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Thread: First oil change (oil type)

  1. #1
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    First oil change (oil type)

    I live in South Florida where it almost never drops below 60F much less (50F or 40F). I have some leftover 10w-30 from my last car (that suggested that type of oil until 100k miles where the suggestion was 10w-40 I think). I know that the manual suggests 5w-20 but would it hurt it much to use up the rest of this stuff instead? My car's still at 400 miles so that time is a ways off, but I would like to know now for when that time comes.

    Also, if it is ok, what ramifications are there to using a different oil type however slight?

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  3. #2
    Senior Member smellypanda's Avatar
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    As cheap as oil is, I would just buy what's recommended. I know heavier oil can reduce mpg and hyper milers suggest the lightest weight you can run.

    I only run thicker when I get high miles on a vehicle


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  4. #3
    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    You should run as "thin" of an oil as possible especially in an OHC vehicle like ours. Anything "heavier" than 5w20 and you're asking for a lot of wear in a short amount of time. Remember, 90% of engine wear occurs at start up. The properties of oil are opposite of what most people think.

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    Senior Member XanRules's Avatar
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    The manual says that 10w30 is fine. So, 10w30 is fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by GreyGhost12 View Post
    You should run as "thin" of an oil as possible especially in an OHC vehicle like ours. Anything "heavier" than 5w20 and you're asking for a lot of wear in a short amount of time. Remember, 90% of engine wear occurs at start up. The properties of oil are opposite of what most people think.
    I'm sorry, you're saying that the thinner the oil, the less wear will occur?

    What?
    Stop PM'ing me, I already answered all your questions.

  6. #5
    Senior Member smellypanda's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by XanRules View Post
    The manual says that 10w30 is fine. So, 10w30 is fine.


    I'm sorry, you're saying that the thinner the oil, the less wear will occur?

    What?
    Thicker oil is good when the engine is old and the tolerances are opened up a bit, that's why some people run a thicker weight when their valves start to tick, it fills the gap better. It's better to run thin when the engine is tight though


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    Senior Member Airmcnair's Avatar
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    I'm sorry, you're saying that the thinner the oil, the less wear will occur?

    What?[/QUOTE]

    Yes, a thinner oil flows thru the motor faster and starts doing its job. A thicker oil takes longer to get where it needs to go.
    First thing in the morning, cars sitting for 8+ hours. I want oil to get to the top of my motor and lubricating ASAP.
    That's one of 2 reasons why Toyota/Scion now requires 0w20. That and it's thinner so it has less drag and is more fuel efficient.


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    It is a foolish exercise to begin this timeless debate on this forum. Those who wish to argue the merits of thin oil vs heavy oil should take their discussion to www.bobistheoilguy.com or Google the topic 'thin vs thick motor oil.
    XanRules likes this.

  9. #8
    Senior Member XanRules's Avatar
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    True enough.

    I'm using 5w30, personally.
    Stop PM'ing me, I already answered all your questions.

  10. #9
    Member Boston Red's Avatar
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    I am using Amsoil 0W20 for both maximum protection and mileage.
    2012 Boston Red Veloster - Style and Tech. HID's, High Flow Intake (custom).

  11. #10
    Senior Member KEKinSTL's Avatar
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    WOW, 0W20. Haven't seen that on the shelf.
    Sometimes I need to ask for 5W20. Don't know if it is in such demand or they don't stock it 'cause it's new (meaning only the last 5 years or so).
    I'll watch for the Zero. Should we ask Hyundai if it's OK. They have everything else
    fixed, right?
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  12. #11
    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but this is the internet afterall. I don't believe a lot of what is posted on bobistheoilguy.com. There are lots of truths over there and lots of non-truths at the same time. Without any personal experience on the subjects, how are YOU going to know who or what to believe? I'm going from my past 25 years of experience around cars and what works for me. I will say that most people don't understand the designations of oil and how it works. Typically if you need to go to a "thicker oil" it's time for a rebuild. Also, oil doesn't really break down, it's the additives in it that do. But as was already stated, this discussion can be had elsewhere. Yes, 10w30 will work in Florida or anywhere else for that matter. But in the end the 0w20 and 5w20 will afford the most protection and least wear for your engine, regardless of outside ambient temperatures.

  13. #12
    Senior Member Airmcnair's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KEKinSTL View Post
    WOW, 0W20. Haven't seen that on the shelf.
    Sometimes I need to ask for 5W20. Don't know if it is in such demand or they don't stock it 'cause it's new (meaning only the last 5 years or so).
    I'll watch for the Zero. Should we ask Hyundai if it's OK. They have everything else
    fixed, right?
    Ford/lincoln/mercury and Honda/Acura started using in 2001, then Kia/Hyundai in 2007(ish), all of which still recommend 5w20 for most of their motors. Toyota used 5w20 2007(ish) - 2010. And now all of their vehicles require 0w20. I think even Subaru jumped on that boat; 2012 Subaru is now 0w20.


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    i just did my first oil change over the weekend. i went with royal puple 5-20. it was only $1 a quart more than most other oils. on my way to work i noticed about a 2 mpg gain. this is what the highly acurate eco coach told me.

