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Thread: Hid light relay buzz fix

  1. #1
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    Thumbs up Hid light relay buzz fix

    For all you out there wondering about how to install the hid lights in the v and do it the right way, there is a lot of discussion on here already about how to do it. For all you that have a buzzing sound coming from your newly installed, this will fix your problem. Below is a picture of a 470uf capacitor that will between the two connections in your relay/wire harness. The capacitor can be bought at your local radio shack for less then $2.


    Name:  Screen Shot 2012-11-05 at 10.08.35 PM.png
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    Youtube:
    11min in will give you a clear picture of how it will be installed.

    Hope this will help you guys!

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  3. #2
    Senior Member 1.6 T-GDI's Avatar
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    What kit do you have? I tried this but my HIDs would not come on after install.
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  4. #3
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    . I bought the kit from diode dynamics. Make your u have the leads hooked up right and the wires not crossed

  5. #4
    Senior Member 1.6 T-GDI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matthewfickett View Post
    . I bought the kit from diode dynamics. Make your u have the leads hooked up right and the wires not crossed
    Everything was hooked up correctly. Do you think the current needs to build up? After I took the capacitor back out, my lights still wouldn't come on until a few minutes later. It's like they need to charge up or something.
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  6. #5
    Senior Member hornytoad's Avatar
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    1.6T... are you using a relay kit? if so, how is it wired up? if you can get some pics, I might be able to help you.
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  7. #6
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    It sounds like something is off... they should turn on and off when you switch it and it should me instant.

  8. #7
    Senior Member 1.6 T-GDI's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by matthewfickett View Post
    It sounds like something is off... they should turn on and off when you switch it and it should me instant.
    Your Veloster isn't a VT. Does the NAV use the pulse width modulation as well?
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  9. #8
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    pulse what?

  10. #9
    Senior Member 1.6 T-GDI's Avatar
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    The VT has pulse width modulation for the stock halogen bulbs... it's what causes our relays to buzz. It sends pulses of energy to the stock bulbs so they last longer. The buzzing is our relay clicking on and off fast. I haven't heard of it on the NAV yet and I'm wondering if it's something unique to the VT since we have different sized halogen bulbs that come stock. That might be the difference as to why my lights don't come on with the capacitor for some reason.
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  11. #10
    Senior Member 1.6 T-GDI's Avatar
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    Ok well I tried putting the capacitor back in with the new relay and it works so far!! Not sure if the relay I got from DD was crappy or not, but I'm very happy now. Lights came on like normal and no buzzing.
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  12. #11
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    My relay looks a lot different than that. Mine is from the retrofit source and looks like this:
    Name:  Morimoto H7 Relay Wire Harness-5l.jpg
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    Do I need two capacitors?

  13. #12
    Senior Member SkyriderAR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Memphis View Post
    My relay looks a lot different than that. Mine is from the retrofit source and looks like this:
    Attachment 11921

    Do I need two capacitors?
    If you are getting relay buzzing, then yes.
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  14. #13
    Senior Member Aays06's Avatar
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    So is this problem related to the headlights themselves or the vt turbo wiring. I have a. Na with turbo headlights. Does anyone know if its a feature just for the turbo itself or is it in the headlights themselves.

  15. #14
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    Ok i am having the same problem that 1.6 gdi was having. i put the capacitors in and my lights would not come on. i just slid the capacitor into the slots and plugged it all back in. is that right?

  16. #15
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    I hate this crap. Does anyone know if dd kit cancelors work? Plug and play would be nice.

  17. #16
    Senior Member gregrjohnson's Avatar
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    I have a set of cancelors that are plug and play ill see to ya


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  18. #17
    Senior Member Aays06's Avatar
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    Is it just these dd kits causing all the problems? Do other brands have problems?
    Last edited by Aays06; 01-16-2013 at 02:05 PM.

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    I've got a Morimoto set from TheRetrofitSource.com, with Morimoto H11 bulb (not H11B but works perfectly), Morimoto 3Five ballast, and Morimoto CANbus stand alone harness (no relay harness, plugs straight into the power source from the headlight). So far so good.

    No return wire shadow.
    No relay, thus no relay buzz.
    No TPMS error after 25 minutes of operation with lights on.

    Based on my experience, if you install without relay and without CANbus harness, the end result is once the car's started the lights will flicker out. With only the relay, the relay will BUZZ because the CANbus is sending signals to the headlight that pulses at a relatively high frequency, causing the relay to rapidly open and shut. Relay with capacitor fixes the problem, but an unshielded ballast can cause TPMS errors after the light has been on for more than 25 minutes.

    The BEST solution is a stand alone CANbus harness, since the headlight connection is capable of sending enough current to drive the light. A relay harness is not needed. In combination with a shielded ballast then the system works just fine.

  20. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by The HACK View Post
    I've got a Morimoto set from TheRetrofitSource.com, with Morimoto H11 bulb (not H11B but works perfectly), Morimoto 3Five ballast, and Morimoto CANbus stand alone harness (no relay harness, plugs straight into the power source from the headlight). So far so good.

    No return wire shadow.
    No relay, thus no relay buzz.
    No TPMS error after 25 minutes of operation with lights on.

    Based on my experience, if you install without relay and without CANbus harness, the end result is once the car's started the lights will flicker out. With only the relay, the relay will BUZZ because the CANbus is sending signals to the headlight that pulses at a relatively high frequency, causing the relay to rapidly open and shut. Relay with capacitor fixes the problem, but an unshielded ballast can cause TPMS errors after the light has been on for more than 25 minutes.

    The BEST solution is a stand alone CANbus harness, since the headlight connection is capable of sending enough current to drive the light. A relay harness is not needed. In combination with a shielded ballast then the system works just fine.
    Thanks for the input. Looking at getting HIDs soon but all this buzzing/capacitor stuff makes me think twice. Morimoto is legit. Had a whole retrofit on my old Stang and never had any issues.

  21. #20
    Senior Member zaksaid's Avatar
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    Do you guys know if we need to do this for HID fogs as well?

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