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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone, on a drive down to Louisiana from Indiana, my VT suddenly started acting really weird and shuddering badly. I managed to coax it to a dealership near Nashville, TN, where the diagnosis was grim: it did as the 2013s do and threw a rod, totally borking #2 cylinder and who knows what else is damaged. The car had 103,000 miles on it.
I've done some looking online but it seems our engine is hard to come by. I'd like to price out a 2014 or newer engine so that this doesn't happen again. Since engines are 2-3k, and labor would probably be something similar, I might just scrap the car, blue book on it is around 7k, I am not sure that it would be worthwhile to fix. Let me know any thoughts or recommendations you might have as far as rebuilding/replacing the engine.
Thanks,
 

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I think the decision should also take into consideration the overall condition of the car, exterior and interior. If the condition is crappy, then sell the car as is, but if the condition is good, replace the engine.
 

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^^ like he said - if the car is in good shape find a 14+ motor to stoss in!
 
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I would find a 14-up engine and install it. I tried to go the new-short-block-from-Hyundai route and it was a months-long circus of national backorder and excruciatingly slow shipping, plus multiple reassembly delays apparently caused by trying to combine an original cylinder head with a new-production block. My car spun a bearing back in July and I might be getting it back tonight. Though on the other hand, in the process of taking it apart, the shop found a worn-out turbocharger and broken timing chain guides, so I'm glad for that.

(And I'm planning to commemorate the occasion by shaving and getting a haircut for the first time in roughly a year.)
 
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Hi everyone, on a drive down to Louisiana from Indiana, my VT suddenly started acting really weird and shuddering badly. I managed to coax it to a dealership near Nashville, TN, where the diagnosis was grim: it did as the 2013s do and threw a rod, totally borking #2 cylinder and who knows what else is damaged. The car had 103,000 miles on it.
I've done some looking online but it seems our engine is hard to come by. I'd like to price out a 2014 or newer engine so that this doesn't happen again. Since engines are 2-3k, and labor would probably be something similar, I might just scrap the car, blue book on it is around 7k, I am not sure that it would be worthwhile to fix. Let me know any thoughts or recommendations you might have as far as rebuilding/replacing the engine.
Thanks,
I know your pain, at 108k part of my piston broke off of my #4 piston. The engine was no longer available from Hyundai. Used engines were 31 to 34k from LKQ and local yards. I went searching and found a complete car on Copart auction and bought it, swapped engine and am now in the process of rebuilding my engine and selling the second car. It has been an adventure to say the least with Heli coil inserts and timing etc. Just curious, what are your plans with the car?

What's the difference between the 13 and 14 engine anyway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I know your pain, at 108k part of my piston broke off of my #4 piston. The engine was no longer available from Hyundai. Used engines were 31 to 34k from LKQ and local yards. I went searching and found a complete car on Copart auction and bought it, swapped engine and am now in the process of rebuilding my engine and selling the second car. It has been an adventure to say the least with Heli coil inserts and timing etc. Just curious, what are your plans with the car?

What's the difference between the 13 and 14 engine anyway?
Right now I’m just saving up some money to have it towed to a shop and see if there is any chance of rebuilding without replacing the engine. Most likely gonna sell it after that with full disclosure and either get a newer vt or something different
 

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I know your pain, at 108k part of my piston broke off of my #4 piston. The engine was no longer available from Hyundai. Used engines were 31 to 34k from LKQ and local yards. I went searching and found a complete car on Copart auction and bought it, swapped engine and am now in the process of rebuilding my engine and selling the second car. It has been an adventure to say the least with Heli coil inserts and timing etc. Just curious, what are your plans with the car?

What's the difference between the 13 and 14 engine anyway?
Apparently, stronger conrods. The original 2013-model conrods weren't strong enough to withstand the engine's own stock power output and would bend over time. Sometimes, as in my case, this leads to worse and worse oil burning until the engine runs dry and suffers complications from that; apparently, sometimes they just plain throw rods instead. I've heard the problem can show up from around 40K miles, but my experience and this thread lead me to believe that just over 100K is when the failure usually becomes catastrophic.
 

