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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all. First let me say, I'm new to the Veloster family. Just bought a 2013 Veloster Re:Mix for my son to take to college. It has the 1.6L GDI engine. Bought the car 2 weeks ago and I've been driving it everyday. Love it and plan to get a new one for myself (a Veloster N of course) soon as I can afford it. My son has never driven a manual so I've been teaching him how to drive it the past couple of weeks.

Here's the deal. The car has been driving like a dream and has handled well the abuse that a person who is first learning to drive a stick puts on a car. Of course, he's stalled it out quite a few times. Chosen wrong gears, missed gears, etc. Just the normal stuff people do when they're learning. I've continued to drive the car in between learning sessions and it has run and sounded great to me.

Let me provide a little timeline for context for the questions that are coming:
  • Monday (almost two weeks ago): purchased the car in Florida...drove it back to MS and it drove perfectly.
  • Friday: Changed the oil/oil filter. Owner's manual called for 5w20, but allowed 5w30 in hot climates. I used 5w30 bc we live in MS and it's hot as the devil's armpit! Figured the heavier weight would be better. Also discovered during the oil change that the filter on the car when we bought it was TINY...definitely not like the purolator filter that I bought at the auto parts store. However, the new purolator was supposedly equivalent OEM fit so I put it on there.
  • Saturday-Thursday: Car continued to drive like a dream.
  • Friday (yesterday...not quite two weeks after I bought the car): Drove car all day with no problems, son got a good bit of driving time in and only stalled it a couple of times. I drove it later in the day. On my way home, I cranked that car and everything sounded fine, but after lugging the motor while taking off the CEL came on. I say "lugging the motor," but in retrospect it really felt more like the car didn't have it's normal amount of power. Drove the car home and put my code reader on it. All three codes returned had something to do with the "Engine Knock Sensor" or the sensor circuit. Like I said, this car has run like a sewing machine so I cleared the codes, cranked it up and let it run a while, and no CEL came back.
  • Saturday (today): I drove the car about 50 miles just to see if the CEL would come back and it did not. Car ran great...plenty of power, but I did pay extra close attention to the engine sounds today. I was looking for any kind of knock, vibration, etc. that might indicate a preignition situation. Nothing. HOWEVER, I did notice that regardless of gear, there is a slight rattling sound that comes from the engine compartment between 2750-3250 RPMs ONLY WHEN the engine is under heavy load (in other words, I'm taking off and going through gears, really getting on it, or going up a hill). I wouldn't classify this sound as either a knock or a ping, but more as a rattle. I don't think this rattling sound is related to the CEL light, myself, but would welcome suggestions.
So, now that I've given context, let me ask a few of questions:
  1. What could have caused the codes to be thrown for Engine Knock Sensor? I'm considering that the sensor could be bad OR could be failing. Wouldn't there be some other kind of symptom if it was anything other than the sensor? Wouldn't the CEL come right back if there were truly an ignition issue? Could my son's stalling the car and rough shifting cause the sensor to throw a code?
  2. Is the rattle at 2750-3250 something to worry about or is it most likely some component in the engine compartment being affected by engine harmonics?
  3. Should I go back to the 5w20 suggested in the owner's manual? I don't think the 5w30 should be the issue, but is there a possibility that using a different weight oil could cause any of the things I've mentioned?
Thanks in advance for your help and comments. I can change out the Knock Sensor myself if I need to, but don't want to go down that road unless I really need to.
 

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weekend racer
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what type of oil did you use? mobil 1 is not good for the cars. most recommend pennzoil ultra platinum. i run quaker state since that is what the dealer uses... and an oem filter. if not using oem i would get wix.

you may want to check with the dealer, there is a knock sensor update available... your car may be on it.
 

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Definitely use an OEM filter (genuine Hyundai Filter). Please shift at higher revs, Don't lug the engine. These are GDI engines and need to have the carbon blown out past the cat.
What gas are you using? Use top tier gas. (It sound like you have some bad gas) Did you notice these problems after filling up?
How much oil did you put into the car.

Is it Rattling or Ticking? A really fast rattle or ticking is your injectors (yes, they make a lot of noise) this is normal.
For a remix (NAV) any brand name oil is OK, but for a Turbo use a API SN PLUS rated oil.
 

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Like nvyseal states use a better grade gas.
Since the car is older I would try a higher octane rating like 91 or 93 instead of the 87.
These are high compression engines and knock comes easy if you lug the engine at lower rims.
You should now have the info you need to rid this issue and be in your way and congrats for teaching your son how to drive a stick.
It's becoming a lost art and fewer cars are coming with standard transmissions. 👍😎
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for all the feedback! I used pennzoil high mileage 5w30 motor oil. I usually buy gas at Sam's club, but will definitely put a tank of higher octane in it every other tank or so. I've been on him about not lugging the motor. I'm pretty sure that was the problem with the CEL coming on. Since I cleared the code, we've driven it a couple hundred miles or so and the light hasn't come back. Checked online and my vin number has no recalls associated with it. If the light comes back, I'll start by changing out the knock sensor. It looks to be fairly easy to get to, all things considered.

He's doing well learning the manual. I'm working with him on two issues now: don't lug the motor on take-off and don't shift so aggressively between gears. I've told him that most of driving a manual is about getting a feel for a car. I've driven them so long that I can develop a feel for a car within a few minutes of driving it. He's taking a bit longer, but I'm sure he'll get there.
 

