Battery drain.

an update
So I noticed randomly when I get out of the car and make sure all doors a shut the domes lights stay on. And after about 30seconds begin to get dim. And after I noticed that eveything in that car was dim and the dash said “fuse on” in the center. And could not crank. Still have no clue what is causing this

How old is the battery?

"Fuse on" I believe is a switch on the fuse panel that the dealer turns ON when delivered. Look to see if it is fully switched.

the battery is like 4 years old. and tests perfectly on the old fashioned load tester. that is the type with a coil of wire inside that heats up. and yes the fuse on is fully switched.
i have noticed once and a while the domes lights will not turn off. like once in every 4 starts. ass inn start the car idle for a min then get out. not sure why this is.

Yeah, I would probably replace the battery and go from there, or have another test done on it with something along these testers usually found at dealers, more common these days. (No offense.)

i have a buddy that works at a vw dealer i ca probably get it tested on their machine. i hope its the battery but with my luck its something in the car draining it

From personal experience, I remove the black plastic covers over the positive terminal, couple zip ties and clips holding it. Clamps better, also seen corrosion without use of the felt washers on terminals. Always better to test a battery "out of vehicle". just some tips, but the new testers test everything, so do it.

ok, i have kept up with the cleaning of the terminals always cleaning them and using dielectric grease.

Yep, it's your battery.
And the dome light goes off in just that way.

Tony8033 said:

So my 14 VT keeps going dead and idk why nothing is staying on headlights are off and eveything. When I load test the battery it shows fine. But after it sits for an hour or two the voltage drops to 6v. Iv made sure eveything if off.
after putting a meter inline with the pos terminal it show 30MA draw. Which makes no sense why it would die in an hour or two. Especially after a load tester was put on it and it passed with flying colors. Also after jumping the voltage is 14.5 so the charging system is working fine. Any idea would be much appreciated.

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I

had a similar problem with my battery draining overnight and dying. It turned out to be a faulty rear hatch actuator that shorted and kept drawing the battery. The actuator was covered by Hyundai thankfully.

2015 V Re-Flex said:

had a similar problem with my battery draining overnight and dying. It turned out to be a faulty rear hatch actuator that shorted and kept drawing the battery. The actuator was covered by Hyundai thankfully.

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I’m wondering if this is what is happening with my 2016... put a charge on it again yesterday (replaced the battery already) and noticed that the trunk lock was switching on and off.

I have seen some good answers and some bad ones here. If you don’t know a lot about complex electrical systems and/or automotive technology in general, do not try to diagnose this problem yourself. Most auto parts places like AutoZone or https://batterytools.net/ will run a charging system diagnosis for free. If this doesn’t show a problem then the problem is more complex and you should take your vehicle to a good repair shop and have them find the problem.
One of the most dangerous methods I saw in an answer is to start your car then remove the cables to your battery and see if the vehicle still runs without the battery. DO NOT EVER DO THIS! Automobile electrical systems are complex, including the charging systems in today’s cars.

Vikki14716 said:

I’m wondering if this is what is happening with my 2016... put a charge on it again yesterday (replaced the battery already) and noticed that the trunk lock was switching on and off.

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How was this fix mine doing the same I believe the bottom is stock or something

AndersonSilva said:

One of the most dangerous methods I saw in an answer is to start your car then remove the cables to your battery and see if the vehicle still runs without the battery. DO NOT EVER DO THIS! Automobile electrical systems are complex, including the charging systems in today’s cars.

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🤨🧐
Funny that I've done this for years when checking the alternator to see and diagnose a charging issue. 🤷🏼‍♂️
You only remove the negative post so what's the big deal?
Oh I'm a full class A Marine Electrician with 40 years as an electronic tech so maybe I know a little something about complex electrical systems. 🤷🏼‍♂️😉
1 post pony comes in here to stir the pot. 🙄🖕🏻

LOL, yeah, I've done this too, and to be honest, I would change the battery out this way so customers would not lost their presets and such, BUT, it seems these newer cars, my Honda anyways, it just shuts the car off. Must be the sensor on the terminal.

SVTfocusO3 said:

LOL, yeah, I've done this too, and to be honest, I would change the battery out this way so customers would not lost their presets and such, BUT, it seems these newer cars, my Honda anyways, it just shuts the car off. Must be the sensor on the terminal.

Battery sensor: how it works, problems, checking, battery replacement

What is a battery sensor in a car, problems, checking, replacement; changing a battery with a battery sensor

www.samarins.com

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Yeah I got rid of that sensor long ago. 😂🤷🏼‍♂️😉
I understand why it's there and the benefits but for what I'm doing don't need it.

I also have this issue, 2013 V with new battery and recently replaced the trunk hatch button (it broke)
I have not run a fuse test but the battery does die everh day despite being new. If i drive it enough to charge it it may last a few days but i do not drive enough every day and so i just use a portable jumper to jump it EVERY. SINGLE. TIME i need to start the car 😭😭 i need to run the fuse test but unfortunately this model seem to have problems🥲 i still love her

Tony8033 said:

So my 14 VT keeps going dead and idk why nothing is staying on headlights are off and eveything. When I load test the battery it shows fine. But after it sits for an hour or two the voltage drops to 6v. Iv made sure eveything if off.
after putting a meter inline with the pos terminal it show 30MA draw. Which makes no sense why it would die in an hour or two. Especially after a load tester was put on it and it passed with flying colors. Also after jumping the voltage is 14.5 so the charging system is working fine. Any idea would be much appreciated.

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I have a the same drain issue too. I saw this Youtuber doing/fixing the same topic on (2012 I think) Elantra (it's this guy with very heavy "R" accent, maybe Russian). Anyway, he was/is saying that it's a defective diode inside the Alternator causing the battery drain. Whenever I accelerate to around 2500RPM, the red battery icon (dashboard) would flash, not above or below this rpm#. I kind of agree that YouTuber. My alternator is still the OEM.