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Update: So it actually wasn't the sparks, although they were gapped improperly. It was my amp. I had disconnected my amp to fix the power wire, after the terminal got all bent, and today I hooked it back up and my car started driving poorly again. I unhooked my amp again and boom, back to driving normally. So it looks like my amp is affecting my car's performance in some way, shape or form. I think I may need a new amp since the one I have is rather old, or maybe my wiring is off or something. Thanks again for all of your help, especially those who explained to me the importance of changing my transmission fluid. I'm fairly new to this site and you guys have been awesome. Much appreciated.
Sounds like the extra electrical draw is affecting your car's performance. Before you go replacing equipment, double check power and ground wires to make sure connections are good and clean, to include fuse holders. You might also need to reroute your power wire away from sensitive electrical sections, like your coil-on-plug wires. What wattage system are you running?
 

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2015 RB Accent not so stock 馃か
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Update: So it actually wasn't the sparks, although they were gapped improperly. It was my amp. I had disconnected my amp to fix the power wire, after the terminal got all bent, and today I hooked it back up and my car started driving poorly again. I unhooked my amp again and boom, back to driving normally. So it looks like my amp is affecting my car's performance in some way, shape or form. I think I may need a new amp since the one I have is rather old, or maybe my wiring is off or something. Thanks again for all of your help, especially those who explained to me the importance of changing my transmission fluid. I'm fairly new to this site and you guys have been awesome. Much appreciated.
If your amp is affecting the car I'd check your grounds. It's an electrical issue then and either the amp is drawing a ton of current or your grounds need cleaning.

Glad you found the issue. Best of luck and welcome aboard. 馃檹馃徑馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Sounds like the extra electrical draw is affecting your car's performance. Before you go replacing equipment, double check power and ground wires to make sure connections are good and clean, to include fuse holders. You might also need to reroute your power wire away from sensitive electrical sections, like your coil-on-plug wires. What wattage system are you running?
I can post pictures of the wiring. It's a little janky, but everything is properly crimped and heat shrunk (shrinked?). The wires are away from my coil wires as well, and I do have fuse holders. I'm thinking it must be the grounds. It's a small system; 600W at peak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
If your amp is affecting the car I'd check your grounds. It's an electrical issue then and either the amp is drawing a ton of current or your grounds need cleaning.

Glad you found the issue. Best of luck and welcome aboard. 馃檹馃徑馃憤
Yeah I think it has to be the grounds. I think where I have the amp grounded isn't a good spot. I'll post pictures when I can, or maybe I should make new post elsewhere since this is posted in "engine and trans?"
 

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I can post pictures of the wiring. It's a little janky, but everything is properly crimped and heat shrunk (shrinked?). The wires are away from my coil wires as well. I'm thinking it must be the grounds. It's a small system; 600W at peak.
Wire gauge is important too. Did this issue start around the time you installed the amp or did it develop over time?
 

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Yeah I think it has to be the grounds. I think where I have the amp grounded isn't a good spot. I'll post pictures when I can, or maybe I should make new post elsewhere since this is posted in "engine and trans?"
You're fine here. After all, the issue you're having is with the engine. It's just that the cause seems to be electrical.
 

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Yeah I think it has to be the grounds. I think where I have the amp grounded isn't a good spot. I'll post pictures when I can, or maybe I should make new post elsewhere since this is posted in "engine and trans?"
It's the under hood grounds.
Hyundai grounds all their wires to a painted surface using the screw as the actual ground connection. 馃檮
Check the main battery ground and clean it up by scraping away the paint at the point of contact with the lug. It has to be bare metal for a proper ground.
there's a couple of other grounds in the engine bay that also need to be done properly as well.
Once they're all done then try reconnecting your amp and see how the car runs. 馃憤
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
Update: Hey, I don't know if yall are still around, but I finally got around to checking my grounds. I checked them with the car running and with it off and found no problems. All my grounds have had paint and rust removed so now I'm back to being completely stumped. I'm not so sure the amp is affecting this anymore as the other day I was driving without my amp connected and the sluggish acceleration started up again. It was running fine before, but it just randomly started happening again after driving for maybe 30 minutes or so. I've also found that turning my A/C seems to make the car run poorly as well, but I'm not 100% sure about that. It's been really hot lately (over 90F/32C) so driving without the A/C has been a pain.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Also I've read that cars rpms should drop when the A/C is turned on, but mine goes up from like 620 to 900. Is that normal?
 

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Usually drops, yes.

Maybe this...

"New amp, sub and a high output alt have been installed."

Not OEM? i assume

Might need to scan with GDS for codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Usually drops, yes.

Maybe this...

"New amp, sub and a high output alt have been installed."

Not OEM? i assume

Might need to scan with GDS for codes.
Yeah it doesn't drop it raises.

You are correct. The alt is not OEM. I have an OBD2 scanner and don't have any codes. Is a GDS different?
 

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2014 VT manual
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GDS can be used to run deeper diags.

I will check my idle tomorrow. 650 ish is idle. It should raise a little bit I would think?
 
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