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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
So I went ahead and checked the spark plug gaps and one was a bit wide. I fixed that, but here's the fun part. When taking out the second spark plug, the porcelain part breaks. So I'm like, "okay until I get a new spark plug to replace that one, I can put one of the old ones in there for the time being." Well a piece of the porcelain fell into the cylinder. I wrap a piece of wire in some tape to get it out, and now the piece of tape is stuck in there too. So yeah everything's going great.
 

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Lol okay good to know. I'll change the trans fluid asap and buy some OEM filters when I get paid. As for the grounds, I've seen that thread but I can't find the 4th, 5th, and 8th grounds pictured there. The original issue my car is having is that when my car warms up to operating temperature, my acceleration is super sluggish, at times if I'm on an incline I'll stall out trying to put it in gear. When the engine is cold, it drives as it normally should though. Also yes the idle speed is low, and drops to about 300rpms when I turn the wheel while idling.
For your 4th and 5th ground, since you have a manual, I wish I could help, but tbh I've no idea where they are. Pics in that thread show an auto, anyone else with a manual care to help?

For the 8th, the front bumper cover will have to be removed. The grounds are bolted into the frame on the driver side of the car, between the frame and the OEM airbox resonator (right by where a CAI would run, if you had one).
 

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So I went ahead and checked the spark plug gaps and one was a bit wide. I fixed that, but here's the fun part. When taking out the second spark plug, the porcelain part breaks. So I'm like, "okay until I get a new spark plug to replace that one, I can put one of the old ones in there for the time being." Well a piece of the porcelain fell into the cylinder. I wrap a piece of wire in some tape to get it out, and now the piece of tape is stuck in there too. So yeah everything's going great.
Yikes! Hope you've got a retrieval tool. Obviously don't start it until they're out. Easy to get pissed off at this, just consider the fact that if you're not careful, it could be made much worse. Worth taking the time to take it slow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
And again, not throwing any codes/lights on the dash? It's worth connecting a reader even if there are no lights just to confirm there are no pending codes. I'd do this right after reproducing the issue just to make sure.

Have you ever routed in oil catch cans, and if so, how long ago? If not, are your PCV and valve cover ventilation still routed the stock orientation? (Valve cover to intake, PCV to throttle body)

Have you ever pulled the throttle body and intake manifold? Carbon and oil residue buildup can be a massive problem on these engines, especially without catch cans. If you're comfortable with it, I would recommend pulling both and cleaning them out. This will also allow you to inspect the intake valves to see carbon buildup on the valves and intake runners. If this is sufficiently built up, it could cause the trouble with your idle. The extra load from the power steering draw on the alternator is putting extra load on the crankshaft and slowing the engine, and air can't get into the engine fast enough to keep it running at the correct idle. This is another one of those "you'll probably be glad you did it anyway" even if it's not the root cause.



If there IS an excess of buildup (post pics pls), there are a couple of options. While the intake manifold and throttle body can be cleaned out pretty easily with detergent and water, your only real options for cleaning the intake valves are either a chemical cleaner or walnut blasting.

A chemical cleaner is the easier option, where you get a friend or tool to hold the throttle at ~2500 RPM while you spray it into the throttle body in bursts to keep from stalling. While I personally haven't had any issues with using a chemical cleaner, there are people on these forums like trdtoy (who knows far more about these engines than I do) who advise against using them. Additionally, they're not all that effective, especially compared to walnut blasting. That said, it may be enough to get you vehicle running better, and for less than $20.

Walnut blasting is much more effective, and much more expensive. It can be done yourself if you have an air compressor, media blaster (harbor freight has cheap ones), shopvac, something to spin the crank, and an adapter for our intake runners. You can also check if a shop can do it, but I would expect to pay a couple hundred bucks to have them do it.
No codes, no pending codes. No catch can installed and yes still routed the stock way.

Yeah I thought about the carbon thing as well. I'm not sure how to open that up though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
For your 4th and 5th ground, since you have a manual, I wish I could help, but tbh I've no idea where they are. Pics in that thread show an auto, anyone else with a manual care to help?

