Need advice- New Subs and Amp

[tlyons1022]

So, I've decided to install subs in my V. I wanted opinions on what I'm doing, as this is the first time I've done a sub install that I care about nearly as much as this one. The actual installation is not what I'm worried about. I just want advice if some of you audio geniuses can tell me whether I'm on the right track.

Here's what I'm going with
(2) Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD4-12 Shallowmount 4-Ohm DVC Subwoofers
A Rockford Fosgate Prime R750-1D that'll be running the two subs @ 1Ohm
A DB Link 4GA wiring kit (in blue, I'm effing picky lol)
A Lanzar 3 farad capacitor (Blue/ Silver version.. picky remember?)

I'm planning on installing amp + cap under the drivers seat, and using T-Taps to pull audio signal from the Dimension Amp under my passenger seat. RF makes a cable that converts bare wires to the RCA inputs, but I don't know if its compatible with this particular amplifier. If it isn't I'll just use a PAC SNI 35.

The box I'm planning on using will be handmade by me, a fairly simple box, triangle shaped when viewed from the side. 10" deep on the floor, and 15" high. The box will be 42" long along the face, so it'll basically fill up the gap created by the sloping seatbacks. The back of the box will slope to match the back of the seats. I want the box to be quickly removable should I need the space for something large that requires the back seats to be put down, so I was planning on installing wire terminals in the wall of the trunk and the box, so if I want the box removed I just disconnect the trunk side of the wiring, and then turn the remote wire to the amp off. (i'll have a physical switch for it inside the armrest box, along with the punch control knob)

So, that's my general plan. Any input?

[nitefury360]

loose the cap and get a real true to gauge amp kit look at knu

[tlyons1022]

loose the cap and get a real true to gauge amp kit look at knu

You have absolutely no idea what you're talking about do you? DB link has some of the best wiring kits for the cost in my opinion. By using a "to" (I'm assuming you mean "two") gauge wiring kit, it's not going to help regulate voltage after a good bass hit, our cars only have a 90-amp alternator, so keeping voltage steady can be an issue at times. Thanks for your input anyhow.

[nitefury360]

You have absolutely no idea what you're talking about do you? DB link has some of the best wiring kits for the cost in my opinion. By using a "to" (I'm assuming you mean "two") gauge wiring kit, it's not going to help regulate voltage after a good bass hit, our cars only have a 90-amp alternator, so keeping voltage steady can be an issue at times. Thanks for your input anyhow.

a cap does absolutelty nothing glad you like flashing lights and really db link is not a tru to gauge ive compared lots an lots of wire db link is garbage knu is priced well and is true to gauge you need to look at the strand count db links 1/0 has the same strand count as knus 4 gauge if you want to insult me an question my 7 years of competing and installing feel free to pm me id be more then glad to give you some real info

[Bdiggy]

^Even if you're right, your lack of capitalization and puctuation is painful, and difficult to read. Throw a period or two in there man!

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[nitefury360]

^Even if you're right, your lack of capitalization and puctuation is painful, and difficult to read. Throw a period or two in there man!

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didn't realize the Grammer patrol was here, I'm sorry it's hard to see on Mobile to see somtimes

[Bdiggy]

I hear you man. Just way easier to read and be taken seriously when it only has to be looked at once. /thread jack.

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[DCtC]

OP you need to stop listening to a salesman. If you have audio questions you need to go on audio forums. I bet everything you have in mind will be changed if you listen. And you will be way better off. Or you can get what you posted, think you have something good, go to where people really do have something good and get embarresed. Just like those kids who think Kicker is good and JL is loud

[nitefury360]

OP you need to stop listening to a salesman. If you have audio questions you need to go on audio forums. I bet everything you have in mind will be changed if you listen. And you will be way better off. Or you can get what you posted, think you have something good, go to where people really do have something good and get embarresed. Just like those kids who think Kicker is good and JL is loud

Thank you, I didn't want to take it that far I was assuming that was what he liked

[DCtC]

Thank you, I didn't want to take it that far I was assuming that was what he liked

You know I dont care if I hurt peoples feelings lol

[nitefury360]

You know I dont care if I hurt peoples feelings lol

Yes Iam aware , op I suggest you go to the car audio advice page on fb your eyes will be opened

[DCtC]

Yes Iam aware , op I suggest you go to the car audio advice page on fb your eyes will be opened

You mean car audio sundown advice?

