 🤫
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Lmao I can't even talk cause I do a terrible job of documenting issues I've had and how I've fixed them (usually there's already stuff out there, but still)

Regarding the valves, I haven't pulled the head because everything I've seen from videos/forums says that a significant difference in dry/wet compression test points at rings. If the compression didn't change after the wet test, then it'd probably be a valve issue.

I've been looking for replacement engines because a lot of what I've seen says that rebuilding typically isn't worth the cost/hassle especially since I'd likely have to bore/sleeve the cylinders. I'm a bit surprised at the lack of turbo engines available as well as the cost of the few I could find lol. This is a pretty annoying situation... Some of these replacement engines are well into the 4-5 grand range at some junkyards. At that point I'd be better off with the brand new Tork replacement.

I'm also harshly debating doing it myself or leaving it in the dealer's hands. Luckily, I'm not super hard pressed for a vehicle right now and I could definitely afford to spend the time on the repair. I just worry about actually taking this challenge head on (without a full guide at least) since I'm a real small time backyard mechanic and haven't done anything this big before. I do worry that the dealer cost is going to be way more than I'm willing to pay. Anything significantly over 5k and I think I'll just end up trying to do it myself.

The base engine cost straight from the dealer looks to be about $3.4k and from what I've seen, labor cost will ~1-2k so that about the most I'm willing to spend before I decide to full send it myself.

Also, seeing the engine price from hyundai now, I'd probably just buy it from them instead of tork. The tork one is almost 5k with the core charge and doesn't even come with a new head whereas hyundai is selling the full assembly.
View attachment 135675
If you're willing and able you can find a service manual off that has step by step instructions on the full break down if the engine and rebuild.

I have a copy of the 2014 VT full service manual in PDF form if you want a copy of it. PM me your email and I'll send you the link if you want it.

Rebuilding the engine and head would be cheaper and when done you'll have practically a new motor setup that'll be good for another 100k miles.

Good luck. 🤞🙏
 

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2013 Vitamin-C Veloster Turbo MT
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45 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So, update.... I put everything back together today and cranked it up and she started lol. Guess lubricating the cylinders with the wet compression test did the trick. I'm sure the piston rings will eventually start to cause issues again (at least if that's actually what the issue was) but as of right now its running normally (more or less lol). Got oil in the trunk just in case I have any compression issues. I was burning some oil anyways, so I kept it with me to keep it topped off. Starts up really quick though so I don't think I'll have too much of an issue. I still have the slight misfire/hesitation like before, but not enough for the engine to throw a code so just gonna keep on keepin on
 
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