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Thread: sparkplugs

  1. #1
    Senior Member SALVO's Avatar
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    sparkplugs

    has anyone changed there sparkplugs and or spark plug wires if so what did u go with it and did it make any difference
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    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    I haven't swapped plugs yet in my Veloster but I use NGK V-power's in my GSR. They are cheap enough and work great. Remember that a spark plug is an expendable part and in my opinion can be changed often. I'd swap mine every 6 months or so but in the Veloster I don't see the need to swap them but once a year or 2 since it doesn't turn over 6800 rpm.

  4. #3
    Senior Member SALVO's Avatar
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    do u feel any kind of difference



    Quote Originally Posted by GreyGhost12 View Post
    I haven't swapped plugs yet in my Veloster but I use NGK V-power's in my GSR. They are cheap enough and work great. Remember that a spark plug is an expendable part and in my opinion can be changed often. I'd swap mine every 6 months or so but in the Veloster I don't see the need to swap them but once a year or 2 since it doesn't turn over 6800 rpm.
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    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    I was playing with NGK platinum, iridium and V-power coppers one night at the drag strip several years ago. They were all brand new plugs. I was running coppers on the first 2 passes and got my timeslips. I then did nothing else but swap to the platinums and made 3 more passes. I then did nothing else and swapped to the iridiums and made 3 more passes. Then finally I made 2 more passes without changing anything else on the V-power coppers I originally had in the engine. Interestingly enough the platinums and iridiums idled smoother and "seemed" to rev up smoother than the coppers. But, in the end, the coppers were averaging almost .1 second faster on all passes as compared with the other 2 much higher priced sets of plugs. I'm sure there were other variables in the mix but the coppers performed better overall as compared with the other plugs. I'm not the only person at the drags that has noticed that in their high revving engines. Now, this is for an engine running 10k rpm so the same thing may not apply to a 6800 rev-limited engine. But I'd be willing to give it a shot for about $10-12. I can't say I actually "felt" any kind of a difference because if you can actually tell a .1 second difference in the quarter mile I'd say you're not human but a computer, lol. But the timeslips don't lie...
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    Senior Member Variable's Avatar
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    I've Had them out just to Check the gap. They are Irridium Power Plugs which are very good. I did adjust my gap from .28 to .40 which is in factory range of .28- .43. Or 1.0-1.1. Since we have A High Voltage Ignition System, I thought I'd widen the gap alittle.
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    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    Typically since the iridium plug is a fine wire plug you don't adjust the gap on them. They're very delicate and you can very easily break the electrode right off. I'm curious how you regapped your's without damaging them? I'm guessing you have a very very steady and delicate hand, like that of a surgeon.

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    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    Oh yeah, I've always found that I set the gap at factory spec then widen the gap in very small increments until I start getting misfires. Then drop the gap back .005" smaller and leave it there. You can also effectively advance the timing a bit by using extended reach plugs. Just so long as the piston dome doesn't hit the piston upon dwell @ TDC.

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    MTD
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    Senior Member MTD's Avatar
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    I would think that the engine being a GDI that it might require specific plugs.
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    Senior Member Variable's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreyGhost12 View Post
    Typically since the iridium plug is a fine wire plug you don't adjust the gap on them. They're very delicate and you can very easily break the electrode right off. I'm curious how you regapped your's without damaging them? I'm guessing you have a very very steady and delicate hand, like that of a surgeon.
    My Fueler gage has a tool that lets you open the plug end or bend back the end slightly without butchering or breaking the electrode. I did this slowly until the .40 fit.
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    Senior Member Variable's Avatar
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    And your right on par with this statement: You can also effectively advance the timing a bit by using extended reach plugs. Just so long as the piston dome doesn't hit the piston upon dwell @ TDC. The plugs we have are 2 inches long at the base.
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  12. #11
    Senior Member Variable's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTD View Post
    I would think that the engine being a GDI that it might require specific plugs.
    The norm used by VW/Audi That has been using FSI or TFSI which is Direct Injection, Is Irridium Plugs, Because the Smaller Electrode Seems to make a Hotter/Stronger Spark.
    Last edited by Variable; 02-20-2012 at 10:11 PM.
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    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    It is very possible a non-copper plug can/will work better in a DI engine. I'm most familiar with PFI engines. I saw no gains with non-copper plugs in those engines. I'm going to look into this as time permits.

  14. #13
    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    So I finally pulled my plugs to check them and never-seize them. They looked nice and clean with 7k miles on them but all 4 gaps were all over the place. .029", .032", .034", and .036". I'm not sure why that is since NGK's are usually within .001" in a set of 4. I'm guessing they have bins and bins of these plugs at the factory and they just toss them all in without checking any gaps. Well, I set all 4 to .040" and went for a test drive. No CEL's no misfires or anything. It seems to run a bit smoother and the mpg's weren't down any. In fact I might have gained some but I think that's being too optimistic too soon. I can't see going 100k on a set of plugs especially without never-seize! So I should be good for a few years unless I decide to swap them out sooner. At least I'll be able to get them out next time too!

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    Senior Member XGC KOUP's Avatar
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    All I can tell you from a mechanical standpoint is not to use anything other than Denso or NGK plugs for our make of vehicle. They are made speciffically for the foreign auto market ie: Honda, Hyundai, Mitsubishi, etc..
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    Senior Member texascat2's Avatar
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    That's good to know, I need to pull mine and check them!
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  17. #16
    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    I couldn't agree more! I tried Bosch in my GSR and what a waste of money! I won't use anything but NGK's on my Hyundai unless Denso has a cheaper plug of like denomination. Typically it seems Denso are a bit more expensive than the NGK's and perform the same in my book.

  18. #17
    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    No problem texascat2. Oh yeah, be careful with the plug in at the fuel pump. It's a little tight there. You've got to gently snake your 5/8" socket around the valve cover breather hose and the fuel pump plug in. I had my ST bar to snake around too but I managed just fine. It took about 20 minutes from running, to plugs out, gapped, and never seized and back to running again.

  19. #18
    Senior Member velogangster's Avatar
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    NGK for the win!
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    Keep it gangster.

  20. #19
    Senior Member velosteray's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreyGhost12 View Post
    So I finally pulled my plugs to check them and never-seize them. They looked nice and clean with 7k miles on them but all 4 gaps were all over the place. .029", .032", .034", and .036". I'm not sure why that is since NGK's are usually within .001" in a set of 4. I'm guessing they have bins and bins of these plugs at the factory and they just toss them all in without checking any gaps. Well, I set all 4 to .040" and went for a test drive. No CEL's no misfires or anything. It seems to run a bit smoother and the mpg's weren't down any. In fact I might have gained some but I think that's being too optimistic too soon. I can't see going 100k on a set of plugs especially without never-seize! So I should be good for a few years unless I decide to swap them out sooner. At least I'll be able to get them out next time too!
    Thanks for the advice. I am gonna check my gaps and never seize the plugs. Any helpful hints to getting them out or are they easily accessible?
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  21. #20
    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    They come out very easily. I use a section of 3/8" hose to slip over the top of the spark plug to remove and reinstall them. I'm not too fond of the 5/8" socket with rubber insert (designed to remove spark plugs) but I'm sure if you have one it will work just fine.

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