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Hi everyone, on a drive down to Louisiana from Indiana, my VT suddenly started acting really weird and shuddering badly. I managed to coax it to a dealership near Nashville, TN, where the diagnosis was grim: it did as the 2013s do and threw a rod, totally borking #2 cylinder and who knows what else is damaged. The car had 103,000 miles on it.
I've done some looking online but it seems our engine is hard to come by. I'd like to price out a 2014 or newer engine so that this doesn't happen again. Since engines are 2-3k, and labor would probably be something similar, I might just scrap the car, blue book on it is around 7k, I am not sure that it would be worthwhile to fix. Let me know any thoughts or recommendations you might have as far as rebuilding/replacing the engine.
Thanks,
I had the same thing happen to me but reason happening was my fault. Basically I had no knowledge of doing an engine swap and competed it in 3 days of constant studying and working. Came out perfect. Then I ran into a knock in that new engine and did a complete engine rebuild. myself. Again zero knowledge, until now. I'll tell you from experience, to just drop the car and take the lose. It will only get more expensive from her. Although I was petty and fixed everything my self I would advice no one else to do the same. Waste of money. Feel free to ask questions tho. I know every inch of this engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I had the same thing happen to me but reason happening was my fault. Basically I had no knowledge of doing an engine swap and competed it in 3 days of constant studying and working. Came out perfect. Then I ran into a knock in that new engine and did a complete engine rebuild. myself. Again zero knowledge, until now. I'll tell you from experience, to just drop the car and take the lose. It will only get more expensive from her. Although I was petty and fixed everything my self I would advice no one else to do the same. Waste of money. Feel free to ask questions tho. I know every inch of this engine
Thanks man I might take you up on that.
 

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"The original 2013-model conrods weren't strong enough to withstand the engine's own stock power output and would bend over time."

That is patently false and has never been the case.

Evidently the poster has never been exposed to the condition known as LSPI.

Because it is this specifically (LSPI) that has been the cause of such family of failures.
 

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partially correct. newer models received beefier internals due to this.
 

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"The original 2013-model conrods weren't strong enough to withstand the engine's own stock power output and would bend over time."

That is patently false and has never been the case.

Evidently the poster has never been exposed to the condition known as LSPI.

Because it is this specifically (LSPI) that has been the cause of such family of failures.
But I'm assuming the tougher parts used in newer models were still intended to prevent damage from this problem?
 

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At some point in the gen 1 the compression ratio went from 9.5:1 to 10:1 (I think 2014-15 area) so there was definitely an internal change. And I'm 99.9% sure the head and gasket did not change (maybe valves and Cam idk).

Higher compression can increase the likelihood of LSPI, so there must have been a change in the tune as well (the likely culprit of LSPI).
 

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Hi everyone, on a drive down to Louisiana from Indiana, my VT suddenly started acting really weird and shuddering badly. I managed to coax it to a dealership near Nashville, TN, where the diagnosis was grim: it did as the 2013s do and threw a rod, totally borking #2 cylinder and who knows what else is damaged. The car had 103,000 miles on it.
I've done some looking online but it seems our engine is hard to come by. I'd like to price out a 2014 or newer engine so that this doesn't happen again. Since engines are 2-3k, and labor would probably be something similar, I might just scrap the car, blue book on it is around 7k, I am not sure that it would be worthwhile to fix. Let me know any thoughts or recommendations you might have as far as rebuilding/replacing the engine.
Thanks,
I would recommend a wrecked gen 1 with as low millage as possible. I bought one, and had it delivered for 4k from iaai.com that had 22k/mi. That way you get a new motor, trans, ecu, ect.

A rear end total loss wreck is all you need to find. Or even a T bone
 
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