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Thread: Tailgate Will Not Unlock At All Electronically

  1. #21
    Super Moderator RPW00Mirage's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aqutis View Post
    I'm going to take the switch assembly out and take a look at it, but I'll most likely will have to go to the parts department at the local dealership and order it unfortunately. Here is why I'm having a hard time believing it could be the switch and I very well could be wrong here because I don't read electrical schematics very much.

    Door Locks Switch -> Latch Actuator <- Tailgate electric switch or is it possible that a bad switch could be in the circuit before the electric door locks and it being the tailgate switch in the end.

    I'm sorry I keep trying to figure this out but I would really like to not get raped by the dealership. I took it in about a month ago and the guy told me it was out of warranty and would cost around $750 to $800 to fix. F that!
    lol, my dealer that ive been going to since 2012 tried to tell me it was $400-ish to replace a $45 purge valve. i told them to take a hike.
    Last edited by RPW00Mirage; 02-15-2018 at 01:47 PM.
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  3. #22
    Member Aqutis's Avatar
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    Ok guys, the culprit has been found. I took out the tailgate assembly/garnish and found that the plastic cradle that the electric switch sits down in has broken on both sides. What this did was make it lose the semi-tight fit of the rectangular shaped electric switch board. There is nothing that holds it in but gravity and the friction of it being a tight fit. I tried gluing the broken pieces back together but the switch was still moving, so it would work for a bout 2-3 pushes but after that it was pushed up to high to work at all. I had to order the entire Garnish piece just to get the black plastic cradle part and should be getting it Wednesday. Hopefully the switch will fit in it snugly and work every time I click the button through the rubber piece on the outside. Thank you for all of your advice in this process.
    Energized and Ricky-D like this.

  4. #23
    Senior Member Ricky-D's Avatar
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    Good sleuthing there. Resourcefulness is a positive attribute.

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  6. #24
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    Hi, my name is Matthew, I'm in the UK. Just wondered what the outcome was for your tailgate locking issue please ? I have the exact same problem, already tried the lock replacement with no joy, I've ordered the switch from Hyundai for collection tomorrow, I do hope that solves it 🙏

  7. #25
    Senior Member Ricky-D's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattyd View Post
    Hi, my name is Matthew, I'm in the UK. Just wondered what the outcome was for your tailgate locking issue please ? I have the exact same problem, already tried the lock replacement with no joy, I've ordered the switch from Hyundai for collection tomorrow, I do hope that solves it 
    The answer to your question is in Post #22

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  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aqutis View Post
    Ok guys, the culprit has been found. I took out the tailgate assembly/garnish and found that the plastic cradle that the electric switch sits down in has broken on both sides. What this did was make it lose the semi-tight fit of the rectangular shaped electric switch board. There is nothing that holds it in but gravity and the friction of it being a tight fit. I tried gluing the broken pieces back together but the switch was still moving, so it would work for a bout 2-3 pushes but after that it was pushed up to high to work at all. I had to order the entire Garnish piece just to get the black plastic cradle part and should be getting it Wednesday. Hopefully the switch will fit in it snugly and work every time I click the button through the rubber piece on the outside. Thank you for all of your advice in this process.
    I am having this exact same issue and went through a few other tries before coming across this - Can you direct me to the part you ordered? I'm 3 weeks out of warranty and don't feel like being raped by a dealer.

  9. #27
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    Alright, I was able to fix it without going to a dealer, just getting around to posting this now for anyone else experiencing this problem. Aqutis had the right idea according to our issues. I was able to order this piece:
    https://www.jimellishyundaiparts.com...73702V000.html

    I removed the release button on the inside of the new assembly and installed it on my existing assembly which was relatively easy to take apart. The only weird thing I had had to do with the backup camera. The wiring is a little strange, but on models with a backup camera all the wires go into the same plug, even though some come from the backup camera and some come from the button. It was harder to do this way as we had to remove the wires from the plug, and swap them out with the existing unit so that I could keep my backup camera and everything functioning properly. Once I swapped the wires and reconnected everything it all worked like a charm, though getting the wires in/out was not my specialty and I had to get some help from a friend on that.

    The alternative would have been to order this assembly https://www.wholesalehyundaiparts.co...73702V010.html and then swap both the camera and the button, but the extra $200 didn't really seem worth it considering my camera was working just fine.

    If anyone has questions they can message me here and I'll try to help them through it.

  10. #28
    Super Moderator RPW00Mirage's Avatar
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    nice work? did you take any photos?
    2012 Boston Red Veloster NA Base Manual BTRcc tuned 167whp / 138wtq SOLD!
    TK.COM CAI/catback - Nameless poly motor mount - BTRcc 89 octane tune

    2014 Vitamin-C Veloster Turbo Base Manual
    K&N panel filter - Nameless poly motor mount - Curt hitch - CF filler cap
    Hawk ceramic pads - PMS torsion bar - UNIQ front strut bar

    2001 Emerald Green Metallic Kia Rio Manual
    Overhauled suspension - H&R springs - 1Gb control arms / torsion rods

    A6D 1.6L DOHC swap complete! - new hubs/knuckles/brakes next.

  11. #29
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    I am sorry, I did not take photos though I really should have. I'm not very experienced working on cars, the hardest part for me was taking the paneling off of the hatch. Everything else was straight forward. The wiring was also beyond my skills but once my friend was doing it I saw it wasn't really that difficult, just kind of finicky.

  12. #30
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    I had same problem. No sound from fob or manual push switch, to unlock the trunk. After reading this I realized it was the switch [($40 USD) Part # 81260 2V000 for 2013 Turbo]. I replaced the switch, and took some photos. Worked like a charm. I have attached them for reference.
    Tools required; philips screwdriver, 10mm socket.
    Pry off paneling, by pulling straight away from the trunk.
    Unplug Latch assembly
    Unplug switch assembly
    Remove Latch assembly (3x 10mm bolts)
    Remove tailgate garnish assembly that has the switch (3x 10mm nuts)
    Remove the switch from the garnish assembly (4x phillips screws)
    Put in the new switch and re-assemble everything in reverse order.
    Total time, 30 min, tops.
    Tailgate Will Not Unlock At All Electronically-1.jpg

    Tailgate Will Not Unlock At All Electronically-2.jpg

    Tailgate Will Not Unlock At All Electronically-3.jpg

    Tailgate Will Not Unlock At All Electronically-4.jpg
    jkt1954, nvyseal, Ricky-D and 3 others like this.

  13. #31
    Super Moderator nvyseal's Avatar
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    Thank you for the tutorial, this will be very helpful for member with this problem
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  14. #32
    Junior Member pgabbate's Avatar
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    I have same issue with my 2015 V with only 33400 miles on it. It is covered under my warranty and the are also replacing the charcoal canister. I am also have a battery drain when the car sits overnight. I had 2 batteries installed so far. Dealership said a cell is bad, the place where I got the battery tested it and said the battery is good. I’m hoping the bad actuator is causing the drain so it will be fix once the dealership installs the part.

    I never owed a car with so many issues before...

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