In case anyone else is looking for this information:
I was able to successfully replace both rear Brake lines, on my own in about 13-15 hours as an amateur first time. Honestly the hardest/most frustrating part was removing and reinstalling the splash shield for the lines, but with a lil persistence and some cursing it can be done. I had to search around for this information and do a bit of studying, in case anyone else is looking to attempt brake lines/tubes/pipes here is the specs and tools needed as well as hind-sight tips.
Equipment/tools needed:
-3/16 brake line, for rear lines you’ll need approx. 30ft. (I could not find pre-bend/pre-flared lines for the V, though they MAY be out there some where)
Stainless Steel = cheaper, coated with rust prevention, stronger-can’t be re-bent too much
Nickel-Copper = more expensive, resistant to corrosion, more malleable-can be re-bent
-10 mm socket, 12mm socket, 14mm deep socket
-11mm, 12mm line wrench,
-pliers for hose clips,
-small flat heat screw driver (retaining clips etc.)
-small phillips screw driver (plastic retaining screws on splash shield)
-Bubble flare kit
-Tubing cutter for 3/16
-tubing pliers for 3/16
-replacement line nuts (unless reusing old ones)
-file(s) cleaning/de-burr line ends/cuts
-Brake Line caps/plugs/sleeves to plug/cap the line/union, not necessary but helps from leaking brake fluid all over the place
-catch can/ shop rags/ water spray bottle (to neutralize spilt brake fluid) good to have on hand if just in case.
Things to Disconnect/ remove;
-Remove wheels to access mounted line-union (There is NOT a lot of room for the wrench much less turning it, like a 5º swing, shorter the better)
-disconnect line nuts at both ends (11mm line nut, 12mm union) **the new line nuts I got were also 12mm
-Remove The Vapor/charcoal canister (10mm mounting bolts X4, 2 hoses-spring clip and an electrical pry-clip)
-Fuel tank support nuts (14mm deep socket)
-Fuel tank hose at fill neck (Pliers/Spring-clip)
-splash shield (small screw drivers)
-E brake line mounting bolt (x2 12mm) for extra room
FUEL TANK:
I did NOT have to drop the fuel tank, (but may be easier if you do) it was tricky but I was able to remove and install the lines with some of finesse, and some cursing *pulled out through the wheel wells (approx. 60-90 min. on my own/first time). Although I did not have to drop the fuel tank, I did have to loosen the tank’s support straps, as the RearPassenger line runs behind them as well as the charcoal canister (make sure you support the tank first). I used a 14mm deep socket on the support strap nut, You may be able to use a wrench but there is not much swing room and a lot of thread. I also had to disconnect a fuel hose at the fill neck hose (secured with spring clip)
FLARING:
All the line ends and connections are (metric) ISO 37º Bubble flares (common for european/Korean cars..alegedly)…SAE 45º double flare standard for US/Japanese cars (for distinction). Renting tools/Kits for bubble flares are harder to come at least in my area of the US. I purchased a cheap kit ($30) you definitely get what you pay for, but with practice it works just fine, plus the good kits are $250-300 so....
**bubble flares are metric, but all the lines I could find were labeled as just 3/16, or as 3/16/4.75
from what i could find people just use 3/16 lines in the 4.75 slot**
When flaring and bending the line, you are essentially fabricating a new part, the flare needs to be even on top, and have a good seat on the bottom. So watch at LEAST 5 different youtube tutorials on bubble flares, and make at least 30 practice flares, Theres plenty of tutorials on flaring out there, the point I want to make is, this is a skill, you will need some practice, it is not one or two test runs.
BENDING:
when bending the new line, obviously use the old one for a template, I used twist ties to hold the old and new line together after a few bents to prevent it from flopping around too much. I had tube pliers but I did a majority of the bending by hand, as it was more malleable than I was lead to believe.
I made the longer Rear PS line too long even though it was lined up to the old one, in hind sight I would have measure the old line with string to compare to the new line as an extra gauge for length. I just cut and re-flared the line on the car, so if that happens to you its doable. Another hindsight idea: with a white paint marker or china marker mark the old line (still on the car) on the sides facing you at key points (at the line mounts brackets, wheel-well to under carriage bend, or significant turns/dips, before and after the straight portions) as extra bend and orientation gauge.