[nitefury360]

You mean car audio sundown advice?

I know it's heavily sa now , there are a few cats on there who know what there talking about , seems like every fourm now is sa , I guess there the new fourm boner

[tlyons1022]

a cap does absolutelty nothing glad you like flashing lights and really db link is not a tru to gauge ive compared lots an lots of wire db link is garbage knu is priced well and is true to gauge you need to look at the strand count db links 1/0 has the same strand count as knus 4 gauge if you want to insult me an question my 7 years of competing and installing feel free to pm me id be more then glad to give you some real info

OK, so I'll retract my previous statement. I was a little miffed at some things going on elsewhere in life and took it out partially on you, and I do apologize about that. I have to be honest though... saying that a cap does absolutely nothing goes against everything I've ever know and practiced with car audio installs (although I only have about 10 sub installs under my belt). I can see how installing a larger gauge wire would help, but how do you solve the issue of keeping voltage steady at maximum amplifier draw? The reason that you see people whose lights dim during loud bass hits is because their amplifier is taking more current than their battery and alternator together can provide without slightly "under-currenting" the rest of the vehicle. Along with this theory, electricity will always take the path of least resistance, so if you have a 2/0 ga wire running to your amp, but just a 6 running to your fuse panel, you alt + battery will attempt to provide more power to your amp than everything else in your car.
My understanding of a capacitor is that it provides a temporary reserve of power to help lessen the impact of a large (but temporary) draw on the rest of your vehicles electrical system. I know a cap and a battery are not the same thing, but it just helps smooth out the large draws of power. I look at it as more of a preventative measure than anything else, with the V's alternator putting out a measly 90A, and the max current draw on my amplifier being 50A, that leaves only 40 for the car. Not to mention that the 90A rating is probably somewhere around 3000RPM, not at idle. 40A is not really that much, especially with some of the large amperage draw items that our cars have like the electronic power steering and the cooling fan for example. This is all just my opinion, so if you have further input, please feel free to share.

On a side note, due to a sick black friday deal, my amp has now changed to a Kicker 10DX500.1, that'll drive the speakers at 1 Ohm.

Side Note 2- I understand what you're saying about sundown audio, and yes I agree that their equipment is rather amazing. But I don't want to shell out the money for stuff like that in the car, personally I save the big bucks for the home audio that I utilize for 6+ hours/day. My home audio system would make most audiophiles cream their panties. I spend under 45 minutes a day in the V.

[sc.veloster]

For those who haven't caught on to the "knu" reference, it is for knukonceptz.com

[nitefury360]

OK, so I'll retract my previous statement. I was a little miffed at some things going on elsewhere in life and took it out partially on you, and I do apologize about that. I have to be honest though... saying that a cap does absolutely nothing goes against everything I've ever know and practiced with car audio installs (although I only have about 10 sub installs under my belt). I can see how installing a larger gauge wire would help, but how do you solve the issue of keeping voltage steady at maximum amplifier draw? The reason that you see people whose lights dim during loud bass hits is because their amplifier is taking more current than their battery and alternator together can provide without slightly "under-currenting" the rest of the vehicle. Along with this theory, electricity will always take the path of least resistance, so if you have a 2/0 ga wire running to your amp, but just a 6 running to your fuse panel, you alt + battery will attempt to provide more power to your amp than everything else in your car.
My understanding of a capacitor is that it provides a temporary reserve of power to help lessen the impact of a large (but temporary) draw on the rest of your vehicles electrical system. I know a cap and a battery are not the same thing, but it just helps smooth out the large draws of power. I look at it as more of a preventative measure than anything else, with the V's alternator putting out a measly 90A, and the max current draw on my amplifier being 50A, that leaves only 40 for the car. Not to mention that the 90A rating is probably somewhere around 3000RPM, not at idle. 40A is not really that much, especially with some of the large amperage draw items that our cars have like the electronic power steering and the cooling fan for example. This is all just my opinion, so if you have further input, please feel free to share.

