[FL2012ManualStylePkg]

I parked my car at the Orlando airport over the weekend. Last night I couldn't unlock car with key fob so I used key in driver's door. When I opened door there were no interior lights so I called Parking Lot Maintenance. He jumped the car and it starts but still no interior lights and windows won't roll down, no hazard lights, blinker lights, tails lights, so I had to leave it at airport parking. Lot Maintenance guy had me turn off car, restart it several times, tried to use fob for Lock, Panic, Unlock but nothing happened. He thought maybe something wrong with alarm system? blown fuse? Anyone have any ideas? Hyundai dealership had no help and just wants me to tow it to them $$.

 

[mdm]

Start with fuses. Go over the descriptions of all fuses (both fuse boxes!) in the manual and check if list of protected components for any of them matches what's not working. However quickly looking over the lists I don't see an obvious match. Possible suspects might be TAIL LP LH and INTERIOR LAMP in the cabin box aand B+ 1 and B+ 3 in the engine bay box, though none alone seems to explain everything you're describing. So either it's more than one fuse, or you made a mistake describing non-working components (happens often!) or it's something else.

 

[Stuart]

^^^

 

[FL2012ManualStylePkg]

I took it to the dealership and after 3 hours they tried a "full vehicle system discharge" which is they take off the battery cables and touch them to each other for 20 seconds and then reattach them to the battery. After they did that all the problems were resolved! However, on my way home the check engine light came on (didn't flash). I got it scanned at the auto parts store and it was P0326 which has something to do with "Knock sensor circuit range...?" The dealership said that wasn't anything electrical which is what they worked on but it was pertaining to the engine and to bring it in when I had the opportunity. The next day, however the check engine light went off and has been off all day. -- I just thought you all may find this interesting in case the same thing happens to any of you.

 

[aRabidTurtle]

Same thing happened to me Veloster. The dealership kept asking if I had someone try to jump it even though I told them no the first time they asked. Had to get the battery and a bunch of fuses replaced. The check engine light with the knock sensor error code kept showing up for a couple of weeks then stopped.

 

[FL2012ManualStylePkg]

Same thing happened to me Veloster. The dealership kept asking if I had someone try to jump it even though I told them no the first time they asked. Had to get the battery and a bunch of fuses replaced. The check engine light with the knock sensor error code kept showing up for a couple of weeks then stopped.

When I went to the dealership the next day they kept asking if it had been jump started with the cables reversed (no, duh). But what they ended up doing, 3 hours later, was a "full system discharge" which means they took the battery cables off of the battery and held them together for about 20 seconds and then everything was back to normal.

 

[Ricky-D]

With newer automobiles that are completely controlled by computers, we will be seeing more of these types of erratic electrical problems. The cure, which was simply a full reboot is pretty much identical to what you do with your personal computer at home every time you shut down. The explanation of why this procedure is necessary is because there are many stored information points that are maintained by battery current which can very hard to change or alter because some residual charges may still be present after disconnecting the battery. If these stored points become corrupted (just like on your home computer) it can be necessary to completely deactivate the system electrically in order to restore it to normal operating condition.

***

 

[RPW00Mirage]

FWIW i believe there is a knock sensor logic update for some years.

 

[colovelo]

I also had this problem this past weekend. I took it to a rural repair shop and the guy tested all the fuses. None were blown, he said some of them were not getting power to them.

Talked with a guy at the auto part shop and he said to unplug the positive lead from the battery for 10 seconds to reset the computer. Apparently this is a common problem across all makes/models with computerized electronics. Unplugged the + lead and reconnected it to find everything worked the way it should. Very easy fix. Dealers know about this trick and I'm sure it rakes in cash for them since they probably run all sorts of tests just so they can charge you to oblivion...

 

[Brynneck]

I took it to the dealership and after 3 hours they tried a "full vehicle system discharge" which is they take off the battery cables and touch them to each other for 20 seconds and then reattach them to the battery. After they did that all the problems were resolved! However, on my way home the check engine light came on (didn't flash). I got it scanned at the auto parts store and it was P0326 which has something to do with "Knock sensor circuit range...?" The dealership said that wasn't anything electrical which is what they worked on but it was pertaining to the engine and to bring it in when I had the opportunity. The next day, however the check engine light went off and has been off all day. -- I just thought you all may find this interesting in case the same thing happens to any of you.

Happening to me right now. Thank you I will have someone try this.

 

[SoaringMoose]

Been working on my 2013 veloster for two days with this issue, even the Hyundai shop had no idea.. Thank you.

 

[Itachi.vt]

QUICK DIY. My shifter was locked, lights weren’t engaging and my light indicators on my dash weren’t engaging either. My cabin light wasn’t coming on either. I inspected all my fuses and they all were operational. Read the thread and found this helpful video on YouTube. Solved all my issues. Hope this helps!