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weekend racer
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pennzoil should be fine :)
 

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Hey all. First let me say, I'm new to the Veloster family. Just bought a 2013 Veloster Re:Mix for my son to take to college. It has the 1.6L GDI engine. Bought the car 2 weeks ago and I've been driving it everyday. Love it and plan to get a new one for myself (a Veloster N of course) soon as I can afford it. My son has never driven a manual so I've been teaching him how to drive it the past couple of weeks.

Here's the deal. The car has been driving like a dream and has handled well the abuse that a person who is first learning to drive a stick puts on a car. Of course, he's stalled it out quite a few times. Chosen wrong gears, missed gears, etc. Just the normal stuff people do when they're learning. I've continued to drive the car in between learning sessions and it has run and sounded great to me.

Let me provide a little timeline for context for the questions that are coming:
  • Monday (almost two weeks ago): purchased the car in Florida...drove it back to MS and it drove perfectly.
  • Friday: Changed the oil/oil filter. Owner's manual called for 5w20, but allowed 5w30 in hot climates. I used 5w30 bc we live in MS and it's hot as the devil's armpit! Figured the heavier weight would be better. Also discovered during the oil change that the filter on the car when we bought it was TINY...definitely not like the purolator filter that I bought at the auto parts store. However, the new purolator was supposedly equivalent OEM fit so I put it on there.
  • Saturday-Thursday: Car continued to drive like a dream.
  • Friday (yesterday...not quite two weeks after I bought the car): Drove car all day with no problems, son got a good bit of driving time in and only stalled it a couple of times. I drove it later in the day. On my way home, I cranked that car and everything sounded fine, but after lugging the motor while taking off the CEL came on. I say "lugging the motor," but in retrospect it really felt more like the car didn't have it's normal amount of power. Drove the car home and put my code reader on it. All three codes returned had something to do with the "Engine Knock Sensor" or the sensor circuit. Like I said, this car has run like a sewing machine so I cleared the codes, cranked it up and let it run a while, and no CEL came back.
  • Saturday (today): I drove the car about 50 miles just to see if the CEL would come back and it did not. Car ran great...plenty of power, but I did pay extra close attention to the engine sounds today. I was looking for any kind of knock, vibration, etc. that might indicate a preignition situation. Nothing. HOWEVER, I did notice that regardless of gear, there is a slight rattling sound that comes from the engine compartment between 2750-3250 RPMs ONLY WHEN the engine is under heavy load (in other words, I'm taking off and going through gears, really getting on it, or going up a hill). I wouldn't classify this sound as either a knock or a ping, but more as a rattle. I don't think this rattling sound is related to the CEL light, myself, but would welcome suggestions.
So, now that I've given context, let me ask a few of questions:
  1. What could have caused the codes to be thrown for Engine Knock Sensor? I'm considering that the sensor could be bad OR could be failing. Wouldn't there be some other kind of symptom if it was anything other than the sensor? Wouldn't the CEL come right back if there were truly an ignition issue? Could my son's stalling the car and rough shifting cause the sensor to throw a code?
  2. Is the rattle at 2750-3250 something to worry about or is it most likely some component in the engine compartment being affected by engine harmonics?
  3. Should I go back to the 5w20 suggested in the owner's manual? I don't think the 5w30 should be the issue, but is there a possibility that using a different weight oil could cause any of the things I've mentioned?
Thanks in advance for your help and comments. I can change out the Knock Sensor myself if I need to, but don't want to go down that road unless I really need to.
I have a 2014 nav dct
I've owned the car since mid 2016 and it had 40,500miles to begin with....
In 6 months time I managed to put 17,000 miles on her and as of tonight I have
211,xxx miles. I still get in it every day and drive the hell out of it( I'm hard on my vehicles).... with all that said, I know the rattling noise that u speak of... mine started about 2 years ago... same exact issue... under WOT at low rpm... if I'm in 6th gear, hit a slight incline and accelerate it sounds like a marble inside of a can being shaken.. I also have a nice tap tap tap at idle... not the hpf because the noise is on the other side of the motor, by the oil cap...it also started about 2 years ago... so 2 years has passed along with roughly 120k hard miles driven in that time. I've changed my oil roughly 25 times and still redlining it everyday...

I ONLY use K&N oil filters or Mobil one...
5w20 Lucus synthetic oil...
1 bottle of lucus synthetic oil stabilizer
(Except in the winter, I use 1/2 a bottle)
EVERY OIL CHANGE..
I've been told that K&N filters suck
I'm stupid for using oil stabilizer..
But I stand by my method because well
Who the hell else has a 14 nav with original engine and dct with 211k miles and counting...
Also I do a seafoam spray treatment every 20k miles to clean the carbon out..

The main thing is DRIVE THE HELL OUT OF IT!!! Never shift below 3k.. redline It daily
Dont baby it or carbon build up will destroy your motor...

Find a gas station that sells pure gasoline (ethanol free).. I run it 80% of the time in my nav...GDI+ETHANOL =CARBON.... carbon emissions are drastically reduced when using ethanol free fuel..

The catalytic converter will fail.. they clog very easily. Keep a eye on it and depending what state, just gut it🤫...
 
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