On a side note, due to a sick black friday deal, my amp has now changed to a Kicker 10DX500.1, that'll drive the speakers at 1 Ohm.

Side Note 2- I understand what you're saying about sundown audio, and yes I agree that their equipment is rather amazing. But I don't want to shell out the money for stuff like that in the car, personally I save the big bucks for the home audio that I utilize for 6+ hours/day. My home audio system would make most audiophiles cream their panties. I spend under 45 minutes a day in the V.

you did not even read anything i posted...., my ref to sundown was about the face book car audio advice page , i never said 2 gauge I SAID TRUE TO GAUGE , meaning your dblink is not actually 4 gauge get real TRUE TO GAUGE 4 GAUGE wire like stinger ,knu ,shok etc a cap does nothing just adds another load to your current draw etc, a ho alt and a car audio batt is better $ spent then a cap, the larger wire you run the less ressitance you have . i suggest you do the big 3 and use proper wireing , im aware of the vs alt your 50 a raiting is so so you have to take into account of voltage drop etc, you need to sit back an reserch and listen to others before jumping on some one you have a lot misguided information

[tlyons1022]

I have to be honest here, my wife is a 4th grade teacher and I've read better grammar from her students then you. I'm not saying that to be rude, I'm using it as an example because when your type "true to gauge" with the rest of your grammar issues, I have to assume you mean "True Two Gauge". It causes issues there bud, I'm sorry about the confusion. I get what you're saying about a H.O alternator and a good battery. I already have the big three done with 0ga aircraft wire, and I have an Optima Yellowtop. You need to understand that I don't want to spend hundreds of dollars to put a H.O alternator in the V, because this is a daily driver. My cavalier is capable of 134dB at 40hz, with no light dimming at idle because of the H.O alt and other work that I personally put into that car. I didn't pay someone to do it for me. I just don't want that in my V. It's a daily driver. And more than that, it's about to become my wife's daily driver. I'm simply asking for Veloster specific help with installing a 500W RMS amplifier into the car. I shouldn't need a H.O alt for that now should I?


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[nitefury360]

you sir are a pile of ****. i used the ho as a ref. grammar its a fourm get used to it. talking to you is like talking to a wall. this thread you have not listened to anything any one has said you are rather rude. I do not car about your cavalier that is nothing impressive. now go crawl in a ****ing hole and stay there.

ps im using a ****ing 3" screen gl luck with your ****** install

[tlyons1022]

Look dude, I'm not trying to be rude, I'm trying to explain why the correct use of grammar can save a lot of ass pain. Half the reason I thought you had no idea what you were talking about is the way you came off was one of the millions of people who just throws crap into their car to be loud with no regard to "the proper way" of doing things. I now understand you are not one of those people, and I'm trying to get you to understand is that I am not one of those people either. I understand what you are saying about "true to gauge" and all that. I'm not trying to be an *******, and I'm hoping to patch things up because I would really appreciate your input on doing a relatively low power install, which is something I am unfamiliar with. That's all I was trying to exemplify with my cavalier, I'm not trying to brag about it. Hell that car is a complete piece of **** in everything except the engine and audio categories lol. Just an example man, like your example of the H.O alt. So, what I'm trying to say I that if I came off as an ******* I apologize. So, in the future I'll try to be a little more open rather than assuming that you're some dumbass kid. Can we please be at Peace? I'd really like your input on this install as you seem to know what you're doing. I was just a little confused as to why you were suggesting a H.O alt for a 500W amplifier. Hope this clears things up, I'm really a pretty easygoing guy, and I'd rather have friends than enemies. I think that my smartass comments just set us off on the wrong foot.


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[Maximum]

Well that escalated quickly.

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