For the 8th, the front bumper cover will have to be removed. The grounds are bolted into the frame on the driver side of the car, between the frame and the OEM airbox resonator (right by where a CAI would run, if you had one).
Okay I'll take a look for that 8th one when I get a chance
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Yikes! Hope you've got a retrieval tool. Obviously don't start it until they're out. Easy to get pissed off at this, just consider the fact that if you're not careful, it could be made much worse. Worth taking the time to take it slow.
Yeah fun stuff right? I have to go get one of those now. Thankfully I can just use my gf's car, but I had to step away and relax when that happened.
 

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No codes, no pending codes. No catch can installed and yes still routed the stock way.

Yeah I thought about the carbon thing as well. I'm not sure how to open that up though.
The throttle body is pretty simple: 4 bolts, vacuum line, two coolant lines, and the wiring harness. You can start at step 3 in this thread to get that off. You can do the coolant bypass at this point if you want to, up to you. Altogether, not that complicated.

Intake manifold is a little more complicated:
4 bolts into the block: Top left, middle, and right of the intake manifold, plus one underneath the throttle body. This last one is a PITA to get to, might have to feel around for it.
2 nuts between the top bolts on the intake manifold, can't miss them.
2 bolts attaching two separate brackets for connectors for various sensors, down low and at the front of the intake manifold. Definitely recommend pivoting socket extensions for these.
Vacuum line from intake manifold into a "T" piece over in the cluster of hoses right above the transmission.
Coolant lines, one that connects on top of where the oil filter screws into (wish I could be more descriptive, but that's the best I can give you.) and runs to the intake manifold, another that runs from the intake manifold right to where the throttle body coolant lines were just hooked into. If you did the coolant bypass, this will be much easier. If not, good luck, and have some spare coolant or distilled water on hand to replace what you're going to lose (good idea regardless).

The order I just mentioned is the order I removed the bolts and hoses, and that's how I would recommend doing it to anyone else. Once the intake manifold starts to come off, the coolant hoses and vacuum line I mentioned are much easier to see and deal with. Would definitely recommend keeping some bolts to plug the coolant lines on hand if you decide to try this. I think the lines are 3/8" (if you decide to do a complete bypass while you've got the lines off and want to get connectors).
 

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Lol okay good to know. I'll change the trans fluid asap and buy some OEM filters when I get paid. As for the grounds, I've seen that thread but I can't find the 4th, 5th, and 8th grounds pictured there. The original issue my car is having is that when my car warms up to operating temperature, my acceleration is super sluggish, at times if I'm on an incline I'll stall out trying to put it in gear. When the engine is cold, it drives as it normally should though. Also yes the idle speed is low, and drops to about 300rpms when I turn the wheel while idling.
You really only need to do the main ground from the battery negative and a couple of others. Thanks nice you get the car running good again continue with other grounds you find in the engine bay.
Removing the battery reveals 2-3 so you know.

Also you say it's sluggish when warm.
Since you have a '13 model the pedal throttle control could be going bad. It's a resistive piece that's variable in nature, think volume control knob, and like volume potentiometers similar to the pedal we have for throttle control these potentiometers get worn out.
It's easy to remove the pedal assembly, open it up, and have a look in there. Clean it up and put back together again to see if that solves some of your issues as well.

It's a shot in the dark but worth checking out.
Good luck. 👍🙏🏽🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
You really only need to do the main ground from the battery negative and a couple of others. Thanks nice you get the car running good again continue with other grounds you find in the engine bay.
Removing the battery reveals 2-3 so you know.

Also you say it's sluggish when warm.
Since you have a '13 model the pedal throttle control could be going bad. It's a resistive piece that's variable in nature, think volume control knob, and like volume potentiometers similar to the pedal we have for throttle control these potentiometers get worn out.
It's easy to remove the pedal assembly, open it up, and have a look in there. Clean it up and put back together again to see if that solves some of your issues as well.

It's a shot in the dark but worth checking out.
Good luck. 👍🙏🏽🤞
I'll have to figure out how to open that up. I can't do anything right now since I got that piece stuck in the spark plug hole earlier today, so if I can't get it out, which is looking highly unlikely right now, I'll have to bring it to a mechanic tomorrow to fish it out.
 

