Does it say that on the cluster?
2015 Turbo Randomly shuts off while driving
I replaced the battery in the key fob but every now and then while driving the car will suddenly stop seeing the fob and shut off sometimes it kicks back on right away and sometimes i have to restart it, usually the RPM gauge stops moving after this occurs. Any help?
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Yes the little no key light kicks on. stays on if my car fully shuts off or blinks for a second if it does not.
I wonder if it’s something else…. Have you tried pushing the fob with the key and then driving ?
i have not tried that. Will do that tomorrow and see if it happens still. It shuts off about once a ride.
very annoying.
very annoying.
Tach going dead after it shuts off makes me wonder if the crankshaft position sensor doesn't have something to do with it; I had a similar problem but without the key-not-detected symptom - it would randomly cut out (and usually bump-start itself back to life immediately) while driving, sometimes followed by a loss of tachometer function.
After it shuts off and turns back on, especially when the tachometer stops working, does it also feel like it has a throttle limiter in place or is otherwise in some form of limp mode? If you come to a stop afterwards, does it idle higher than usual, and if so, does "higher than usual" mean exactly 1000 RPM?
After it shuts off and turns back on, especially when the tachometer stops working, does it also feel like it has a throttle limiter in place or is otherwise in some form of limp mode? If you come to a stop afterwards, does it idle higher than usual, and if so, does "higher than usual" mean exactly 1000 RPM?
It can sometimes feel that way for sure but stopping does not feel like higher than usual idle. I tried the key fob idea above to no avail. A note! This issue usually happens only once at the start of my ride after say 5 or so minutes. It will happen more if i place the key fob in the cup holder.
Do you have another FOB? If not, have you thought of getting another one? You're going to be in a world of hurt if you lose or damage the one you have now.
Revisiting this to say that i paid attention today and it certainly felt exactly like this.Tach going dead after it shuts off makes me wonder if the crankshaft position sensor doesn't have something to do with it; I had a similar problem but without the key-not-detected symptom - it would randomly cut out (and usually bump-start itself back to life immediately) while driving, sometimes followed by a loss of tachometer function.
After it shuts off and turns back on, especially when the tachometer stops working, does it also feel like it has a throttle limiter in place or is otherwise in some form of limp mode? If you come to a stop afterwards, does it idle higher than usual, and if so, does "higher than usual" mean exactly 1000 RPM?
I do not but it is on the list of things to get. Fun fact i have had 4 cars in my life and never had a spare key. EVER.Do you have another FOB? If not, have you thought of getting another one? You're going to be in a world of hurt if you lose or damage the one you have now.
Rent a code reader and see if you have any crankshaft position sensor codes, but note that sometimes it takes a few times of this happening before it will throw a CEL.Revisiting this to say that i paid attention today and it certainly felt exactly like this.
If you replace the CPS, be aware that it comes in two different wire lengths, one made for the NA and one for the turbo, and that Autozone's database listed them both as being compatible with the turbo back when this happened to me. I told the counter guy, but I have no idea if he passed it up the chain or if anything was ever done about it. Definitely take the old one out first and take it to the store to compare.
I have the exact issue defined above on my 2015 Tuebo. Took it to the dealer and they said they could not find anything wrong with it. They drove it around a couple of times and could not replicate it. If this was a crankshaft position sensor issue, wouldn't they had seen it pop up during the diagnostics?Rent a code reader and see if you have any crankshaft position sensor codes, but note that sometimes it takes a few times of this happening before it will throw a CEL.
If you replace the CPS, be aware that it comes in two different wire lengths, one made for the NA and one for the turbo, and that Autozone's database listed them both as being compatible with the turbo back when this happened to me. I told the counter guy, but I have no idea if he passed it up the chain or if anything was ever done about it. Definitely take the old one out first and take it to the store to compare.
Maybe not. This car seems to not set codes until it also sets a CEL, and it often won't set a CEL until the problem becomes severe. With me it didn't do so until the issue had recurred multiple times.I have the exact issue defined above on my 2015 Tuebo. Took it to the dealer and they said they could not find anything wrong with it. They drove it around a couple of times and could not replicate it. If this was a crankshaft position sensor issue, wouldn't they had seen it pop up during the diagnostics?
So you think changing the crankcase sensor could fix the issue?Maybe not. This car seems to not set codes until it also sets a CEL, and it often won't set a CEL until the problem becomes severe. With me it didn't do so until the issue had recurred multiple times.
The crankshaft position sensor is not an expensive part, maybe 30 bucks. It would definitely be something worth trying in my estimation. Change out the crankshaft position sensor. 👀
FWIW, I changed the crankshaft position sensor and no issues since… been almost a month now.The crankshaft position sensor is not an expensive part, maybe 30 bucks. It would definitely be something worth trying in my estimation. Change out the crankshaft position sensor. 👀
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