Pulled the trigger on two needed mods for my 2016 Turbo. Thought about MBRP & MagnaFlow but with connection made at downpipe it cut out the required catalytic needed to pass NY Inspc. sooo, Got good price on the Borla cat back touring (I wished they had the option for the sport muffler but no). It doesn't sound as good, with sound bites I'd heard, as the TurboKits A.B.E. on old NAV which was awesome. Went with the K&N cold air induction Typhoon set up. It closely mimicked the TurboKits set up I had on my 2012 NAV which was a proven hp increase set-up. Really looking forward to these upgrades and a little warmer weather for install. tbc....
Glad u didnt get the mbrp. Its total crap and so is their customer service. Im in NY and i had a bad experience with them. I heard alotta other people also had the same prob as i did. But goodluck with ur upgrades hope to see u out there
Like i said, i know alotta people who have had problems with that exhaust. Im not saying everyone has had a bad experience, but i definitely had a bad one and when i tried to reach them by email or phone i had no luck.
MBRP showed no fitment for 2016 Turbo, was not SS but aluminized steel w/3yr warranty, MagnaFlow was $150 more. Borla was the only good option left for price & warranty, although a little quieter than I like its a great performance boosting option mod..
Your entitled to your opinions but dyno tests prove you wrong with the mods added. I was directly involved with testing of TurboKits Axle Back Exhaust & Cold Air Induction systems they developed for the NAV. My 2012 V is actually shown in the dyno video clip. For the Turbo V, K & N posts their results here: http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/69-5312_dyno.pdf.for their CAI. I do not yet have dyno testing results on Borla unit but have NO DOUBT of the R & D they do prior to releasing a new performance product.
I question why the two of you are so quick to knock these companies. Stating your opinion is one thing, backing it up with fact is another.
There is a well known saying regarding opinions which I'm sure your aware of.
Dyno testing is negligible, and anything gained from bolting parts on without a tune can be attributed of any number of correction factors used on the dyno. I have nothing against either company, but the facts are, your ECU only has a finite amount of learning ability and can't compensate for parts that are simply bolted on. So, there is that.
But seriously Drew and Tuns are right, there are small increases with bolt-ons I know this as FACT from my experiences with my 2016 turbo, I didn't get full potential until I did the ECU upgrade (Torks BTW). It's my opinion that you add all your bolt-ons then do your ECU last. That way your ECU can be tuned to all the modifications you have done before and after the engine.
I'll agree to disagree with their opinions. I have no doubt a "tuned ECU" will increase potential from bolt on mods. To say bolt on mods giving negligible hp increase without providing proof to their opinion is full of hot air. Show me the dyno test results not conjecture.
When a dyno test before mods and after mods is provided documenting the hp gains, in my case 13 at wheel h.p. with TurboKits CAI & ABE design on my 2012 V and it is blown off as "negligible" they loose credibility with their opinion.
As well, altering a ECU will void drivetrain warranty where as the exhaust & CAI mods alone will not "Moss-Magnuson Act".
the 2016 turbo flanges are indeed different so now, the 2013-2015 turbo catbacks wont bolt up.
second, i documented and showed that without a tune, good components will net a power increase. even more so with a tune. ray and i had the same parts. and for facts, i could easily outrun all the other NAVs at 2 different HMC meets. now my tuned NAV couldn't touch even my stock turbo, but that is another discussion.
third, ray, you should have asked... the K&N CAI isn't that great. the diameter of the pipe isn't big enough. 6EE and TORK make a fantastic CAI as well as catch cans most people avoid MBRP products because their quality is lacking though, we've seen it documented on the other forum that they leave welding slag in the pipes, not great weld penetration, and sometimes the pipes are not completely aligned when welded.
RPW....
I knew you were out there somewhere. My bad on not contacting you regarding the intake choice. I will admit K & N intake makes more noise.
Exhaust wise I did go for the Borla catback after all and really like the sound quality, very similar to my old NAV with the TurboKits axle back. and use of existing exhaust tips was cool.
I am not doing any dyno runs of installed mods. I saw the process in 2012 with TurboKits.com during my NAV's R & D phase of CAI & ABE design and testing. It was a learning experience at that. I gained 13 wheel h.p with their CAI & ABE on NAV. I expect probably getting in that ballpark or more with K & N / Borla combination on Turbo. I'll place some faith on K & N and Borla manufacturer's dyno test results for the Turbo model.
These are the only performance mods I see myself making on my new Turbo and enjoy every time I get behind the wheel. Maybe a track day at Lime Rock Park in it's future for ****'s and giggle's.
Well if the computer is programmed to take in a specific amount of air and inject a specific amount of fuel at a specific RPM then why would adding a bolt on increase the power? The only adjusting that the ECU does is trying to readjust to the stock parameters so that it meets whatever specifications that it is set to. It's not going to just be like "Okay I have all this air flow now. Time to pump in more air and more fuel! Lets go!"
So there was no actual scientific process that took place when you did this? No control group or variation on different dynos? I didn't think so. That's not proof, that's all conducted in a vacuum of your ONE car on ONE dyno with your SPECIFIC mods. Sir, that is not proof.
As far as the better driver comment, that was in regards to saying you could outrun all the NAVs. It's a huge difference when you're an experienced driver, even in drag racing, and can make a HUGE difference in times and can't necessarily be attributed to simply bolting on parts. Why? Because that's not how it works.
Care to elaborate? I mean, I understand that you probably don't know how the maps in the ECU work and all, but I'd like to see your standpoint.
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Veloster Forum
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