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I'll have to figure out how to open that up. I can't do anything right now since I got that piece stuck in the spark plug hole earlier today, so if I can't get it out, which is looking highly unlikely right now, I'll have to bring it to a mechanic tomorrow to fish it out.
If it's metal a magnet stick can pull it out.
Hope you get it out. 🙏🏽🤞
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Item #79041 Model #70396
See lowes
Just bought one of those from Home Depot. No luck. It's a small piece of the insulator from one of my spark plugs. It's too small for that tool to grab, and I can hear it clanking around when I turn the car on. It's not a very big piece at all, but I don't know if it'll cause any damage if I leave it in there. Tried the grabby thing, tape on a stick, and a vacuum. No dice. The piece of tape got stuck too, but I got it out.
 

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Just bought one of those from Home Depot. No luck. It's a small piece of the insulator from one of my spark plugs. It's too small for that tool to grab, and I can hear it clanking around when I turn the car on. It's not a very big piece at all, but I don't know if it'll cause any damage if I leave it in there. Tried the grabby thing, tape on a stick, and a vacuum. No dice. The piece of tape got stuck too, but I got it out.
You could try using a damp piece of cloth. Turn the crankshaft by hand until that piston is at the top of its travel and insert a damp cloth into the cylinder to try and get that tiny piece of ceramic to adhere to it. I'd use an actual fabric cloth for this to avoid something like a paper towel falling apart inside of the cylinder.

Shopvac makes a mini kit that might also work if you happen to have a 1.25 inch shopvac hose lying around.
Found on Lowes under "Project Source 1-1/4-IN MICRO CLEANING KIT"; I have one and can't imagine you wouldn't be able to vac it out with this. Also incredible for detailing our cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
You could try using a damp piece of cloth. Turn the crankshaft by hand until that piston is at the top of its travel and insert a damp cloth into the cylinder to try and get that tiny piece of ceramic to adhere to it. I'd use an actual fabric cloth for this to avoid something like a paper towel falling apart inside of the cylinder.

Shopvac makes a mini kit that might also work if you happen to have a 1.25 inch shopvac hose lying around.
Found on Lowes under "Project Source 1-1/4-IN MICRO CLEANING KIT"; I have one and can't imagine you wouldn't be able to vac it out with this. Also incredible for detailing our cars.
How do you turn the crankshaft by hand? Only problem with a shop vac is I live in an apartment and I can't plug it in outside.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·

3:44 only turn clockwise, and if you don't know what he is turning, maybe see a mechanic.
Oh okay I know what and where that is. I'll give it a shot. If it doesn't work I'll take it in. Interesting how I came in here with one problem and now I got a whole other one going on lol. Thanks for the help yall.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
So I've fixed the spark plug gaps and got that debris out of the spark plug hole, and the car is running fine now. I'm going to keep an eye on how it's accelerating, but so far so good. I bought some new spark plugs since that one ended up breaking, and I'm just going to replace them all as well as the coils too. Thanks for you help guys!
 

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So I've fixed the spark plug gaps and got that debris out of the spark plug hole, and the car is running fine now. I'm going to keep an eye on how it's accelerating, but so far so good. I bought some new spark plugs since that one ended up breaking, and I'm just going to replace them all as well as the coils too. Thanks for you help guys!
Glad to hear it and something as simple as spark plug gaps. 🤞
Good luck and keep us abreast of the situation. 😎
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Update: So it actually wasn't the sparks, although they were gapped improperly. It was my amp. I had disconnected my amp to fix the power wire, after the terminal got all bent, and today I hooked it back up and my car started driving poorly again. I unhooked my amp again and boom, back to driving normally. So it looks like my amp is affecting my car's performance in some way, shape or form. I think I may need a new amp since the one I have is rather old, or maybe my wiring is off or something. Thanks again for all of your help, especially those who explained to me the importance of changing my transmission fluid. I'm fairly new to this site and you guys have been awesome. Much appreciated.
 
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