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Brake Lines (not brake hoses) Replacement Questions

10K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  RPW00Mirage 
#1 · (Edited)
I have a leaking brake line from corrosion, leaking from mid/rear section of the car. I intend to replace the rear lines myself. I've never done this before, but I have been studying the process, tools, and brake line layout on my car. I have to say there is a ton of information on brake hoses, and almost nothing on brake lines that I could find (except general cutting/bending/flaring).
From what i understand so far, after removing the splash shield, I’m going to disconnect the rear lines from the brake hoses to the ABS pump. (Rear Passenger line goes up behind the charcoal canister so that will have to be disconnected for access.)


Then use the old lines as a template for bending new lines. (thats over simplifying but my uncertainty is in the connections)
Planning on stainless steel lines and renting a flaring kit

questions;
-What size are the brake lines for the 2012 Veloster (non Turbo)? 3/16 or 1/4?
-Do the brake lines connecting to ABS pump need an adapter for a double flared line?
-Where should I disconnect first? at wheel or ABS pump?
-Do I need a special plug for ABS ports while line is off?

I’d appreciate any input, thank you
 
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#2 ·
I must say that you are going to be embarking on a journey fraught with aggravation and little chance of success.

Just the issue of the reverse flare is a most difficult operation with plenty of frustration accompanying the trial and error.

Because the brake lines are steel, the difficulty of correctly bending them to yield a product that will precisely fit is only and usually relegated to machine computer bending.

That is why the correct brake line is available to purchase with a guaranteed proper fit.

I mean, just the job of installing a new brake line is a very difficult job, especially the line you need to replace, and increasingly so without a lift to aid in the access to the underside of the car.

I predict you will expend considerably more money doing it your way, to end up with an acceptable and safe final product.

It could be that since the car is Korean, the brake lines may be mm instead of inches.
 
#3 ·
doing hard lines by hand is a completely **** job. i've done it a few times now. if i could have purchased preformed lines i would have. my hourly wage vs the hours i spent doing lines from front to back was more than a wash lol

the biggest trouble is at the firewall side, going up between the frame and the firewall and the complex bends there.

then making the flares :) you would be wise to use a flare tool for what you need, and figure out if it's a double or bubble or single. i managed to do all the bubble flares on the kia using a double flare tool and some ingenuity. i could have spent $60 on the proper tool but i used what i had.

yeah - if you can get preformed lines... do that :)

i did the hardlines from the prop valve all the way to the wheel cylinders on the kia.
i did the same on our old elantra. the cars were not much different...

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#6 ·
-What size are the brake lines for the 2012 Veloster (non Turbo)? 3/16 or 1/4?
-Do the brake lines connecting to ABS pump need an adapter for a double flared line?
-Where should I disconnect first? at wheel or ABS pump?
-Do I need a special plug for ABS ports while line is off?
-What is the part number for pre-bend brake lines?
 
#7 ·
not many if any have done this... we are not going to have the info offhand unfortunately. you may need to crack some lines to find out.

my kia had double AND bubble flares. hopefully everyone has learned their lesson and only used one type of flare. you can look at replacement abs modules and such close up to see what kind of flare they are. as for the line diameter you may need a caliper.

you can check for the part numbers at jim ellis hyundai or hyundaioempartsdirect those are the sites i use to get numbers.
 
#9 ·
In case anyone else is looking for this information:

I was able to successfully replace both rear Brake lines, on my own in about 13-15 hours as an amateur first time. Honestly the hardest/most frustrating part was removing and reinstalling the splash shield for the lines, but with a lil persistence and some cursing it can be done. I had to search around for this information and do a bit of studying, in case anyone else is looking to attempt brake lines/tubes/pipes here is the specs and tools needed as well as hind-sight tips.

Equipment/tools needed:
-3/16 brake line, for rear lines you’ll need approx. 30ft. (I could not find pre-bend/pre-flared lines for the V, though they MAY be out there some where)
Stainless Steel = cheaper, coated with rust prevention, stronger-can’t be re-bent too much
Nickel-Copper = more expensive, resistant to corrosion, more malleable-can be re-bent
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Photograph Hood Black Line Automotive exterior

-10 mm socket, 12mm socket, 14mm deep socket
-11mm, 12mm line wrench,
-pliers for hose clips,
-small flat heat screw driver (retaining clips etc.)
-small phillips screw driver (plastic retaining screws on splash shield)
-Bubble flare kit
-Tubing cutter for 3/16
-tubing pliers for 3/16
-replacement line nuts (unless reusing old ones)
-file(s) cleaning/de-burr line ends/cuts
-Brake Line caps/plugs/sleeves to plug/cap the line/union, not necessary but helps from leaking brake fluid all over the place
-catch can/ shop rags/ water spray bottle (to neutralize spilt brake fluid) good to have on hand if just in case.

