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Thread: Is it bad to switch between conventional and synthetic??

  1. #1
    Junior Member Katney's Avatar
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    Is it bad to switch between conventional and synthetic??

    I just got my 2017 in April and went cross country over the summer. Well..now I have 18900 miles on her. I've stayed on top of the maintenance, but I've run into this problem where for the second time, I've taken it to a shop for an oil change and regardless of the fact I've said "full synthetic" the put in conventional AGAIN.

    The other time this happened was the second time I got an oil change, the third time I talked to the mechanic and he said it wouldn't hurt to go full synthetic again since it was only once. But how about now? Can I go back to full synthetic, or am I stuck using conventional now?

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  3. #2
    Senior Member Incognito's Avatar
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    It won't harm anything by alternating between the two.
    2015 Veloster Turbo

  4. #3
    Super Moderator RPW00Mirage's Avatar
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    welcome to the club! you're fine to go back. have you considered going to a dealer for an oil change? mine washes and vacuums the car. i use conventional and change my oil around 3K.
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  6. #4
    Junior Member Katney's Avatar
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    That's a relief. I've heard mixed things about switching back and forth being bad for the engine.. you'd figure they'd want to go right ahead with the more expensive option..but alas haha

  7. #5
    Junior Member Katney's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RPW00Mirage View Post
    welcome to the club! you're fine to go back. have you considered going to a dealer for an oil change? mine washes and vacuums the car. i use conventional and change my oil around 3K.
    My dealership wants to overcharge, then nickel and dime me for everything. The last time I went in there, they tried to tell me that I messed up by buying aftermarket windshield wiper blades cause they won't hug the windshield right and blah blah. The ones that came on the car where frankly THE WORST. I had to change them the second day I had the car. 😂

  8. #6
    Super Moderator RPW00Mirage's Avatar
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    i developed a pretty good relationship with the service department until about a year ago the good techs and writers all moved to the next closest dealership. just dont let them push you around. i had a CEL and told the service writer i knew what part was failing and to find out if that part was covered under warranty. they went ahead and diagnosed the trouble without my consent then tried to charge me for the diagnosis. long story short i left just paying the fee for my oil change.
    2012 Boston Red Veloster NA Base Manual BTRcc tuned 167whp / 138wtq SOLD!
    TK.COM CAI/catback - Nameless poly motor mount - BTRcc 89 octane tune

    2014 Vitamin-C Veloster Turbo Base Manual
    K&N panel filter - Nameless poly motor mount - Curt hitch - CF filler cap
    Hawk ceramic pads - PMS torsion bar - UNIQ front strut bar

    2001 Emerald Green Metallic Kia Rio Manual
    Overhauled suspension - H&R springs - 1Gb control arms / torsion rods

    A6D 1.6L DOHC swap complete! - new hubs/knuckles/brakes next.

  9. #7
    Senior Member NovaResource's Avatar
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    Switching back and forth won't hurt the engine.

    About dealerships, not all dealership service departments are crooks. I live in Philadelphia but my daughter drives the Veloster in Kentucky because that's where she goes to school. I always change my own oil on all my cars but I can't do it on the Veloster while it's 600+ miles away. And my daughter doesn't have the tools or even the place to do it herself when she's at school, so I've sent her to the local dealership. They have done 2 oil changes and even replaced the battery. The last oil change they did cost $39.43 (with conventional oil). My cost for the oil and filter when I do it is usually around $28 (with Mobil1 synthetic). The battery replacement was $138.20 installed. When I replaced the battery myself on my 2011 Forte, the battery alone cost me $124.
    Last edited by NovaResource; 11-17-2018 at 11:08 AM.

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    Junior Member raffrantic's Avatar
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    Amsoil Dominator 10w30 + 150ml Liqui Moly Mos2 Anti-Friction Engine Treatment, very satisfied with the engine fluency low regimes especially, but also at high.

  11. #9
    Senior Member Blaster's Avatar
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    I always buy my own oil. Yes it's more money, but it's part of the cost of driving.

    The whole switching thing kills engines was a problem from a very long time ago with first gen synthetics and really old engines that were held together by sludge. If you never used synthetic for the entire 200,000+ lifespan and then switched, you'd see problems. On a new car, don't worry, just make sure you use full synth next time.

    Also, do use full synthetic. GDI engines require well formulated oil for longevity and to reduce the severity of the problem. There is a certification that must be met for GDI engines. In addition, if you live in cold weather, synthetic flows more consistently when cold. Also full synthetic is tested to perform better in reducing engine wear, especially in severe conditions (driving hard, extreme cold or hot). And not TV ads testing, like testing.

    P.S. I give up trying to link references if the forum software is just going to vomit broken tags everywhere when I try to make link links instead of embeds.
    Last edited by Blaster; 03-26-2019 at 11:58 PM. Reason: The editor wigs out when I link a youtube as a link and not as an embedded video, like seriously can we fix that please?

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