I searched and couldn't find anything about this so I apologize if this has been mentioned before.
I am in Canada and I have a manual V. With my old accent I would start the car, lock the door then head inside while my car warmed up, this was when it was like -20 outside. I had my spare key to unlock the door a few minutes later and I had a toasty warm car.
Can this be done with the proximity remote and push button start of the V? Am I right that when you leave the one remote in the car you can't lock the doors because it still senses the remote? But you can't take the remote with you because the engine will stop when it stops sensing the remote's signal right?? So what can I do?
I think a remote start on the manual V push-button start isn't even an option is it?
I searched and couldn't find anything about this so I apologize if this has been mentioned before.
I am in Canada and I have a manual V. With my old accent I would start the car, lock the door then head inside while my car warmed up, this was when it was like -20 outside. I had my spare key to unlock the door a few minutes later and I had a toasty warm car.
Can this be done with the proximity remote and push button start of the V? Am I right that when you leave the one remote in the car you can't lock the doors because it still senses the remote? But you can't take the remote with you because the engine will stop when it stops sensing the remote's signal right?? So what can I do?
I think a remote start on the manual V push-button start isn't even an option is it?
I tried this to no avail. The car stayed running when i took the key with me and left the car, but I could not do anything to get the doors to lock. So, back to square one.
Does it say somewhere in the manual that the engine turns off when the fob is removed from the car? I thought it was just a check to *start* the engine. I would assume that constant checking the key fob for presence whenever you drive it would drain the battery in it...
No one is paying any attention to you, but they should. I read long ago that once they started making engines out of aluminum, there was no need to "warm" it up - it won't crack like the big ol' pig iron engines would. However, leaving an aluminum engine in idle for any extended length of time *can* damage it. Can't speak for the environment, but I just drive slowish for the first mile or two and that does the trick. True, it's not all toasty warm when I get in, but it only takes a few minutes of driving. Just my 2 cents...3 cents Canadian.
I tested the "Go without key" and it works. I left the key home after starting the car, rolled away for more then 400m without anything happening except the KEY OUT warning beeping once in a while.
In the manual, theres a mention of "Auto setting" in the odometer digital menu. But never could get it up. "It says to press TRIP for X seconds" while the engine is ON.
Theres suppose to be an option for auto unlock. I wanted to set it to OFF so I could manualy manage the door locking. But failed to reach the menu in question.
Veloster manual, not very accurate it seems. Maybe theres an other way, and they didnt change the text in the manual....
I do this every morning.
Bring key, unlock door. start. walk away with key in hand.
Car will beep for a few seconds. It will stay running for 15 mins
doors wont lock but if someone wants to steal it, they only have 15 mins in a cold car to have theyre way with her.
I've never heard of "hurting" an aluminum engine by letting it idle for prolonged periods of time. May I ask where you heard this statement? I had a Ford Windstar van I accidently let idle for 10 hours and it never skipped a beat! I sold it with over 200k miles on it with no engine issues. If the cooling system isn't up to par and the cooling fan(s) doesn't come on then I can say you'd have catastrophic engine failure for sure. Otherwise I can't say I agree with that statement.
Lol howd you do that. anyways one time there was a dodge caravan left on my street running for 12 hours till i went to look at it and notice locks and ignition were punched out. called the cops.
It was a very long tiring day... I replaced the rotted and leaking lower waterneck on the waterpump and flushed all the crappy anti-freeze out and refilled. I flushed it a few more times with softened/filtered water and put the heater on full hot to get a good circulation and flush in for one last time... I went inside and accidently fell asleep on the couch!! I woke up with screaming all kinds of profanity the next morning hoping I didn't cook the engine. Low and behold it was idling away nice and smooth. It felt lot a hot summer day in the sun inside the van when I opened the door... WHEW!!
i'm not warming up the engine, i'm warming up the interior car so i can drive it! cold steering wheel, visibility through windshield, you know things like that. i hear its bad for the engine, but i figure crashing my car is worse. and even though i scrape the windows when i sit in the car and breathe (!) it frosts up the inside.
it's threads like these that help me justify to myself living in northern California, and paying the higher prices.
Till I joined this forum, I had never even heard of "winter tires n wheels"
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