  15. #14
    Senior Member XanRules's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by GreyGhost12 View Post
    I'm sure I'll get flamed for this but this is the internet afterall. I don't believe a lot of what is posted on bobistheoilguy.com. There are lots of truths over there and lots of non-truths at the same time. Without any personal experience on the subjects, how are YOU going to know who or what to believe? I'm going from my past 25 years of experience around cars and what works for me. I will say that most people don't understand the designations of oil and how it works. Typically if you need to go to a "thicker oil" it's time for a rebuild. Also, oil doesn't really break down, it's the additives in it that do. But as was already stated, this discussion can be had elsewhere. Yes, 10w30 will work in Florida or anywhere else for that matter. But in the end the 0w20 and 5w20 will afford the most protection and least wear for your engine, regardless of outside ambient temperatures.
    There are quite a few tribologists, chemists, etc on that website - there's a reason the website has the level of respect that it does.
    Stop PM'ing me, I already answered all your questions.

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    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    XanRules: I understand what you're saying, believe me I do. But even a decade ago when they were saying Mobil 1 is the best, blah, blah, blah, I got turned away from that sight back then. Maybe things have changed with Mobil 1 since then but it was HORRIBLE back then. I have personal proof attesting to that. So do countless friends that are mechanically inclined and drive their cars hard like I have been known to do. I've seen the threads about having the junk left in the bottom of the jug or bottles when you pour it out and they say that's never happened. And if you had thought it was an issue to bring it back to where you purchased it and they'd take care of you. Well, that's kind of hard to do once you've already poured the oil into your engine now isn't it? I would always wonder why only Mobil 1 would have that stuff left behind in the bottle. Surely you don't have to shake oil before using it. To me, something was wrong with the formula for particles to settle out like that. The amount of consumption of Mobil 1 when driving hard was addressed and they all chimed in and basically said that doesn't happen. I've got to laugh at that too because my GSR would drink 2 quarts of Mobil 1 in an hour driving from 6-10k rpm continually. If I ran Castrol Syntec it might use a few ounces of oil. Using a few ounces is acceptable, using 2 quarts isn't, sorry. So what does that tell me? It tells me Mobil 1 isn't designed for a high rpm engine since it flashes and vaporizes WAY too much. I don't want to thread jack but I'm just saying Mobil 1 is a lot like Goodyear tires, they have all kinds of advertising and are NOT as good as they claim. I'm intelligent enough to know better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GreyGhost12 View Post
    I've seen the threads about having the junk left in the bottom of the jug or bottles when you pour it out and they say that's never happened. And if you had thought it was an issue to bring it back to where you purchased it and they'd take care of you. Well, that's kind of hard to do once you've already poured the oil into your engine now isn't it? I would always wonder why only Mobil 1 would have that stuff left behind in the bottle. Surely you don't have to shake oil before using it. To me, something was wrong with the formula for particles to settle out like that. The amount of consumption of Mobil 1 when driving hard was addressed and they all chimed in and basically said that doesn't happen. I've got to laugh at that too because my GSR would drink 2 quarts of Mobil 1 in an hour driving from 6-10k rpm continually. If I ran Castrol Syntec it might use a few ounces of oil. Using a few ounces is acceptable, using 2 quarts isn't, sorry.
    I can't speak to running an engine at 6k-10kRPM for an hour, but I've been using Mobil 1 since 2001 in three different vehicles. I never had anything left at the bottom of the jugs, and never saw inordinate oil consumption. (Less than a quart between changes.) Never had any issues with the motors, with one (2000 Grand Prix GT) going up to about 260k miles the last I heard. (Gave it to a cousin in 2007 at 180k miles, still running strong at that point.) The other two have 120k and 150k miles, no issues. (The latter traded towards my V, the former to be traded when my wife's arrives.)

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    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    All I'm saying is I'm hoping they changed the formula since that time frame. I haven't used Mobil 1 since then. I will say there is a lot of documentation (on line) that while the Mobil 1 is EXCELLENT at protection on rolling surfaces it has a lot to be desired with protection on sliding surfaces. Well the highest wear points in an ICE are with sliding surfaces (rings, cams, valves). I used to always have a lot of magnetic sludge on my drain plug with the Mobil 1 and only trace amounts on the plug with the Castrol. Perhaps Mobil 1 has changed and for everyone's sake that uses it I hope so. But I'm not willing to try it again and find out incorrectly.

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    Oh, they may have changed/improved/corrected it, that has just been my experience with it. I've never heard of the Bob The Oil Guy site before, so I don't know anything about the arguments for/against Mobil 1. It was recommended to my by a few mechanics I know (and trust, more importantly, lol) back then, when I started driving close to or over 100 miles per day on average. I switched to synthetic because I got tired of changing my oil every 4-6 weeks.

  20. #19
    Senior Member GreyGhost12's Avatar
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    Yes, it's certainly true, a synthetic is far better than conventional oil and can go much further between changes. When I switch to synthectic in my vehicles I normally go 6-9k on a change depending on how dark the oil looks. I always change the filter every 3k and top off on a oil change interval longer than 3k miles.

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    Regardless of anyone's opinion of Mobile1 Pro or Con, if you have not read the through the oil university article you should, it will help you understand what is really going on with motor oil and the nomenclature.
    Motor Oil 101 - Bob is the Oil Guy
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