Things to Disconnect/ remove;
-Remove wheels to access mounted line-union (There is NOT a lot of room for the wrench much less turning it, like a 5º swing, shorter the better)
-disconnect line nuts at both ends (11mm line nut, 12mm union) **the new line nuts I got were also 12mm
-Remove The Vapor/charcoal canister (10mm mounting bolts X4, 2 hoses-spring clip and an electrical pry-clip)
-Fuel tank support nuts (14mm deep socket)
-Fuel tank hose at fill neck (Pliers/Spring-clip)
-splash shield (small screw drivers)
-E brake line mounting bolt (x2 12mm) for extra room

FUEL TANK:
I did NOT have to drop the fuel tank, (but may be easier if you do) it was tricky but I was able to remove and install the lines with some of finesse, and some cursing *pulled out through the wheel wells (approx. 60-90 min. on my own/first time). Although I did not have to drop the fuel tank, I did have to loosen the tank’s support straps, as the RearPassenger line runs behind them as well as the charcoal canister (make sure you support the tank first). I used a 14mm deep socket on the support strap nut, You may be able to use a wrench but there is not much swing room and a lot of thread. I also had to disconnect a fuel hose at the fill neck hose (secured with spring clip)

FLARING:
All the line ends and connections are (metric) ISO 37º Bubble flares (common for european/Korean cars..alegedly)…SAE 45º double flare standard for US/Japanese cars (for distinction). Renting tools/Kits for bubble flares are harder to come at least in my area of the US. I purchased a cheap kit ($30) you definitely get what you pay for, but with practice it works just fine, plus the good kits are $250-300 so....
**bubble flares are metric, but all the lines I could find were labeled as just 3/16, or as 3/16/4.75
from what i could find people just use 3/16 lines in the 4.75 slot**
When flaring and bending the line, you are essentially fabricating a new part, the flare needs to be even on top, and have a good seat on the bottom. So watch at LEAST 5 different youtube tutorials on bubble flares, and make at least 30 practice flares, Theres plenty of tutorials on flaring out there, the point I want to make is, this is a skill, you will need some practice, it is not one or two test runs.

BENDING:
when bending the new line, obviously use the old one for a template, I used twist ties to hold the old and new line together after a few bents to prevent it from flopping around too much. I had tube pliers but I did a majority of the bending by hand, as it was more malleable than I was lead to believe.
I made the longer Rear PS line too long even though it was lined up to the old one, in hind sight I would have measure the old line with string to compare to the new line as an extra gauge for length. I just cut and re-flared the line on the car, so if that happens to you its doable. Another hindsight idea: with a white paint marker or china marker mark the old line (still on the car) on the sides facing you at key points (at the line mounts brackets, wheel-well to under carriage bend, or significant turns/dips, before and after the straight portions) as extra bend and orientation gauge.
 
#11 · (Edited)
both my rear lines are corroded at their up-bend in the rear wheel well. I have the part numbers for the replacement rear lines. Is it the kind of job where two people could bang this out in less than 8hrs with a lift?

EDIT: just realized the parts I found were the connector tubes, not the full lines. HyundaiPartsDeal doesn't seem to list the prebent lines... does anyone have a part number for them?
 
#12 ·
I was not able to find pre-bend lines, I had to fabricate both rear lines from scratch. It was intimidating but in hind sight really not too bad. I was able to uninstall, fabricate and reinstall the lines myself start to finish in about 10-13 hours (most of that time was going slow as I had never done it before, if i had to do it again I'd estimate half that time).
 
#15 ·
great news, guess who is doing rear brake hard lines on this car?!?!
 
#17 ·
hyundai couldnt get me the full lines, they are on permanent back order.


i am doing this now, only the lines under the aero panel are rough.. so i am going to union and flare 6ft of line for both sides just after the front connector and back to just behind the e-brake bracket. everything that was properly coated looks great.
 
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#19 ·
Replacing brake lines is a challenging but doable task, especially if you've been studying the process and have the right tools. Here are answers to your questions:
  1. Brake Line Size: The brake lines for the 2012 Veloster (non-Turbo) are most likely 3/16 inches. However, to be sure, you should measure the existing brake lines or consult your vehicle's service manual.
  2. Brake Lines to ABS Pump: Generally, brake lines connecting to the ABS pump require a double-flared end. You'll need to create a double flare on the new lines to match the existing ones.
  3. Disconnect Order: It's usually recommended to disconnect the brake lines at the wheels first, as this allows for a more controlled and gradual draining of the brake fluid. Start with the rear passenger side, then rear driver's side, and finally move to the front wheels.
  4. ABS Port Plugs: Yes, it's essential to use special plugs for the ABS ports while the lines are off. These plugs prevent dirt and debris from entering the ABS system during the replacement process.
Keep in mind that working with brake lines requires precision and attention to detail, especially when creating the flares. Stainless steel lines are a good choice for their durability, but make sure to follow proper bending and flaring techniques to ensure a secure fit. If you feel unsure at any point during the process, it's wise to seek guidance from a professional or a knowledgeable friend who has experience with brake line replacements.

Good luck with your brake line replacement, and remember to prioritize safety throughout the process.
See Also : how to cap off a brake line

# Visit GenuineCarInfo
 
#20 ·
SS lines are a PITA i use nicopp instead.

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